2 welding projects, need advice

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This first project is my fathers utility trailer.  He bought it from a neighbor for $200 and it seemed like a good deal.  When he asked me to clean it up and paint it for him I found a problem with the design of the spring hangers.  You can see in the pictures that the hangers are not centered on the angle.  The hanger on the right side has broken the 1/3 of the area around the weld.  Could this be a problem from overheating the metal surrounding the weld since the weld itself is not broken?  Specifically, my question is this; How would you repair this?  Cut the hangers off and weld something into place wide enough to allow the hangers to be placed in the current location or cut the axle mounts off, weld the hangers into place in the middle of the angle and then reweld the mounts on the axle?  Any ideas would be appreciated. Attached Images
Reply:Just reweld, top and bottom. Better if you can v it out with a grinder, you could reinforce it a little.past work toys; lathes,mills, drills, saws,  robots, lasers ironworker, shears, brake, press, grinders, tensile tester,  torches, tigs, migs, sticks, platten table, positioner,  plasmas , gleeble and spot. Retired June 30, 2009.
Reply:Project #2 is on my 3 point hitch on my John Deere Garden Tractor.  I've got this irrational love of old Lawn and Garden Tractors and I found this one for a steal so i bought it and have been slowly stripping it down to various projects.  I'm going to remove it so I can finish stripping the frame so I can have it blasted and painted but I found a broken weld that I'm pretty puzzled over.  Somehow, the 3pt was used in a manner that caused a circular break in the weld on the top link on the right side.  What would you suggest for repair? Attached Images
Reply:If it was mine, I'd grind out the welds and run LH around the hangers and call it good. Of course I'd keep an eye on it too. But...not knowing what your equipment consists of, MIG welders would MIG it, fluxcore welders would use their stuff, etc. You can rebuild it if you'd rather, but I really don't see that much of a problem. You'll get more and different opinions here, too.2nd project, more of the same. What you have in both cases is just normal wear an tear. V it out with a grinder and run a pass of LH, again. I weld with stick, in case you haven't figured that out. LH 7018 fixes most anything needs fixing in the cases presented. MIG or fluxcore will work too.Last edited by gizzardgutz; 05-15-2009 at 07:28 PM.Reason: addOnly when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.                                         -Cree Indian ProverbSA 200 LincolnVictor Torches
Reply:I've got a lincoln AC buzzbox so I guess I'll be stickin it.  By the way, what is LH?
Reply:LH is 7018 low hydrogen rod which is DC only, but since you have an AC machine ask for 7018 AC rod.                              MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:I might take a hard look at the welds holding that tube for the trailer tongue to the angle.
Reply:I ain't a trailer guy, but...........Never seen but maybe 2 or three that I thought were built rightYou will keep breaking the angle where the hanger is located.  It's nowhere near the web.  It's cantilevered on the end of the angle.  At least one edge of the hanger should be on the web.Pic one.........what ya got.  all leverage outside of the strong zone.  It's just depending on the long edge of the angle to support itPic two...........  where it should be. at least the outside edge is tucked right under the webIf you don't have a choice because of axle/spring/pad width......... grind the welds off the hanger, drop it, and place a 1/2 -3/4 piece of flat under it,  the piece of flat welded to existing angle extending to edge.  Six inches longer front to back of trailer.  At least it's gonna give some support.  Essentially your putting a 2 or 3" by 6" pad under the hanger attached to the web.  It might be your only alternative.  Where it cracked tells you how it cracked, and why.  An angle brace would be nice if you have the clearance, and the room Attached Images"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:I would recognize that 3 point anywhere, that is a John deere 318!By the look of the picture, I would say an early model, 84, 85 or 86I recognize it because I make those 3 point hitches for the John Deere 316 "with Onan" 318, 330, 332, 420 and 430 tractors.That break sure doesn't look right, I can't give you an answer as to its whys or wherefores though!What doesn't make any sense is, that part attaches to a rod that goes forward to a cam that lifts and lowers the mowing deck, it isn't ever under any great deal of stress, very little as a matter of fact.Puzzling to say the least! Attached ImagesLast edited by Ken Dennis; 05-16-2009 at 02:24 AM.#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:(Without the body on it, but with the seat, that would make a cool racing lawnmower ...)On the trailer, heat, bend, re-weld, reinforce.Last edited by SpyGuy; 05-16-2009 at 03:02 AM.
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammI ain't a trailer guy, but...........Never seen but maybe 2 or three that I thought were built rightYou will keep breaking the angle where the hanger is located.  It's nowhere near the web.  It's cantilevered on the end of the angle.  At least one edge of the hanger should be on the web.Pic one.........what ya got.  all leverage outside of the strong zone.  It's just depending on the long edge of the angle to support itPic two...........  where it should be. at least the outside edge is tucked right under the webIf you don't have a choice because of axle/spring/pad width......... grind the welds off the hanger, drop it, and place a 1/2 -3/4 piece of flat under it,  the piece of flat welded to existing angle extending to edge.  Six inches longer front to back of trailer.  At least it's gonna give some support.  Essentially your putting a 2 or 3" by 6" pad under the hanger attached to the web.  It might be your only alternative.  Where it cracked tells you how it cracked, and why.  An angle brace would be nice if you have the clearance, and the room
Reply:mla2ofus, thanks.sparkyman, the welds look good on the tongue, at least there don't appear to be any cracks or visible stresses, do you suggest that the design looks improper?  How might you strengthen?Farmersamm, thanks, especially for the drawing, pictures worth a thousand words and all that ya know?  I take it from the context that the "web" is the corner of the angle where the two sides come together?  I'm not properly versed in the welder speak so sometimes I'll ask some dumb questions, I mean, just look at my avatar. Ken Dennis, I think I've seen your work in the classifieds over on WFM.  I'm jimbo, this is my thread over there;http://www.weekendfreedommachines.co...tml?1242544466Nice looking stuff you've got there, I might just be in the market for some as my cousin just gave me a beautiful 81 Case 224 L&G Tractor that has the sleeve hitch and a very nice Brinly single bottom plow that I'll probably want to convert for use on the 3pt on my JD 318.  I'm thinking about setting the 318 up for gardening and yard maintenance and using the Case for mowing.  P.S. don't tell the guys over at WFM that I love Case's just as much as I love JD's spyguy, Nah, the JD L&G's are waaaayyyyy too heavy for racing, but they are the bomb when it comes to doing heavy lifting chores.roadkillbob, I'm not sure I understand your post.Thanks for the replies.Jimbo
Reply:Originally Posted by locomoconomomla2ofus, thanks.sparkyman, the welds look good on the tongue, at least there don't appear to be any cracks or visible stresses, do you suggest that the design looks improper?  How might you strengthen?Farmersamm, thanks, especially for the drawing, pictures worth a thousand words and all that ya know?  I take it from the context that the "web" is the corner of the angle where the two sides come together?  I'm not properly versed in the welder speak so sometimes I'll ask some dumb questions, I mean, just look at my avatar. Ken Dennis, I think I've seen your work in the classifieds over on WFM.  I'm jimbo, this is my thread over there;http://www.weekendfreedommachines.co...tml?1242544466Nice looking stuff you've got there, I might just be in the market for some as my cousin just gave me a beautiful 81 Case 224 L&G Tractor that has the sleeve hitch and a very nice Brinly single bottom plow that I'll probably want to convert for use on the 3pt on my JD 318.  I'm thinking about setting the 318 up for gardening and yard maintenance and using the Case for mowing.  P.S. don't tell the guys over at WFM that I love Case's just as much as I love JD's spyguy, Nah, the JD L&G's are waaaayyyyy too heavy for racing, but they are the bomb when it comes to doing heavy lifting chores.roadkillbob, I'm not sure I understand your post.Thanks for the replies.Jimbo
Reply:Thanks Jimbo!Yes, I recognize that 318 now!I just missed out on another 1990 318 a guy was selling for $800.00. The web is the area that is the thickest at the juncture of the angle!Where that shackle mount is placed, like I said before on your other thread about this, it is welded to the weakest part of the angle, and will most likely just break again with the side to side shifting forces of the axles, sort of like bending a coat hanger back and forth to break it!Gussets would help, so would cutting those mounts off and adding another piece of metal to the angle and then add the gussets!Once you get your 318 up and going, and you need some parts for the hitch, or you want to add that A-Frame with one of my patent pending, specially made, Brinly sleeve hitch plow to 3 point adapters,  just let me know!Don't worry!I wont say anything. Ken.#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:RoadKill, now THAT'S WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT!!  I can see where that would help considerably.  Thanks.Ken, $800 for a nice late model 318?  Man I'd love another one, but I'm afraid my wife will want a divorce, hahahah.  Actually, if I could find a clean 332 I'd take the risk. After the 332 I want a 110RF hydraulic and a nice Case 444,446 or 448, or all 3 would be good too.  The 448 has the same Onan engine as we are so familiar with and the 444 has the most excellent Kohler 321.I guess I can now add "web" to my welding vernacular, thanks.I've got to get this project done so my dad can pick up my Case when he goes back to our cabin in WVa.-Jimbo
Reply:I sold my 1967 112rf and my 1970 110m.what I want is another 318, mine is a 1990 and I would like another about the same year, and a 420, I would keep my 318 as is to be a dedicated mowing and snow pusher with my blade, another 318 to add a front end loader and rear grader blade onto and a 420 for gardening, various work and as an all else tractor.Of course, I would make all the attachments for them myself! #1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!