Day 3 - Tig

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Latest ALUM picturesAmp @ 150Balance @ 6.51/8 aluminum3/32 redQuestion: how much depth does the beads need to be?  I notice some are higher than others ... any thoughts, as always appreciated - thanks Attached ImagesAcademyKP03Miller Sychcrowave 200
Reply:I'd say your off to a good start..Gotta keep the holes from happening on the stops though..Go in small circles over the end and add a dab..Go around again and do the same thing while letting up on the pedal all at the same time..Its tough at first but you'll "get it" ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Thanks; I'll try thatAnother question -- am I correct in basically, dipping my filler in the puddle, it almost instantly melts - then letting off the pedal .... moving the torch a bit to the left and then increasing the heat - getting a puddle ... adding filler to the puddle .. and repeating ect .....   is that pushing?  Cuz all I do is simply dip the filler ... i don't understand the pushing of the puddle terminology .... appreciate any explanationsAcademyKP03Miller Sychcrowave 200
Reply:Don't pump the pedal and try it.  There's no reason to pump it like you are.
Reply:Originally Posted by EngloidDon't pump the pedal and try it.  There's no reason to pump it like you are.
Reply:Looking much improved.To begin with, keep it simple, no pumping, weaving, bobbing, tilting, pulsing, or smiling while you weld.Hold the current constant, just letting up on the pedal to compensate for heat buildup to keep the width of the puddle constant.Hold everything as constant as you can, arc gap (keep it tight, about 1/8" max.), torch angle, straight line travel /no weave, travel speed, and frequency of dipping the wire into the puddle.Dip, retract, dip, retract.Work on keeping the tip of wire protected within the shield gas envelope near the torch, pulling the hot wire way out with cause it to oxidize and you'll be shoving that into your weld.
Reply:What I also did to learn was to scribe a straight line into the metal so I had something to follow while welding.  It helps when your welding parts you can follow the joint.I also read somewhere on here to not just run beads on flat material, but to actual practice welding parts together.  So I just took some 2" x 1/8" flat and cut a bunch of small sections to try butt joints, lap joint and fillets.  I think I learned more when I was actually preforming a real weld joint.  I read that fillets are the hardest, so might want to learn the others first so you don't get discourage.  I started mainly on butt joints and then to fillets until I found out the fillet was the hardest and it explains why I had such a hard time with them.Build a Barstool Racer at BarFlyRacers.com!
Reply:The scribed line is a great idea, I bet it would help alot.IMO, an outside corner weld is about the easiest.  A beginner can start by just traveling steady and fusing without filler.  (let's not get into the metallurgy of alloys, no filler, and weld cracking, it's just practice)
Reply:I agree with Pulser- Malich, that is a great idea to scribe a line to follow! These welds look much better. Now that you are getting the puddle wet enough, and adding the correct amounts of filler, do like they say- start welding together parts.Just start doing lap welds, outside corners to get the feel. If you can't distinguish how much you pull down the amps with the pedal by the look of the arc, try to listen to the buzzing of the arc. As you back off the pedal, the sound will soften, and flatten out. When you step on it, the sound will get sharper. It will all come together for you soon. Looking good, keep up the good work.And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.