hard surfacing

admin

can someone please offer up some info on hard surfacing.now the buffer layer is that to build up a base before the hard faceing is laid on. .e.g. bulid up the whole plate with stringers then go back over with the hard faceing rods.and instead of pre heat can you use a s/s rod for dissimiler metal to stop the chance of cracking? any info woild be a big help thnx.the day you stop learning in this tradeis the day your in your grave
Reply:I am kind of confused about the question.But from what I get from it...You probably want to build up with a rod that matches the base metal then hardsurface on top.I don't know about the stainless rod, someone will probably stop by shortly to clear that up.  What is stopping you from pre/post heating?  That is an important step on many steels and shouldn't be skipped.
Reply:S S can go over steel, but NOT the opposite . if you have no torch for preheating , why not weld on the hard face , before the underlayer (build up)  cools ? usually, some cracking of the hard face happens anyway .[SIZE="5"Yardbird"
Reply:What are you hardfacing? If your building it up,run buildup beads in direction of material flow. Then run hard rod beads at 90* to material flow and space hardrod beads far enough apart so that as they wear down you can apply new ones between them. I never had much luck running hardrod vertical uphand,so I just welded "dots" spaced about 1/2"(12mm) apart when I couldn't run horizontal.                                 HTH,                                       MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:I hate hard facing rods...SS is a lot easier to use and does a ok job, BUT, if you are facing a cutter bar you will NOT be able to cut it with a torch.Me!
Reply:I'll need some more info like what you are building up, and how its used before I could feel comfortable giving an opinion.I'm a Lover, Fighter, Wild horse Rider, and a pretty good welding man......
Reply:Yeh, more info. Hard facing isn't just hardfacing. It normally isn't really practical to just butter on tons of hardfacing or spend the time doing elaborate patterns over every single square inch of huge pieces. In some soil types and/or working conditions there is often a cupping out effect (think smoke and wind tunnel) behind hardfacing beads or lineally between hardfacing beads. A buffer is just something cheaper and easier to protect the base metal from this effect. Let's just say the hardfacing is the first line of defense and takes the bulk of the beating or abrasion and the buffer is a second line of defense.
Reply:earthmoveing, buckets blades backhoes.... ect. is the buffer layer bult up  quite considerably before the hardfaceing is applyed or is it a 50/50 thingone layer of buffer and then dots or waffer or harringbone or stringers.how thick is the buffer usually.the pre heat post heat thing is not out of the question and i was told i could use a certain type of s/s rod.it can be used as a buffer sort of like a wear strip when the hard face wears down and shows the s/s it time to hard face again.the day you stop learning in this tradeis the day your in your grave
Reply:i have read info about the differnt types of use. like heavy impact or abrasion and the differnt ways of laying down the hard face for this but it has never quite told of how thick the buffer layer is.i assumed that it was a build up layer then apply the hardchit. there is a lot of earthmoveing happening around me at this point of time and more to come but next to no one doing hard surfaceing on the machinesLast edited by paretrooper; 08-23-2007 at 01:53 AM.the day you stop learning in this tradeis the day your in your grave
Reply:Originally Posted by paretrooper there is a lot of earthmoveing happening around me at this point of time and more to come but next to no one doing hard surfaceing on the machines
Reply:Try Lincoln Wearshield BU, it is a good all purpouse rod.Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:This is a photo of some hardfacing on a impact hammer after i rebuilt the front nose with 1"Ar400.This was applied with a wire feeder in the horizontal position.The wire i mostly use is Lincore 60-0 1/16DIA.Hope this helps any question? feel free to ask. Attached ImagesLast edited by admswelding; 08-24-2007 at 09:20 PM.
Reply:I always liked using Select-Arc's SelectWare series hardfacing wire.  I've used the 60HC wire before.
Reply:Okay, a question for you stick welders, and the guys who cheat and do crossover welding: I have a couple different parts that could use hardfacing on them, some chisel tips, SDS drill chisels, SDS spade bits. Can I clean off the flux, and use the tig to add hardfacing to the tips of these chisels?? They get pretty battered, and I mremake some of them, using 4340, sometimes inconel if I have some extra lying around. I would like the tips to hold up a bit longer- they get hot, then they wear fast. Can it be done? Or will there be fusing, or cracking issues?And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:Originally Posted by RojodiabloOkay, a question for you stick welders, and the guys who cheat and do crossover welding
Reply:Cracks are not a problem; http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowl...hardfacing.aspAnything worth doing is worth doing RIGHT
Reply:Originally Posted by WelderBoyWhat is crossover welding and how is it cheating?
Reply:Originally Posted by RojodiabloLike guys who will "cheat" and use mig wire with tig, or clean off stick rod and tig with it. You know... stuff someone else will tell you you can't do- even though you do it all the time.
Reply:thankyou guys for the input it has been usefullthe day you stop learning in this tradeis the day your in your grave