Aluminum radiator question.

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Hello all ! This is my first post, I have a question about a radiator I purchased. Hers a link to a pic of the issue at hand. The water pump neck on the bottom of the radiator is on THE WRONG SIDE!!!Well, ok, its an issue of aftermarket vs. Stock parts, but what I'm trying to find out is . . . How much would it cost (roughly) to change the side of the water neck?  I assuem the drain **** and the neck would have to basically trade places. I'm in Los Angeles, is there a go to guy out here for this type of thing? I can pay for the work, but before I pursue that, I want to know if it will be worth it. I can get a hose to correct the issue, or change the water pump to an older style, I would just have to mark my motor for TDC> Anyway, any help would be appreciated. The guys at the car forum started being smartasses about it, so I thought I'd come to the source.
Reply:lol, the computer censored DRAINCOCK hahaah
Reply:So this is a vertical flow radiator?  Did you buy this new and can you return it?  I'm not terribly impressed by the quality from that picture. Originally Posted by SundownIIIDon't get me wrong.  They are just as ill informed about politics as they are about welding, they just post more on that subject.
Reply:You  know, I talked to a guy at the manufacturer about an hour ago, and he said I would just need somebody to cut out that draincock, and swap its location with the neck. I cant return it, I wish I could. . . . but I bumped a couple of the fins and its basically my radiator now. How much do you think something like this would run? The guy said there isnt any epoxy or anythng in this radiator, so I wouldnt be melting any glue or anything, if I had it cut, swapped, and TIG welded back in. I admit, I am completely oblivious to welding, I know very very little of how it works. . .. so I'm just looking for an estimate. . . . .or if you have a shop in Los Angeles that does this, etc. . .
Reply:If i did this, your looking at .....50 to 75 buck, but i do alot cheaper than i should..... so im told. its a simple change, they can use a hole saw cut both out the same size and swap them around, or cut a square, the same size and swap.
Reply:and i agree with JM that is not a quality product thats for sure.
Reply:I have done it before and i think i charged the guy $100 bucks for the hassle.Vantage 500's LN-25's, VI-400's, cobramatics, Miller migs, synch 350 LX, Powcon inverters, XMT's, 250 Ton Acurrpress 12' brake, 1/4" 10' Atlantic shear,Koikie plasma table W/ esab plasmas. marvel & hyd-mech saws, pirrana & metal muncher punches.
Reply:Originally Posted by astaindsoul5446and i agree with JM that is not a quality product thats for sure.
Reply:Originally Posted by fmontez1You  know, I talked to a guy at the manufacturer about an hour ago, and he said I would just need somebody to cut out that draincock, and swap its location with the neck. I cant return it, I wish I could. . . . but I bumped a couple of the fins and its basically my radiator now. How much do you think something like this would run? The guy said there isnt any epoxy or anythng in this radiator, so I wouldnt be melting any glue or anything, if I had it cut, swapped, and TIG welded back in. I admit, I am completely oblivious to welding, I know very very little of how it works. . .. so I'm just looking for an estimate. . . . .or if you have a shop in Los Angeles that does this, etc. . .
Reply:Are you putting both the inlet and outlet on the same side (after it's relocated)? If so, you'll likely find that the radiator doesn't cool at all. You'd need a block off panel welded in about half way down the tank on the side with the two hoses to force the coolant across the radiator into the opposite tank where it will then find its way back across the opposite end of the radiator and to the outlet hose.KevinHobart Handler 210Tweco Fabricator 181iLincoln Squarewave Tig 175
Reply:Well, shoot. I suppose I'm gonna do the lamest thing ever and just buy one of those Stainless Steel universal hose kits. it'll cost about the same, but that post about "If the necks are on the same side it might not cool at all. . . " makes sense, cause the water would just go down the few rows that gravity pulls it through, right? So, I'll just buy the unsightly hose and run that for a while. Then buy a better radiator in a couple of months. This will work to get the car running. The engine is a Smallblock 318 in a 1968 Dodge Coronet. B-Body like a Charger or Roadrunner. And you know something, I did think the price was too good to be true. . . . . It's like they always say, you get what you pay for! Lesson learned.Last edited by fmontez1; 01-06-2012 at 11:34 AM.
Reply:Originally Posted by trackbirdAre you putting both the inlet and outlet on the same side (after it's relocated)? If so, you'll likely find that the radiator doesn't cool at all. You'd need a block off panel welded in about half way down the tank on the side with the two hoses to force the coolant across the radiator into the opposite tank where it will then find its way back across the opposite end of the radiator and to the outlet hose.
Reply:Originally Posted by fmontez1The engine is a Smallblock 318 in a 1968 Dodge Coronet. B-Body like a Charger or Roadrunner.
Reply:I'd cut the hose outlet off flush with the radiator. Hole saw the drain off with the right size for it to fit the hose side. The hose outlet should fit the hole made with the hole saw perfectly. Weld all up and done.Simple pimple, easy peezy, in and out in an hour.
Reply:Originally Posted by astaindsoul5446The tank would have to be split so it would travel across the tubes to the other tank, up and back across.
Reply:I just went through the same thing with my 1966 Mustang. I got a rebuilt engine for it, 1987 302 HO, and I had to use the late 60s to early 70s style water pump and timing cover because the radiator has the lower hose on the passenger's side, opposite to the 80's style. I had to get a new timing marker (also for the earlier era Mustangs) and find TDC.IMO, it's easier to do that than to have your radiator changed around. It might even be cheaper. You'd also run into less problems. Good luck.Edit: NPD has a crossover hose like what you're talking about for my car as well but it was about $100. It's way cheaper to just buy the older style water pump, unless they have cheaper ones for your purpose. And if you do decide to go with the older style water pump, make sure you pay attention to the rotation. In my case, the 80's water pumps were serpentine and they spun the opposite way because of the way the belts were oriented and they had an idler pulley to reverse the rotation.Last edited by UMfan92; 01-16-2012 at 12:32 AM.