Help finding materials to build horse stalls

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Hello,We just put up a pole barn and now the wife thinks the horses need stalls inside.  After pricing them I think we can make them cheaper.  I'm not much of a welder, but my father-in-law is a retired fab shop welder so he has the skill and the time.  Anyway, the design we like uses a base of "u channel" that 2x lumber slides into w/ tubing up above for the bars.  The attached pic is similar to what we're looking at. Anyway, I can't seem to find that channel anywhere, the only thing off the shelf I can find is 2x1x3/16" so it's about the perfect width w/ just a little play, but the sides aren't long enough - every supplier I've talked to says 2" sides would have to be custom formed.  Is that the case or am I just not looking in the right place?  I suppose we could use 2 pieces of angle iron to make the channel but that seems like a waste.  Anybody know if something like that is available off the shelf or have any other ideas?Thanks! Attached Images
Reply:How about using a piece of angle and a flat bar. BOLTING them together with the wood between .. It seems to me that you will need some way to put wood in AFTER welding, and to be able to take it out to replace . . .-- fredLincoln 180C MIG
Reply:Take a 2x1/4 wall square tube and cut one side off of it.  Then you have a 2"  "U" like you want.  i havedone this at times for similar projects.I'm a Lover, Fighter, Wild horse Rider, and a pretty good welding man......
Reply:Originally Posted by Hammack_WeldingTake a 2x1/4 wall square tube and cut one side off of it.  Then you have a 2"  "U" like you want.  i havedone this at times for similar projects.
Reply:Originally Posted by fredfHow about using a piece of angle and a flat bar. BOLTING them together with the wood between .. It seems to me that you will need some way to put wood in AFTER welding, and to be able to take it out to replace . . .
Reply:I'm curious to see what you come up with. One of my customers has a barn with several horses and one of the boarders wants to change the stall arrangements around. The owners wife wants a sliding gate arrangement if they make the changes.I told them to get me picts or show me what they want and I'll work up a price. Your picts are similar to what I saw years ago in another barn, but most that I have looked at recently just use straps to close off the stall. Any other picts you might have would be appreciated or where I might find some. Thanks.
Reply:Googleor Google images- Horse stallReading up on them  seems like  12g and 14gEd Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:How about 2000 feet  ?This is just a starting point, but looks like you can get just about anything you want.http://www.johnsonrollforming.com/di.../A1/category/2
Reply:Thanks everyone!  I was trying to avoid cutting any tubing or anything like that.  I like the idea of using flat strap and angle iron and bolting the whole thing, but I'm concerned about the wood splitting, I would rather have it free floating so it can expand and contract freely.  That would be the easiest option though if I can't find any channel.  And yes, typically one side is left open to slide the wood in...it varies w/ the design but i've seen the top that bolts onto the bottom, as well as a side that's left open. The commercial ones aren't very heavy at all, anywhere from 1/8" to 3/16", and I don't want it too heavy either, I'd like to be able to move them by hand!  I'm not in a very big city though so none of the machine shops have the equipment to bend them.  There is a loader manufacturing place though, I wonder if they have a brake that big...might be worth a phone call.  I checked w/ a metal supplier in the state who forms things and they wouldn't even mess w/ setting it up for less than 1,000 feet!  I only need about 150.I'm sure it will be a few weeks before we get anything decided, let alone started but I'll keep you posted!DSW - I've got quite a few pictures and brochures, send me a message and I'll help however I can.Last edited by Maverick22; 05-29-2009 at 09:54 AM.Reason: Forgot to mention something
Reply:IMHO, there isn't a commercially made piece of livestock equipment made that is adequately built.  All light gauge crap.  Still sells for high bucks.Take for example round bale feeders.  Most are so light that the cows tear 'em up in a week.  14ga material  Pure unadulterated garbage, and around 200 bucks a pop.Build heavier than what you see listed in manufacturers specs.  You're doing it yourself, and you can spend more on materials because the profit margin isn't built into your final price.This round bale feeder is made out of 3" channel, 2x2 11ga tubing, and 3x3 3/16 tubing, with 12ga aprons.  Ain't a bull made that can even put a dent in it.  Cost around 600 give or take when the price of steel was high, cost now around 300 give or take.Sorry about the skin, it's one of my internet babe intro pics  (might be why I'm scarin' 'em off)BUILD HEAVY IF IT'S LIVESTOCK STUFF!!!!!!! Attached Images"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Duane's oilin' up the finger joints, hoverin' over the keyboard, and gettin' ready to let fly"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:If you're in oilfield country, get some used sucker rod.  It can be used for the vertical pieces and won't cost you an arm and a leg.
Reply:I've built quite a number of horse stalls for people, but only a few like you want. Most people now are going to all metal stalls. All metal stalls don't retain urine or germs like wood. They can't be cribbed. They have much better ventilation when it's hot. Horses can't kick through them like boards, and all studies have shown they are mentally and physically healthier for the horses.That said, I've always gotten sheet metal shops to break 11 ga. into 2"x2" channels for the boards to slip into. I think it's your cheapest bet.Which ever style you go with, do build roller doors and not hinge doors. Use the rails and trucks for the doors that roll down the sides of buildings. Very strong, easy rolling doors with it. All my lady customers love them for their ease of use.If you decide to build all metal, use 1 1/2"x14ga. square tube for every thing and weld 2"x4" welded wire panels on the bottom 5' and 4"x4" for the top. You can make them in sections in a shop and put them together in the barn. I use pieces of 1/4" strap with pieces of 1" square tube welded to it and slip them in the open tops and bottoms of the panels to hold them together. Here's a picture of the all metal ones, which I highly reccommend. I don't think these stalls were finished here but you get the idea. Attached Images
Reply:Agreed with the all metal horse stalls.   with a good sub grade of #2 aggregate compacted and topped with sand then stall mats and pine shavings, epoxy coated steel lasts forever.AT min I would use 3/16" for the structural members and any attaching hardware would be 1/8"last set of stalls we built was 3" sch 40 pipe structural's with 1x1x1/4 posts between stalls set to look like a diamond from the front  and double walled with 1/8 plate on both sides of the walls.   Had revolving hay doors and spring loaded latches,  all plumbing was done from the fronts of the stalls.Vantage 500's LN-25's, VI-400's, cobramatics, Miller migs, synch 350 LX, Powcon inverters, XMT's, 250 Ton Acurrpress 12' brake, 1/4" 10' Atlantic shear,Koikie plasma table W/ esab plasmas. marvel & hyd-mech saws, pirrana & metal muncher punches.