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I have a question which I hope isn't too stupid. I bought a Lincoln Electric Handy MIG Welder and it has been fine, I'm learning to weld with it, something has me confused. I'm trying to restore a 1966 Impala, and I was working on that little shelf where your rear speakers go, I cut out a rusty piece and used a metal break to weld back in some clean steel (20 gauge). It turned out near perfect for my first try on the actual car. I had two huge sections of old floor pans I had practiced on for a while. The settings for 20 gauge said on the "low / high" to use low, on the switch with "1 / 2 " use 1, and wire feed speed at 5. These settings were on the inside of the welder on a chart.After repairing the whole shelf I then decided to repair the rear windshield channel. The 90 degree slot the rear window sets in had some small pinholes and the corners were (are still) rotted out. The pinholes were about the size of a small finishing nail and maybe 1 here and there, not close together at all. I ground out around them and the metal was still thick and solid. I took a Dremel and a small grinding tip and ground a hole out to about the size of a ball point pen.I figured I could just fill the hole in with a weld. However it kept burning through. I tried another pinhole and didn't grind it out, this one also burnt through. I tested a spot with no pinhole, and that burnt through.I look in the manual and it specifies " on the "low / high" to use low, on the switch with "1 / 2 " use 1, and wire feed speed at 3." Why do the welder's chart and the manual have different settings? Why would it burn through on the window channel's 20 gauge (checked with sheet metal gauge) and not burn through on the rear seat shelf 20 gauge with the same settings, stickout, angle, etc. I had orignally tried practicing with the wire speed of 3 and it kept sputtering or sticking to the metal.
Reply:sorry, didn't read carefullyLast edited by wirehead; 10-03-2011 at 10:45 AM.
Reply:first off, the charts are ball park. may need to adjust the numbers a little bit. and to fill pinholes you probly want to turn the heat down from what the chart says and just hit the trigger real fast. dont hold it on for to long. just bump it and see what it does.
Reply:I tried the "ask the expert" part on Lincoln's site to find out about the 2 different charts.The procedural chart that is inside the operators manual was changed when the Handy Mig changed code numbers. The operators manual cover both code 10919 and 11205. If you have a code 11205 you should have the same chart on the inside of your machine. A code 10919 may be different. The wire feed value given is a starting reference and may have to changed for your welding needs. That was their reply. I tried 3 on wirefeed yesterday. It did burn, but it was very minimal. Like you said, I tried just bumping the trigger and it helped a lot. I didn't get to grind the weld bead down to inspect the work due to not being able to hold the angle grinder (because I had ground my finger to the bone in one spot...long story). I could see a big difference though in the way it was easier to fill with it at 3. I''m still learning sadly, so I'm hesitant to play with settings a lot. I'm not sure why really. Thanks for the tip about bumping the trigger. Turning the speed down and tapping the trigger helped a lot. I had been welding in pieces by tacking them in until I had a solid line of tacks and hadn't done much filling with the speed on 5.
Reply:Originally Posted by trickysparkI''m still learning sadly, so I'm hesitant to play with settings a lot. I'm not sure why really.
Reply:do all changes and experiments on test metal or sracp of same thickness before the real jobidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tigidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tig #2 used for sticklincoln sp100hh125dual arbor grinder polisher30 yrs of hand tools52 pitch blocks 6p-26prake gauge -pitch gaugeG&D prop repair 918-207-6938Hulbert,okla 74441 |
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发表于 2021-9-1 00:08:26