Burned my first rod today and....

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I finally got to play with the welder for the first time today. My machine is a Lincoln AC225 and I was welding on clean 1/8" plate.Rod: 1/8" 7018Amps: 125The box was opened so I guess they need to be dried. I never could get a bead started and the rod kept sticking. This one was frustrating. Too bad because I have about 100 pounds of this rod.Rod: 3/32" 6013Amps: 125I was able to strike an arc and hold it fairly well with this rod. The welds look like hell and I will post pics as soon as I can. I have about 20 pounds of this rod.Until I get some pics posted, I would greatly appreciate some words of wisdom. If the rain holds out tomorrow, I will go at it again.Thanks! Dan
Reply:125 Amps with 3/32 electrodes on 1/8 steel is way to hot try like 75. I would reccamend sticking with the 6013 for now if all you have is 7018. --Gol'
Reply:Thanks for the advice. I kept turning it up because the electrodes kept sticking. I will try again tomorrow.Here is a link: http://www.geocities.com/dan95yj/100_0418.JPG
Reply:Strike an arc, hold the electrode around a 10-15 degree drag angle. Watch your arc length and try to keep it around 1/8 starting out until you can keep the electrode from sticking. Stick with it lol. It will come --Gol'
Reply:You're really going to have a hard time getting 7018 going with a Lincoln AC225. It will run 7018AC just fine. Few entry level AC buzz box welders run 7018 well unless they have a low range tap and then they'll only run it on the low tap.
Reply:I wouldn't bother with the 7018.  6013 runs great on AC.   Try lower amps.  You will learn to strike the arc before the 20 pounds of rod are gone.  The rod must look like a red noodle at 125 amps.  20* tilt of the rod towards the start,  Try to keep the arc length a rods diameter.  Let us know and more pics please.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:for 7018 dc+  i found i can run it all pos. at 135 amps (no motion) and the slag cracks and lifts on its own. but sorry i dont have alot of expierience with 60136G zirconium 702 GTAW 2" xxheavy6G P.E.D. carbon steel GTAW 2" xxheavy3G titanium Gr. 2 - Gr. 7 GTAW up to 3/4" 3G 316L stainless GTAW up to 1" 3G carbon steel GTAW up to 1" 3G Hastalloy GTAW up to 3/4"1G tantalum GTAW up to .060"
Reply:That's a great welding machine.  It and 6013 are capable of an awful lot- all position, nice looking beads, and versatile.  The first welder I didn't have to borrow from Dad was an AC225 and it taught me how to weld.Take your time, get your work up on a table where you can see it if at all possible, and try about 75 or 90A.  Practice starting your arc (try both the peck and scratch start methods, they're both helpful in different situations) and maintaining your arc length as best you can.  It will come to you.Hobart Stickmate LX AC/DC, Millermatic 252 & 30A spoolgun, Thermal Arc 185 TIG, Miller BWESmith Oxy-AcBridgeport 2J , South Bend 42" 9AHusky 7.5 HP 22.3 CFM 80 gal compressor
Reply:Thanks for the feedback, guys. I really appreciate it. The 6013's were actually 3/32" and I found a 5lb box of 6011 but I ran out of practice stock before I could use them.I turned the heat down to 70 amps and I could really see a difference. I also tried striking an arc both pecking and scratching but I found it easier to keep the arc by pecking. Mr. Staley, the previous pics were indeed done on the ground as I do not have a welding table. Today I used an old workbench with a 2 foot chunk of 8"x12" .500 wall square tubing as my welding base. Being able to get my face closer also made a difference.My efforts for today: http://www.geocities.com/dan95yj/100_0419.JPG
Reply:The improvement is certainly visible!I don't have a dedicated welding table either, just a workbench made from 2x10's, 2x6's, and 4x4's with a 1/2" plate (about 14" square) inletted in the surface that's drilled & tapped for my vise on the corner.  I put as much of my work in the vise (or clamped to a big 4" x 4" piece of angle iron that's chucked in the vise) as possible so that I can see what I'm doing.Being able to see what you're doing is the first real step you can take to gaining control of the weld.  Before long, you'll figure out that you can start to shape the puddle and control it, and it'll get even better.Just my opinion:  If the 6011 you have is 1/8", use that a LOT first.  at either the 70A or 90A setting, learn to start the arc fairly repeatably and hold about a 1/8" arc length average (I find it very helpful to kind of manipulate the electrode in-and-out of the weld in the direction of the electrode) once the arc is steady to help manage the heat.  It's counter-intuitive, but keep reminding yourself that a short arc means less heat/less digging, and a long arc will spray the snot out of everything.I'm about six 10 weeks into my first welding class, and here's some pics of what I've been doing in the class (the most recent shows up first):Photobucket picture albumHere's what my welds looked like on the first day (I have been stick welding for many years, but just the occasional household project that comes along every year or two):Hobart Stickmate LX AC/DC, Millermatic 252 & 30A spoolgun, Thermal Arc 185 TIG, Miller BWESmith Oxy-AcBridgeport 2J , South Bend 42" 9AHusky 7.5 HP 22.3 CFM 80 gal compressor
Reply:dstaley- i was told on this forum in a thread about how to manipulate 6010  that the forward whip was a short arc to preheat and dig, and the move back to the puddle is a longer arc to deposit metal(spray snot). you are disagreeing about the short arc?
Reply:Nope, I've never mastered the whip technique- so I'm useless at telling you how to do it right!  I suck at whipping, plain and simple.Others can help you (and me) with that; I'm still trying to figure it out.My "whip" welds do indeed look like snot was blown all over my workpiece.  They don't look any better after brushing the slag off either.I can make purdy welds by weaving or stringing 6010/6011, but not yet by whipping.  It can be done, but I don't have a clue how it's done yet.Hobart Stickmate LX AC/DC, Millermatic 252 & 30A spoolgun, Thermal Arc 185 TIG, Miller BWESmith Oxy-AcBridgeport 2J , South Bend 42" 9AHusky 7.5 HP 22.3 CFM 80 gal compressor
Reply:Try turning the heat up a little.2 or 3 rod diameters ahead of the puddle, back in the puddle and pause.  With 6010, you can push the rod right into the puddle and the arc won't go out.  This makes the dimes for me.I don't run much 6010.DavidLast edited by David R; 04-02-2008 at 05:30 PM.Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:I don't mean to hijack, but since weldbead asked about whipping too...how long do you dwell on each end of the whipping motion?  Do you only dwell on one end or the other, and if so, which end?Thanks for the info David!Hobart Stickmate LX AC/DC, Millermatic 252 & 30A spoolgun, Thermal Arc 185 TIG, Miller BWESmith Oxy-AcBridgeport 2J , South Bend 42" 9AHusky 7.5 HP 22.3 CFM 80 gal compressor
Reply:Whip ahead and back,  pause in the puddle, do it again.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:As others have said, the 252 is a great welder.  One of my favorites.The best way to learn is to practice, ALOT.It will become natural soon enough.The Welder Shop has great deals and reviews on Hobart, Miller and Lincoln Welders.