Stick help

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I am new to welding, and even more so to stick. Well, I got my new Harbor Freight ARC 120 working and have started trying to weld some beads with 6011 and 7018 rods. The machine runs on 110V. I'm having a heck of a time getting a bead. Seems all I can do is strike the rod, get some sparks, some little trickles, then start over. Occasionally I get the rod stuck the metal resulting in a....you know....electrical short. Once I reset the breaker I start again. So, what's going in here? Do I need to get the ARC just right, where the stick is just above the the metal but not touching? How do you get that puddle? I'm welding on some sheet metal I have left over from a stove hood. I also have been practicing on an old brake drum. I could post pictures but they are pretty embarrassing as there is no actual bead.FWIW-I am enjoying this whole experience. With every mistake, I learn something new.Thank you for the help--Chris
Reply:First thing I would do is get some 6013 rod, it is wayyyy easier and makes a much nicer bead than 6011. At least from *this* beginners perspective.Sounds like you might have your current set too low. For testing I'd crank it up to near the max.Then kind of rapidly drag the electrode, at an angle, across your metal, like you are trying to light a match. At the first hint of a bzzzp sound, lift the rod off the steel by about 1/8" or so. At that point you should be melting metal and having to 'feed' the rod into your steel to keep the arc at 1/8" or so.Bottom line is you *do* need to get that arc just right.I'd also get a piece of steel like 1/8" thick or so to practice on. With sheet metal you'll have a heck of a time not blowing holes in it, once you get past the initial arc-starting challenges that you are having now.- John
Reply:What size are the rods?John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Thanks John,Seems like the more I crank, the more I trip the current, but I think this could be from holding the electrode too close to the metal, then getting it stuck.
Reply:Hey John C.,Not sure what the size is. Are there different size 7018 rods? I could check the box and let you know.Thank You
Reply:Does it trip your house breaker when it gets stuck or a breaker on the machine?You're running off 110, I believe?  Do you have a 220 outlet available at all?- John
Reply:It trips th housebreaker. Unfortunately I do not have 220 in my garage, which is why I'm stuck in this horrible dilemma. If I had 220 I could hook up the old Lincoln I have and wouldn't have to use the crappy HF unit.
Reply:Do you know what size breaker in on the circuit you are using?  I think that your machine is AC only so you should stay away from 7018, like metioned brfore 6013 is a good alternative.  6011 should run good also.
Reply:Also if it is tripping the house breaker, try to find a circuit that has little else on it, so you have most of the current available for your welder.
Reply:Originally Posted by runchmanDo you have a 220 outlet available at all?- John
Reply:You'd have to look at your breaker panel. If you have 3 big wires coming into it, and 2 vertical rows of breakers, I'd think you have 220.Not that it helps you right now
Reply:Okay - check the size, the larger the rod, the more power it's going to take to get going. Is that an AC/DC machine, what do you have it set on and are the rods AC? Sounds like you have a few minor things to sort out but once you do, you'll be on your way to striking an arc!John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Originally Posted by runchmanYou'd have to look at your breaker panel. If you have 3 big wires coming into it, and 2 vertical rows of breakers, I'd think you have 220.Not that it helps you right now
Reply:Originally Posted by MicroZoneOkay - check the size, the larger the rod, the more power it's going to take to get going. Is that an AC/DC machine, what do you have it set on and are the rods AC? Sounds like you have a few minor things to sort out but once you do, you'll be on your way to striking an arc!
Reply:What size rods are you actually using?  3/32" is a very common size and too big for your machine.I'd recommend 1/16" or 5/64" 6013 for this machine, and, well, that's about it.You should put your location in your profile.  If you were near me, we could put in a subpanel in an afternoon.
Reply:as microzone said, check your rod size.  What is the Max amp rating for the machine using 110V?  I would think that with a 110 Volt unit you are going to be limited to a 3/32" size electrode.  depending the range of current you might could reach the low end of the scale for a 1/8".  If your machine is an AC current machine then stay away from 7018, and 6010.  a good 6013 or 7014 will be easier to get the hang of in my opinion, but a 6011 is a good AC current rod none the less.  Keep trying and you'll be welding away in no time.  ~JacksonI'm a Lover, Fighter, Wild horse Rider, and a pretty good welding man......
Reply:Originally Posted by MAC702What size rods are you actually using?  3/32" is a very common size and too big for your machine.I'd recommend 1/16" or 5/64" 6013 for this machine, and, well, that's about it.You should put your location in your profile.  If you were near me, we could put in a subpanel in an afternoon.
Reply:well I see a couple post popped up while I was typing my first one, lol   after reading your info, stay away from the 1/8th rods,   I think you would be able to run a 3/32 rod.  I seldom run a 3/32"  6013 or 6011 over 100amps.I'm a Lover, Fighter, Wild horse Rider, and a pretty good welding man......
Reply:If you have a 1/16 rod, crank your dial and tap it 3 times on your metal. Make sure you have the work clamp on a clean, bare piece of the metal. Even cranked on 110v, you're at about 65amps, according to your instructions.John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:chris,i hope you dont mind me posting these couple of flat welds,my intention was to post on johns thread just to show him the importance of the thickness of the metal to be welded.john these welds were produced using 3.25 10 gauge 120 amps.the rods were 6013 .the secret here is to fuse both pipe and socket with your initial strike then welding flat onto the socket while keeping the pool between the two.its really good that you are passing on info as you are learning yourself ,you will at the end be self taught as it is so much easier when you are being shown.chris i agree about your using 6013 good luck both.alan.there were only two posts when i started typing,im a one finger man there goes another half hour. Attached ImagesLast edited by pipe fitter; 06-27-2007 at 06:00 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by pipe fitterchris,i hope you dont mind me posting these couple of flat welds,my intention was to post on johns thread just to show him the importance of the thickness of the metal to be welded.
Reply:The breaker should not trip from welding.  Sounds like you may have to much on the circuit, or too small a breaker.I'm a Lover, Fighter, Wild horse Rider, and a pretty good welding man......
Reply:3/32" 7018 and 1/8" 6010/6011 will run at about the same amperages, and both are WAY oversized for your machine.When you get new sticks, get the 1/16" or 5/64" and stay away from 7018 and 6010.Know everything that is on each circuit in your home.  If you've never mapped out your entire electrical system, you now have an excuse, even though every homeowner should do it as soon as they move in.Then, tell us what else is on the same circuit as that welding machine.  Without knowing that, we simply can't answer the question.
Reply:WOW CKosmo, a lot of great help here. Let us know when you get fixed up and going. Their isn't any advice I could add here that all ready has been posted. Good luck and have fun. Miller DVI2Lincoln Precision Tig 225Thermodynamics Cutmaster 38Everything else needed.
Reply:Originally Posted by jamlitWOW CKosmo, a lot of great help here. Let us know when you get fixed up and going. Their isn't any advice I could add here that all ready has been posted. Good luck and have fun.Originally Posted by CkosmoYour right J, there is a lot of good info here. I went and got some 3/32 6011 sticks (that was the smallest the store had on hand). They work very well. I tried to go  back to the 7018 3/32" and 6010 1/8" sticks just to see the difference. It was really difficult using those.As far as the circuit goes, the box is not well marked so I am going to take Mac's advice and map it out. I ended up moving the welder to an outlet next to the breaker box, and it works fine. I think that the distance from the box to the garage was part of the problem for this much power. I wish Mac lived closer, but if anyone knows an electrician in the Baltimore area please let me know, I'd like to get the workshop done up right.I practiced welding on an old brake disc. I can get a bead but it just sits on top of the metal, it's really not penetrating it at all. Is this because the metal is made to withstand hot temps and needs more heat or do I need to perfect my technique? My beads are literally sitting on the surface and I'm not getting a good puddle.Thank YouChris
Reply:Keep in mind the 6011 is normally a 'non-contact' rod which means you'll hold a small gap between the rod and work piece while maintaining your arc. 6011 = scratch start hold a gap. The 6013s will be 'contact' type rod which means you will hold it all but touching the work piece to actually dragging the flux on the metal. Of course a more powerful machine allows for a lot of varience and even user control over this gap-touch set of guidelines. With that small of machine I imagine you'll be more like looking for the sweet spot. Just remember those are the guidelines, non-contact/contact,  and do what ya gotta do from there.
Reply:I think a brake disk is mighty substantial stuff for your sized welder. I bet you'll have an entirely different experience once you try some more realistic sized material.Congrats on getting the beast working, I imagine that is a very big relief.- John