Newbie Needs Help With Angles On Stick Welder

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I can do moderately well on flat plates.  However, when I try to do angles or lap joints, it seems that the welding material tends to go to one side or the other.  I'm using a Lincoln AC225 w/ 6013 rods, both 3/32" & 1/8".  Today, I'm working on 1/8" plate and I've tried 75 & 90 amps.  I've tried various patterns from the Lincoln book, (I don't see how you guys can do all those weird patterns).  With the slag on the weld, it looks like the joint is well covered.  When I clean the slag off, it appears that the rod metal has gone to one side or the other, with a gap in the middle.  I'm not using any magnets or anything.How clean does the material have to be, and could this be contributing to my problem?  Thanks!
Reply:More heat.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Also, start your puddle and concentrate your arc on the heaviest part.  If you don't see the puddle bridging, then it won't be bridged when you finish.The heaviest part is usually the non-edge part.I can't say anything about more heat.  I use 3/32 6013 rod at 80 amps or 65 amps.  I depends on where I weld. I discovered the other the other night that inside my shop with a 10g cord  15ftI run at 65 amps on 1/16" steel.  Outside on 12g cord 100ft I run at 80 amps.
Reply:I tried 105 amps, but was having trouble with burn-thru.  Was I going too slow?
Reply:Good fitup will help.  Also, in a lap joint, try to burn a little of the top plate so it melts with the puddle which is on the bottom plate.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Make sure that you're seeing the puddle flow into both pieces and not just the flux flowing over both pieces. Some of these welds can be done with stringer beads but sooner or later you're going to have to find a weave pattern that works for you. Lots of practice and maintianing consistantcy is the key.
Reply:Originally Posted by tresiMake sure that you're seeing the puddle flow into both pieces and not just the flux flowing over both pieces. Some of these welds can be done with stringer beads but sooner or later you're going to have to find a weave pattern that works for you. Lots of practice and maintianing consistantcy is the key.
Reply:I agree one of the toughest things for newbies to learn is to watch the molten steel, not the flux.  Try starting a good puddle and then drag your rod over so you wash the puddle into the other piece, and continue to weave and watch for the edge of the piece to melt.  When you learn to distinguish the fulx from the puddle you will be well on your way.I'm a Lover, Fighter, Wild horse Rider, and a pretty good welding man......
Reply:It is hard to diagnose without seeing your weld.  Novices often hold too long an arc.  1/8th  e 6013 could be used easily with 125 amps.  Your rod should be angles at 45 degrees to the corner of your lap joint. It should be tilted about ten degrees toward the direction of travel so that the electrode holder is ahead of the tip of your rod.  You can tilt over as much as 45 degrees but it is not recommended.  Once the electrode tip is hot you should be able touch the electrode onto the metal so that the flux is resting on the parent metal as the arc is burning.  Once you have a puddle with molten metal piling up behind the tilted rod you can move slightly forward or side to side to widen the puddle.  The rod should have the flux touching to a maximum gap of 3/16th.   1/8th is ideal.   With thin material the trick is to keep a tight arc and move quickly exactly on the joint.  Hesitate and you melt through.