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Syncrowave 180SD Filler Rod / Electrode Storage

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发表于 2021-9-1 00:05:29 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
Borrowing the idea from several here on the forum, here's the beginnings of my filler rod storage for my Syncrowave 180SD.  Electrode tubes storage will follow later as that will be going on the other side.Laying out the 1" thin wall (schedule 10??) PVC tubes and fittings.  A total of 8 tubes will make up the storage 'rack'.  This will make room for the two sizes of each of two types aluminum, the mild steel and brazing rod I currently have and two left over for two sizes of SS once I get it.Tubes assembled with the total number of caps that Home Depot had on the shelf.  Lower portion of tubes are 14" long and uppers are 24" to allow the 36" long filler rods to fit nicely.  A Dremel tool with sanding drum was used to relieve the inside of the coupler on the bottom (stationary) tube to prevent the upper (cover) tube from hanging up and causing difficult removal as the storage tubes will be only 2-1/2" apart on centerlines when mounted.The four 1"x1/4" angle clips that will be the anchor points for two horizontal sections of strut channel that the tubes will be secured to using 1" strut channel pipe clamps.  As soon as I had the 1/4" pieces cut I found the piece of 1/8" I really wanted to use but seeing as they were already done I'm sticking with the 1/4".One mount clip using the existing side panel bolt hole and longer 1/4-20 bolt.  Looking for suitable material  to use to space the clips out slightly from welder.All four clips installed temporarily for strut channel fitting.  Strut channel will be TIG welded (of course!) to the mount clips prior to painting.Thanks for looking and more later today as we progress.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Looking good there Duane. So, let's see if I've got it right?The lower 14" section of PVC will be clamped to the rack on the Miller and the 24" top section with the relieved coupler will slide down over the exposed rods to sit on the lower piece. Retained by gravity? i.e. your Dremel relief is to make it an easy slide fit.What do you do with leftover part rods? They'll store in the lower piece until they shrink below 14". Maybe you toss them out then, I don't know. But I know here, I'd be keeping them "just in case". My only concern is if they're put in with the full length ones then every time you want to place the top section over them, you'll have to guide them all in. (like trying to herd cats!) Unless you use the time honoured system of bending a hook in the top to avoid poking eyes out and then hang them somewhere by the hook, perhaps alongside their respective tube of origin? OA trollies used to be festooned with these odds and ends. Usually easy to sort as either steel or braze rod in that case but I don't know how easy the ID is on the ali filler rods. I note we now get stainless filler with a flattened section with the rod type stamped on it. Years gone by just gave you rods and no ID, then we got adhesive flags but they could be a nuisance and the stamped rods are just the berries. Just a thought in passing."One of the things we have to be thankful for is that we don't get as much government as we pay for." (Charles Kettering)Mitch 180 (NZ)Lincoln SAM-400-220 + ?-400 Fordson Major + 2 x Tractapac Humber 80 + Procut 40 PlasmaMiller Spectrum 375
Reply:Originally Posted by TractapacLooking good there Duane. So, let's see if I've got it right?The lower 14" section of PVC will be clamped to the rack on the Miller and the 24" top section with the relieved coupler will slide down over the exposed rods to sit on the lower piece. Retained by gravity? i.e. your Dremel relief is to make it an easy slide fit.What do you do with leftover part rods? They'll store in the lower piece until they shrink below 14". Maybe you toss them out then, I don't know. But I know here, I'd be keeping them "just in case". My only concern is if they're put in with the full length ones then every time you want to place the top section over them, you'll have to guide them all in. (like trying to herd cats!) Unless you use the time honoured system of bending a hook in the top to avoid poking eyes out and then hang them somewhere by the hook, perhaps alongside their respective tube of origin? OA trollies used to be festooned with these odds and ends. Usually easy to sort as either steel or braze rod in that case but I don't know how easy the ID is on the ali filler rods. I note we now get stainless filler with a flattened section with the rod type stamped on it. Years gone by just gave you rods and no ID, then we got adhesive flags but they could be a nuisance and the stamped rods are just the berries. Just a thought in passing.
Reply:Aside from the fact it all needs to come apart so the brackets can be painted and I need to get three more PVC caps as we cleaned Home Depot out of them here's what it all looks like.  There's more than five photos so a second post with a few more will follow this one so please stand by.Strut channels clamped to the 'L' brackets with 'pre-Chinese' Vise-Grips that were manufactured in the USA.Shots of the some of the TIG welds.  I think I'm actually starting to get a feel for it and I only dipped the tungsten twice!Both strut channel/bracket assemblies installed.Stay tuned for post #2.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Post #2.All filler rod tubes installed.  Spacing is 2-1/2" on center which leaves adequate room to grab the top section for removal.  Upper tubes to the right still lack top caps.Aluminum filler still in original container - which fits easily in the 1" PVC - until the tubes are labeled.Rear most tube with 18"(?) long brazing rod.Close up of clearance to welder body, strut channel brackets and tube clamps.I think a nice feature of this method is if one filler rod seems to be more popular than another, a larger tube (1-1/2" or 2") can be installed if desired.Thanks for looking and we'll be working on the electrode holders on the other side tomorrow.DuaneMM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Very nice add onUnistrap...whooda thought.Sure bet ya cringed just a tiny bit drilling into that signature blue paint weld it like you own it
Reply:Originally Posted by lewrayVery nice add onUnistrap...whooda thought.Sure bet ya cringed just a tiny bit drilling into that signature blue paint
Reply:Originally Posted by lewrayVery nice add onUnistrap...whooda thought.Sure bet ya cringed just a tiny bit drilling into that signature blue paint
Reply:The shiny stuff is aluminum isn't it??"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammNice thing about piercing the blue paint is that it starts to rust LINCOLN RED
Reply:Well, damnit, is it loominum???  Or is it shiny other stuff.??  Idiots like me wanna know"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Posted almost on top of you.  SorryYou burst my bubble, I thought it was lloominummummActually, what will the process allow as far as different metals?"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:I like the way you put the splice right at the upper strut. The tubes can't slip down when you accidentally drop some filler in. Those welds are a perfect example of why I enjoy TIG. Samm, even though TIG is magic, alum can't be welded to steel. The strut looks galvanized? I tried to TIG a file folder frame for a guy in class that kept coming apart. But it was galvanized, the zinc popped and pooped all over my tungsten. I used the case screws also, to fasten my shelves (welding stuff) above the welder. No frikkin' way I was about to drill holes in a $$$$$ welder. EDIT: Again, I'm 15 minutes behind the thread. 9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250
Reply:Time to go to the Bible, and find out what it'll do I guess.  Thanks"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Duane,  (NICE WORK)Got to love the "Project section" for ideas!You read my mind!  I just yesterday laid out the unistrut that I had laying around and was gathering up some clamps. I was thinking of using 2" so I could retain the original clear tubes inside and not worrying about the stubs till I was down to a few long sticks (then I could have a little fusing sesson)I never thought of relieving the couplings I was going to use male/femaie adaptors (but I like your idea better (less fittings to buy and glue up.I have both 'green painted unistrut, and some anodized stuff--any problem tigging that stuff with out grinding first??Did I mention I have to get comfortable enough to either build a new cart or modify the cheap HF one that my Dynasty is sitting on.TimA rich man is not the one who has the most but instead one who needs theleast. Retired IUEC local 19AK Bush pilot,  Chaplain  CMA Chapt 26victor torchesMiller110v migDynasty 200dx (new in Dec 08)Hypertherm PM-45MM-252 (new 2/09)
Reply:Originally Posted by Craig in DenverI like the way you put the splice right at the upper strut. The tubes can't slip down when you accidentally drop some filler in. Those welds are a perfect example of why I enjoy TIG. Samm, even though TIG is magic, alum can't be welded to steel. The strut looks galvanized? I tried to TIG a file folder frame for a guy in class that kept coming apart. But it was galvanized, the zinc popped and pooped all over my tungsten. I used the case screws also, to fasten my shelves (welding stuff) above the welder. No frikkin' way I was about to drill holes in a $$$$$ welder. EDIT: Again, I'm 15 minutes behind the thread.
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammPosted almost on top of you.  SorryYou burst my bubble, I thought it was lloominummummActually, what will the process allow as far as different metals?
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55Good question.  Don't know the full extent of the limits beyond aluminum and steel don't mix.  It's a ferrous-vs.-non-ferrous thing.  Although there was a thread explaining how aluminum and steel are 'joined' using a form of friction welding for certain applications in ship building.  I don't remember the details and I didn't do a search though.
Reply:Craig-  It's a dialup thing.  In a lot of other things, it's a good thing to be "delayed".Sicko humor..........Sorry"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Man, when you two girls get ta typin' there ain't no keepin' up. Samm:If a metal can be welded, it can probably be done with TIG. But there aren't really any dissimilar metals that will weld together, other than stainless and mild steel.edit: I kin relate to 'sicko'.9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250
Reply:Now that y'all ruined my day, I'm headin' off to the fart sackTake care, was another good night"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by UltrachopDuane,  (NICE WORK)Got to love the "Project section" for ideas!You read my mind!  I just yesterday laid out the unistrut that I had laying around and was gathering up some clamps. I was thinking of using 2" so I could retain the original clear tubes inside and not worrying about the stubs till I was down to a few long sticks (then I could have a little fusing sesson)I never thought of relieving the couplings I was going to use male/femaie adaptors (but I like your idea better (less fittings to buy and glue up.I have both 'green painted unistrut, and some anodized stuff--any problem tigging that stuff with out grinding first??Did I mention I have to get comfortable enough to either build a new cart or modify the cheap HF one that my Dynasty is sitting on.Tim
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55You're real close Tractapac but the 'relieved' coupler is on the 14" piece.As for the 'shorties', when a filler rod gets down to about 16" it goes back in and stays there until there's another about that long at which time they are fused together to make a single longer one and the process starts over.The only marked rods in the bunch at this point are the steel ones but the lower tube sections will be labelled for filler identification.
Reply:biggest problem with using unistrut ( or any other coated painted metal)  is if you dont get the paint or galvanized off, you get to watch the coating  burn up as the puddle gets to it and you start to think, "how big of  a piss-blister is this gonna make in my nice tig weld?"
Reply:duaneb55:  Great little project!  I like seeing organization.  That's totally tubular, dude!Now... if you manifold an airhose to the bottom of those tubes you could put the church organist out of work.  -MondoMember, AWSLincoln ProMIG 140Lincoln AC TombstoneCraftsman Lathe 12 x 24 c1935Atlas MFC Horizontal MillCraftsman Commercial Lathe 12 x 36 c1970- - - I'll just keep on keepin' on.Originally Posted by TractapacA thought just occurred to me though, that Miller looks good behind bars!
Reply:Got the filler tube strut channels painted, installed and all the tubes back on and went to work building the electrode tube rack for the other side.  Not going to elaborate with descriptions as there'll be 15 photos all together so I give a basic rundown here.All welds were TIG of course with all being non-filler lap, edge and butt joints.  I didn't even dip the tungsten once even though I did several of the lap joints left handed!Post #1 is preparation and fit-up of the electrode holder clip bar and support angle.  Carriage bolts and nuts were used for fit-up as I didn't have the correct length yet.Post #2 is of some of the welds and the base support angle blasted and ready for paint.Post #3 is of the whole thing put together and rod holders in place.Stand by for post #2 and #3 and thanks again for looking!Duane Attached ImagesMM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Post #2. Attached ImagesMM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:And post #3. Attached ImagesMM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:duane keep it coming. think I will have to steal that slick stick storage bracket idea for my service truck250DXMM251MM175225G plus 251D-1
Reply:Originally Posted by dedmetalduane keep it coming. think I will have to steal that slick stick storage bracket idea for my service truck
Reply:will srart a new build thread on truck as soon as that project kicks off right now still gathering components for it250DXMM251MM175225G plus 251D-1
Reply:Originally Posted by dedmetalwill srart a new build thread on truck as soon as that project kicks off right now still gathering components for it
Reply:cant wait to see it250DXMM251MM175225G plus 251D-1
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55Still planning it out but the final design will probably evolve the same way the filler rod and electrode storage did.
Reply:Originally Posted by BrinkBy that do you mean plan as you go and make last minute changes?
Reply:Duane:Your simplicity of design is excellent. Not intending to hijack, here's how I did my SW250, years ago. I used 3/8" threaded rod for the uprights and 1" angle for the three shelves. I used 1/4" plexiglass for the bottoms of the shelves because I had some available. There is a lot of room above a welder. Some day I might add a shallow drawer for the small stuff. Like yourself, I drilled no holes. Attached Images9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55Yup.  Is there any other way?
Reply:Nice job duanneLincoln 255XT Power Mig                                                                    Lincoln Precision Tig 225Hypertherm Powermax 30
Reply:Nice looking job there.  I finally made a rod holder myself.  It's nice not having to dig though a pile of crap to get your filler rod.Common sense in an uncommon degree is what the world calls wisdom.
Reply:Originally Posted by Mondoduaneb55:  Great little project!  I like seeing organization.  That's totally tubular, dude!Now... if you manifold an airhose to the bottom of those tubes you could put the church organist out of work.  -Mondo
Reply:After doing battle with Strep Throat all week that absolutely kicked my butt, I managed to muster up enough energy today to pick up where I left off on the 180 SD storage project and put some of that bedframe angle from the "Recycled Angle Iron" thread http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=24677 to use as shelves to be mounted over the welder - similar to what Craig in Denver did for his 250.Only had 'umph' to get one of them done and a second one started today so tomorrow I'll go at it again and we'll see how far I get.If you'll recall, it started out like this - X2......transformed to this......and further transformed to this - the beginnings of four 16" X 19-3/4" shelf frames.1" front end angle tie-in to 1-1/4" side frame angle.Back end to side angle mitered corner.Stand by for more photos in post #2.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Post #2.Another 'angle' of the 1" front piece tie-in with the 1-1/4" side angle.  The 1" on the front end is used for a little additional shelf opening and due to the available material from the original matching bed frames.The entire frame pieces together for a test fit.First frame used as fit up aid for second - and eventually - the remaining shelf frames.A couple shots of the initial TIG welds.More tomorrow as the project progresses.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Hey Duane:Sorry you're feeling bad. Post #42, pic 4 & 5; nice joints. Post #43, pic 1-5. HEY, have you been in my garage?!?! Great minds think alike.  Nice welds, too.So, how'r ya hangin' 'em?  More tomorrow as the project progresses. Nevermind. Craig P.S: thanks fer the mention. 9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250
Reply:Duane,Well done!  I look forward to the day I can tig as consistant as that!  I got humbled and taught today by a 20year old that showed me how to tig .040 Aluminum like it was 1/4" plate.Believing for your complete recovery from the crud!TimA rich man is not the one who has the most but instead one who needs theleast. Retired IUEC local 19AK Bush pilot,  Chaplain  CMA Chapt 26victor torchesMiller110v migDynasty 200dx (new in Dec 08)Hypertherm PM-45MM-252 (new 2/09)
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55After doing battle with Strep Throat all week that absolutely kicked my butt
Reply:Originally Posted by BrinkI have a feeling that late nights are to blame for this . . . .
Reply:Nice fit up prior to welding Duane. The welds look great too.Hope your throat gets better quickly.Do you know when you can did before you do?"One of the things we have to be thankful for is that we don't get as much government as we pay for." (Charles Kettering)Mitch 180 (NZ)Lincoln SAM-400-220 + ?-400 Fordson Major + 2 x Tractapac Humber 80 + Procut 40 PlasmaMiller Spectrum 375
Reply:Originally Posted by Craig in DenverLMAO!!  Now there's the pot calling the kettle 'black'. Does yer Daddy know yer up this late?
Reply:nice miters on the odd sized angle duane sorry about the strep throat your side of the state been getting a little chilly i recomend staying indoors more with the nurse you will be better in no time250DXMM251MM175225G plus 251D-1
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