Some of my tig welds.

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lmk what you guys thinkHere are some sch 10 304 ss welds i did.here is a few recent flange welds  i did vs. the manifold above, which is about a year old.This weld i did on my vice so i had pleny of room to reposition so the weld shape is more uniform then the others.Here is some 1/8" wall square to round welds i did as practice. i have been tig welding for about 2 years and am still trying to get my welds to a point that i feel i can be happy with them. My biggest problem is with underfilling my pipe joints. I was told the technique i use on the pipe welds are Lay-wire, is this correct? After my root pass with no filler I make a second pass whith filler and never pull the filler out of the puddle and just manipulate the torch as i move forward I push the filler into the puddle. i have also been told i pulse but i try to explain i do not do that.( hate pulse welds)Oh and don't hold back lmk if i'm doing something stupid, i'm here to learn.
Reply:Looks really good man!  Nice beads.
Reply:gorgeous. is that a T3 flange? http://kawispeed.com/ -moderator and tech deluxewww.myspace.com/trickortrack -cuz i have no life
Reply:very pretty. hey looks like u might know a thing or 2 about exhaust work. i dont! if i were to build some headers outta stainless would i have to get them coated with some ceramic substance or would they be fine in the as welded condition/?
Reply:Originally Posted by El_Lloydeoif i were to build some headers outta stainless would i have to get them coated with some ceramic substance or would they be fine in the as welded condition/?
Reply:i thought they coated it to protect other stuff from the heat. didnt even think it was from the rust factor! good lookin out.
Reply:Dammit show boating right there! Thems purty keep it up.I know I may be burnt up, but your ol' lady likes 'em crispy!Member Pipeliners Union 798
Reply:what is rong with pulse?  so you say your root pass your just fuseing then you go back and finish with rod? by the way nice job!
Reply:i just hate the look it give's the weld, people seem to get fish scale looking welds.on my pipe joints(sch 10 ) i will run a hot pass with no filler, for the most part this give's you some penetration and a little groove to follow with the second pass.
Reply:Originally Posted by whitehendrix!gorgeous. is that a T3 flange?
Reply:Originally Posted by El_Lloydeoi thought they coated it to protect other stuff from the heat. didnt even think it was from the rust factor! good lookin out.
Reply:BTW nice welds a bit under filled to my liking. But not rejectable visually. Puling could help a lot with lowering the overall heat input.
Reply:Originally Posted by mgroshongactually this is a divided t4 flange, oh and it going on a honda....
Reply:well it's a pretty basic build. freinds eg civic hatchback.- sleeved 1.6L b16 w/valvetrain- custom intake manifold- topmount turbo manifold- 4" downpipe- bullseye S366xl divided t4 1.01 a/r- 24x12x4" fmiccar made 495 at 22 psi at 9500 rpm with a 1.9L, at 25ish psi put down 560 at but the ignition wasn't up to the job and would blow out spark. so it's just getting going.
Reply:Need a lot more practice.I do that is!Very nice work.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Originally Posted by mgroshongcar made 495 at 22 psi at 9500 rpm with a 1.9L, at 25ish psi put down 560
Reply:
Reply:Originally Posted by mgroshongwell it's a pretty basic build. freinds eg civic hatchback.- sleeved 1.6L b16 w/valvetrain- custom intake manifold- topmount turbo manifold- 4" downpipe- bullseye S366xl divided t4 1.01 a/r- 24x12x4" fmiccar made 495 at 22 psi at 9500 rpm with a 1.9L, at 25ish psi put down 560 at but the ignition wasn't up to the job and would blow out spark. so it's just getting going.
Reply:yeah i'm working on a turbo kit for a 05' R1 . gt2871r .64 a/r. ran a 10 flat at 120? mph with 170 whp. mods were leo vince full header/exhaust, k and n, v stacks, and tune. looking for 250 whp  with the turbo kit.
Reply:91jdmhatchback....better hurry, my skillz will soon surpass that of your's. heheh
Reply:Originally Posted by SD_Lurker91jdmhatchback....better hurry, my skillz will soon surpass that of your's. heheh
Reply:Originally Posted by mgroshongyeah i'm working on a turbo kit for a 05' R1 . gt2871r .64 a/r. ran a 10 flat at 120? mph with 170 whp. mods were leo vince full header/exhaust, k and n, v stacks, and tune. looking for 250 whp  with the turbo kit.
Reply:Well here is a weld i just did on a turbo flange. i think they turned out pretty good.How do you guys do your flange welds on sch10 or similer material? How much reinforcment do you have? (filler)lmk
Reply:anyone?
Reply:don't take the silence personally. most guys are either jealous, or put off by thread titles like "how are my welds?" I really like your consistency. big ripples probably only make tig welds more brittle. as for how much filler, use enough so that your weld cross-section, the weld is equal to the rest of the metal in thickness by average, give-or-take for filler vs. material strength. bulging welds are pointless if you can fuse the whole thickness of the joint evenly IMO.Thanks for the reply.Yeah i have been trying to gauge how big my welds should be. people tend to very quite a bit so it makes things harder. ha
Reply:Originally Posted by whitehendrix!almsot sounds like clutch/suspension setup there. that bike otta have a higher trap speed than that..64 shouldn't spool to high.. gonna hit hard as hell tho.. lol if it's drag/street i'd opt for a touch smaller A/R tho.. mid to high 50's. i am told by many that the stock rods in my bike are good to about 500hp, so i'm plenty within tolerance at 250 to the wheel. better stretch the hell outta that R1!!!
Reply:Heat is the enemy with stainless, and pulsing helps decrease the heat input.   With the stuff I do, I turn the pulse way up(over 100pps) and it doesn't drastically effect the look of the weld.   Then there is this(from Miller's site):  The higher pulsing rates of a TIG inverter increase puddle agitation, which in turn produces a better grain molecular structure (strength) within the weld. Pulsing the current at higher speeds also constricts and focuses the arc. This produces a smaller heat-affected zone and increases arc stability, penetration and travel speeds.
Reply:i will give you some feed back but i will say that it is nit picky, but since you still want to improve here are a couple of things to work on. the legs on your fillets are uneven in all of the pics but the last turbo flange. you routinely have a little more leg on the flange than you do on the tube. i know it can be hard with such dissimilar thickness to keep it even but it can be done. i think your but welds look fine as far as being above flush on something that thin their isn't a need to have a big cap sticking out.BTW it is good to see someone dedicating this much skill to exhaust work. show quality work in my opinion.
Reply:Dude,  I normally refuse to let anybody other than myself weld on my stuff, but when it comes to stainless exhaust, I wouldn't hesitate letting you do it.
Reply:Originally Posted by mgroshongThanks for the reply.Yeah i have been trying to gauge how big my welds should be. people tend to very quite a bit so it makes things harder. ha
Reply:Something to be proud of. Very proffesional.Which welder did you use? Inverter? Personnally I like pulse at about 175 PPS to keep the heat down and keep the filler rod in the weld pool without removing while back purged. If possible weld on a copper heat block to stop my flanges from warping.Keep up the good work.THE OLDER I GET! THE  SMARTER MY DAD WAS!Thermal Arc 185 inverter Tig welderABITIG 26  tig torchLotus foot pedalLincoln 225 stick welderClark 185SG Mig spoolgunwelderVictor torch/regulatorsHF36" shear,bender,roller.
Reply:I'm using a sync 200, i hate the pulse feature on it, as it only goes up to 15pps i think. Although i have used it on a few thin pieces i had trouble keeping the heat out on.I weld my flanges on a 3/4" block of steel. It helps keep warping down for the most part.
Reply:Originally Posted by quasii will give you some feed back but i will say that it is nit picky, but since you still want to improve here are a couple of things to work on. the legs on your fillets are uneven in all of the pics but the last turbo flange. you routinely have a little more leg on the flange than you do on the tube. i know it can be hard with such dissimilar thickness to keep it even but it can be done. i think your but welds look fine as far as being above flush on something that thin their isn't a need to have a big cap sticking out.BTW it is good to see someone dedicating this much skill to exhaust work. show quality work in my opinion.
Reply:Originally Posted by jdustuI don't know that it matters in this case, but if your welding a thin wall exhaust tube to a thick flange, I would think that having the leg thicker on the flange size would acceptable, if not preferable.