Welder Choice: Kit Car

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I've read the Faq on welder choices, and the links I saw were mostly related to motorcycles, or super light hobby items.I am rebuilding a couple of fiber glass kit cars from the 70's. They are very unsafe because they were all built on flat vw bug pans.I am looking to weld up a roll cage as well as add some more structural support for the fiber glass.  I do not have a shop so I would be welding out doors(so probably flux core would be the way to go). I also do not think I have access to a 220 outlet.Is this a pipe dream or is there a welder that I could pick up in the 1k or less range that would work for this grade of tube steel?Second question, another hobby of mine is making medieval armor. I'm very accomplished with a forge, but would like to learn to weld to use it as a short cut. Is there a reliable but super light welder that could get sheet metal between 16-12 gauge sheet metal?
Reply:I would look at something like the thermal arc 95s which can run on 110, and is capable of both stick and tig.Dynasty 200DXPassport plus w/ spoolmate 100victor 315c oxy/(act and prop)Miller digital elitemilwaukee power tools
Reply:Kit Car:You really should be looking at a 240v machine in the 180amp class although a 120v machine could work for most of your needs and then take the heavier stuff to a shop to get welded.Armor: Hobart Handler 140(120v)- best bang for the buck but ideally you would want a Tig machine Power: Every home has 240v- that is how it comes in to your home. Basic breakdown is that it comes in as 2 120v lines and you just use both for 240v applications.Depending on where your Service panel is and where you need the 240v receptacle is when it can get a little pricey.A good machine would be the Thermal Arc Fabricator 181ihttp://store.cyberweld.com/tharcfa18miw.htmlIt has Mig, Stick and DC Tig capabilities for your thin stock Armor needs.The Tig torch is extra though but for about a grand not a bad deal.Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:sounds like you need a TIG.   Standard racecar rules require TIG of roll cages, for good reason.   A used Syncrowave 180 or 200 would meet your needs, but might cost a bit over $1000.    A syncrowave includes stick, so you could weld thick steel.  However, a Syncrowave would require a 220V outlet, preferably 50 or 60 amps.    TIG takes a while to learn, it is generally considered the most difficult process.Personally, I would not recommend MIG on roll cages unless you are a very experienced MIG welder.   Too easy to make a bad MIG weld that looks good.If you are limited to 110V, you might be better off with a 110V Mig and then let a pro weld the roll cage and anything thicker than 14 ga.  There is one 110V MIG that uses batteries to get higher output, (180 amps) and it should be good for 1/8 inch at least.Note that wind is a concern for MIG and TIG, so you might have to fake up some kind of enclosure to weld outside.  You could use flux core wire in a MIG welder and eliminate that problem, although the results are not as pretty.My two cents.  Lets see what the pros say.RichardSculptures in copper and other metalshttp://www.fergusonsculpture.comSyncrowave 200 Millermatic 211Readywelder spoolgunHypertherm 600 plasma cutterThermal Arc GMS300 Victor OA torchHomemade Blacksmith propane forge
Reply:I would not teach yourself to weld by doing anything structural on a car, especially a cage.  The difference between a good flux core weld and a bad one is very hard to distinguish, visually.  But obviously it's very important at that moment where something has gone wrong and the cage is saving your life.  Also keep in mind that you'd need a good bender and a notch cutter.  I've been welding for years, and do a fair number of things on my track car.  But I would job out my cage if I did it today.I'd say you're fine on the armor stuff, though.   Unless there's actual battle involved.  Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:I don't think you are going to find anyone on this board that will wholeheartedly support your welding of a roll cage.  Maybe Danny can Redneck ya one together . IE a critical weld with what seems to be no experience... at best get something you can tack up the cage in position and drop off at a certified and insured welding shop to do the work.  I would seriously look at what is involved in getting a 230vac circuit where you are welding and consider a dual voltage machine that can run off 110 when needed.    I am with Jack on jobbing out the roll cage weld up.   but the guys who buy a cheap welder and build their own roll cage are the same idiots that are cruising around on their motorcycles at 75+ mph with no helmet..    We have no helmet law here in Colorado..   I do have a motorcycle license too.    skull vs asphalt at 75mph, the asphalt always wins!Tiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:About 1980 I built a MIGI II Fiberglass 1952 MGTD replica... VW pan,  doubled the pan welding it with OA...I agree with those who said farm out a roll bar..but another concern with a VW pan is finding a proper place to attach roll over protection..... What make and model  kit is it  ?Weldandpower Lincoln 225 AC,DC with Briggs 16hp gas engine.WW2 era Miller TIG.
Reply:The kit was originally a bradly, but I've totally glassed it so it looks more like this porche http://hexabites.studiodyv.com/wp-co.../07/100208.jpg.My buddy welded up a base frame of sorts out of 3/8 inch square tube steel that runs around the outline of the pan to raise the fiberglass up 3 inches, but sort of creating a seph frame. Unfortunately he isn't available any more. Anyways I was going to weld off this.
Reply:20 years ago when I first got a wirefeed welder my brother in law wanted me to fab a roll bar for his stock car.  He had all the specs and we started building.  When it was done the inspector went over it with something that looked simular to an ultrasound wand, then gave it his seal of approval.  Now that I have 20 + years with mig and 45+ with stick and OA I would not even consider building a roll bar for a car.  A Hobart Handler 110VAC can be picked up now with everything except a bottle for $475-$550.  If you V your metal you can multi pass up to 1/4"  You will run over on your duty cycle if you are not careful..I used my little welder and replaced a bunch of body panels on my sons 1972 Ford pickup 18 years ago.  On the body work close to a 100% duty cycle.
Reply:I play with a forge mostly making knives and tools.  That little Hobart I used to have did a fantastic job on 14-12 ga metal with 16 ga I had to just kinda spot weld with it.  Spot welding works well with gas shielding, not so good with flux core.
Reply:Originally Posted by vallyrI've read the Faq on welder choices, and the links I saw were mostly related to motorcycles, or super light hobby items.I am rebuilding a couple of fiber glass kit cars from the 70's. They are very unsafe because they were all built on flat vw bug pans.I am looking to weld up a roll cage as well as add some more structural support for the fiber glass.  I do not have a shop so I would be welding out doors(so probably flux core would be the way to go). I also do not think I have access to a 220 outlet.Is this a pipe dream or is there a welder that I could pick up in the 1k or less range that would work for this grade of tube steel?Second question, another hobby of mine is making medieval armor. I'm very accomplished with a forge, but would like to learn to weld to use it as a short cut. Is there a reliable but super light welder that could get sheet metal between 16-12 gauge sheet metal?