Tig Welding 20 Guage Stainless Steel 304

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OK, So I've deciding to try alittle tig welding. Thought it might be fun making a maple sugar evaporating pan, just a small one 2'sq with 8" sides. I Purchased a sheet of 304 20 gauge stainless and I'll be cutting out the bottom and sides of the pan with a plasma cutter, infact I did that already. Since I am new to tig and really haven't much of a clue as to the correct amperage, gas flow rate, cup size, electrode size etc, I thought I'd see what advice you guys could throw at me.I'll be using a DC HF start 160 amp tig adjustable from 10 to 160 amps. No foot pedal just trigger on the torch on-off control.HELP!http://www.PlasmaMetalCutter.comGiantTech Cut40DGiantTech Cut50DGiantTech CT520DGiantTech Tig200sGiantTech Arc200GiantTech Tig200PACDCMiller MM210No Brand Chinese Chop SawNo Brand Chinese 4" Angle Grinder
Reply:Oh and I hope to just fuse it, no filler.http://www.PlasmaMetalCutter.comGiantTech Cut40DGiantTech Cut50DGiantTech CT520DGiantTech Tig200sGiantTech Arc200GiantTech Tig200PACDCMiller MM210No Brand Chinese Chop SawNo Brand Chinese 4" Angle Grinder
Reply:First, you wanna get yourself a quality welding machine- I would suggest a Miller then, realize you are starting out with a very tough first project.If I was you, I would practice for a few days on 1/8" mild, before attempting 20 gage stainless.No foot pedal is also gonna make it much much harder- with really thin material, I would say a foot pedal is essential, for at least the first 5 years or so.I have been tig welding for 20 years or so, and while I can fusion weld without a foot pedal, its sure not my preference.Get a foot pedal. Of course, with a foot pedal, you vary the amperage- which means you dont have to pick the exact right amps, you would just set the machine at, say 120 amps for this job, then try it out, and adjust it down a bit, maybe, when you start welding. I would use a brake to bend a small lip on the 4 sides of the bottom- especially if I wanted to fusion weld- then you would be welding two parallel pieces together. Its much tougher to fusion weld a 90 degree weld.And why fusion? aint ya got one of those nine dollar chinese grinders? I see no big advantage to fusion welding this. I would use a 1/16" tungsten, sharpened very fine (actually, I would probably just use the 1/8" tungsten thats already in my machine, but it aint my first time).I would use 1/16" 308 filler rod.But, as I said, first I would practice a whole lot on scrap mild.
Reply:I build bespoke Extraction canopies out of 304, @ .8mm. (25guage) You will need a very good fit-up if you want to fuse it.It will also warp badly, if you get too much heat in it.Tack up every 2" and move like the wind.1/16" redNo7 20cfmAmps will depend on your set, I need 20amps on one set at work and 30ish on another, down to as little as 8amps on my set for running inHTHLast edited by Shox Dr; 02-07-2008 at 04:23 PM.
Reply:Ries, when I first started building these at the beginning of this year, I'd of loved to use a pedal (I have one at home, and my last job) but I'd never get anything done, we sit down for most of the part, and scoot about on office type chairs, if we used pedals it would take forever, to do a canopy.It didn't take long to get out of the pedal mind set (1/2hr maybe), it just makes life a lot easier, for some jobs.
Reply:I have two tig machines, both with pedals hooked up, and one of the torches also has a hand operated control strapped on, and one of em does lift arc as well.I have done plenty of hand control tig, lift arc, and even old scratch start. Nothing quite as fun as using a scratch start tig in a 90 foot manlift, at night.I still prefer using a pedal, especially on stuff that has to look good- which is about 90% of what I do. Its just easier to get a good looking, quality weld, and me, I would rather take longer the first time than have to do it over.For a beginner, though, I think its a lot easier to learn with a pedal. Then progress to lift arc or a hand control. Its just one less thing to worry about.
Reply:Shox Dr has it right.There is nothing easier to fuse than an outside corner. You will need a perfect fit, anywhere you don't have a perfect fit will end up being a hole.Fusing this is the way to go, adding filler would just be silly. This is actually very easy to do if you have a good tight fit.20-30 amps, experiment. I have never TIGged without a pedal, the thought makes me cringe.Miller EconotigCutmaster 38Yes ma'am, that IS a screwdriver in my pocket!
Reply:Wait,120 amps and adjust down?OR 20 to 30 amps?OK I'll try both the suggestions out.But you're all in agreement on 20 cfm and number 7 cup?http://www.PlasmaMetalCutter.comGiantTech Cut40DGiantTech Cut50DGiantTech CT520DGiantTech Tig200sGiantTech Arc200GiantTech Tig200PACDCMiller MM210No Brand Chinese Chop SawNo Brand Chinese 4" Angle Grinder
Reply:Id start with 20amps on some scrap, you need to get a weld pool going as soon as, if not it will warp big time.The weld needs to be light straw coloured, anything more than that and you'll get warping, even will light straw it will warp so do a bit then move to another area
Reply:Originally Posted by GiantTechGuyOK, So I've deciding to try alittle tig welding. Thought it might be fun making a maple sugar evaporating pan, just a small one 2'sq with 8" sides. I Purchased a sheet of 304 20 gauge stainless and I'll be cutting out the bottom and sides of the pan with a plasma cutter, infact I did that already. Since I am new to tig and really haven't much of a clue as to the correct amperage, gas flow rate, cup size, electrode size etc, I thought I'd see what advice you guys could throw at me.I'll be using a DC HF start 160 amp tig adjustable from 10 to 160 amps. No foot pedal just trigger on the torch on-off control.HELP!
Reply:William McCormick,I have a stupid question.... why is the angle iron jig aluminum?http://www.PlasmaMetalCutter.comGiantTech Cut40DGiantTech Cut50DGiantTech CT520DGiantTech Tig200sGiantTech Arc200GiantTech Tig200PACDCMiller MM210No Brand Chinese Chop SawNo Brand Chinese 4" Angle Grinder
Reply:It has been my experience that the best fit up for an open corner joint on light gage SS would be as follows. By using a torch angle as shown you will put the least amount of heat into the work. I've done 18 ga but never tried 20.It is my opinion that if you are a beginner...this isn't the project to start with. You're gonna destroy that sheet of material.
Reply:Originally Posted by GiantTechGuyWilliam McCormick,I have a stupid question.... why is the angle iron jig aluminum?
Reply:Originally Posted by TinbasherAluminum works to quickly draw heat away from the stainless. Stainless has a high coefficient of expansion and isn't a great conductor. Copper and aluminum 'chill bars' are commonly used to minimize warpage when welding light gage SS
Reply:Originally Posted by TinbasherIt has been my experience that the best fit up for an open corner joint on light gage SS would be as follows. By using a torch angle as shown you will put the least amount of heat into the work. I've done 18 ga but never tried 20.It is my opinion that if you are a beginner...this isn't the project to start with. You're gonna destroy that sheet of material.