Pulsed Spray Aluminum

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I finally got the box to hook my spoolgun to the V350.  I burned 3 lbs aluminum, and one 80 cf bottle of argon to get the hang of it.  I have pulsed spray, and pulse on pulse that makes the dimes.  The machine has to be set for type 4043, or 5356 and size .035, 3/64 and 1/16"  I tried different nozzels and ended up with 5/8 although the 3/4 worked quite well.  I figured out not to use much stick out and the bead looks cleaner.   I am guessing the black stuff is normal.  Fore hand or push is the only way I went.  I tried backhand and it made more black soot in the bead.  Here is a sample.Before clean up  The middle one had the pulse on pulse.I get cold starts.  I turned it up after the first beadReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:I still haven't figured out how to tie them off.  I tried going ahead, then back.  Pausing would be tough, the puddle is pretty fluid.an attempt at vertical up.  pulse on pulse.Gas cone Close.One day, One bottle argon, 3 lbs wire.  Both sides.  The plate is 1/4" diamond plate and the small sheet in the front is 1/8"  Mostly I used 3/64 5356.  Things change as the plate warms up.Last edited by David R; 01-30-2008 at 01:55 PM.Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Very nice ...I would love to pick up a spool gun !I don't believe I really have a need for one, but I really love tools !-Graham-Mechanical EngineerAutosport Mechanic/Fabricator
Reply:This is the one that amazed me.  I bought a 1/8" X 1" piece at Tractor supply at lunch time.  I did a fillet weld and shocked my self.  I can even repeat it.  .035 5356 pulsed spray mode.Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:I had the spoolgun from my wirematic 250.  All I needed is this box and a cable.  I up graded the nozzle.  That is the 3/4" one on the gun.Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Nice!As for crater at the end of the weld, I am sure there is a set-up called "crater fill" or so. Setting it, you will avoid that problem.By the way, pulse-on-pulse, double pulse etc... Any real benefit of that?
Reply:No set up for crater fill.  Its just go (and you better be ready   )  and stop.  The only setting is preflow which I keep as low as it goes.  Pulse on pulse seems to work ok.  I still am getting used to it.  I don't need no stinkin dimes to have a good weld.  It did seem to help vertical up and overhead.Edit, I have had this one day, never done it before.  All suggestions welcome.DavidLast edited by David R; 01-30-2008 at 02:50 PM.Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Looks great David!To combat the black, I use a 5/8" or 3/4" nozzle, recess the tip 1/8" to 1/4", turn up the gas flow, hold the nozzle close to the work during the weld and start the weld with nozzle close.  I also use a little pre-flow to cut down on black at the start.  The recessed tip helps maintain the longer spray arc length while still allowing the nozzle to be close to the work.  Brushing with a stainless wire brush before welding and between passes will also help keep down the black.  Yep, backhand will make more black, and a taller skinnier bead.  Fillets I usually weave cause a straight stringer sometimes comes out a little cold at the toes.  I use .035 4043 Alcotec and that works well on most aluminum I weld, but I don't normally weld aluminum over 1/8" thick either so maybe a 3/64 wire would work better on the thicker stuff.   I'm surprised your machine doesn't have a crater fill program.  Hmm..  Try moving the torch in a little circle at the end and finish it on top of the weld.  On thin stuff I don't use crater fill or make a circle, I just slow down the torch just before stopping and it usually ends without a crater.  If that doesn't cut it, then on the next one, I do a slight backhand just before stopping.  If still not, then on goes the crater fill feature.  The thicker stuff tends to want to crater more.   Setting the pulse with a shorter arc length adjustment will also help with the crater, but makes the black worse and the start colder if not using the hot start control.  I like to set the arc length so the wire burns in smooth and soft and use a soft inductance/puddle control setting too.You probly know all this stuff already, I can see you're welding it like the pro that you are!MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:goofy question, but does your arm or hand get tired after running the gun a while?
Reply:Can you see an advantage over just Spray.   JohnSMAW,GMAW,FCAW,GTAW,SAW,PAC/PAW/OFCand Shielding Gases.  There all here. :
Reply:No, DesertRider33, I do not know much about this.  The more I "bond" with it, the better I am getting. The irst welds were crap.  I put a knob on the spoolgun so I could turn it with a glove on and now I set the welder, then the wire speed and arc length at the gun.  What a difference.  I went back today and did some more.  Just a 2 or 3 second pause (ignore the puddle) and the craters are gone or on top of the mountain.  I did a fillet on 1/4" aluminum.  With the machine and spool gun turned all the way up and .035 5356, I got a nice looking fillet on pulsed spray.   Bigger than that, I will have to use true spray.  I tried that too.  The machine has a "Power" setting.  For small mig and spraying aluminum.  I has a scale of 1 to 14.  I sprayed the same joint on 5 with the .035 wire  and the spool gun on full tilt.  The pulsed spray weld looked much better.  I seem to have more control.I was between 20 and 36 Cfh of argon.  I was hoping you would see this.  ThanksDavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Originally Posted by weldgaultCan you see an advantage over just Spray.   John
Reply:Originally Posted by tortisgoofy question, but does your arm or hand get tired after running the gun a while?
Reply:didn't even think about the lead and hose.   that rascal has production wrote all over it
Reply:with our miller spoolgun sertup it helps to keep the gun at a lesser angle to really reduce the black.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:The pulse frequency will give you the "dimes" look if that's what you want. It doesn't really mean much to me. In spray, you are joining metal very well. If I need the dime look, I'll get out the TIG.If you insist on trying to get a nice "dime" look, play around with different pulse settings- you'll probably ruin some tips until you get it right. Also, try to lower the voltage just below the spray threshhold. You'll get a nicer dime look when out of spray, but make sure you are penetrating. When you get it right, you'll have a clean "almost TIG" look with a raised bead. You'll move much slower than in spray. When it just right, you'll have a white edge along the bead with very little black. No matter what you do, you'll always have some harmless black when migging aluminum. I like the 4xxx alloys for most work, as it's cleaner. Use pre and post flow when on and off the trigger. For the crater, you MAY be able to dial it out in time. Try the button under the spoolgun handle to see if it has any effect on the crater. Many times I find that it just happens. Just go back and fill them in with the pull of the trigger. What's nice is that you can "touch up" without cleaning the hell out of it like you do with TIG.
Reply:.035" 4043 wire. I don't remember the pulse settings, but I do remember it was not much over zero.1/8" treadplate. Attached Images
Reply:You are a welding animal.Miller Dynasty 200DX Tig Welder
Reply:to help combat the cold starts you can try giving it a warm up shot on a piece of scrap immeadiatly before you weld, I think it helps a little bit anyway.Nothing Ever Got Done By Quitting, Never Give Up.
Reply:I am also just learning to MIG alum. at work. When starting a bead, the old timer told me to not touch the wire to the part. point it where its gotta go but keep it back about 1/4" when I start that way its spraying immediately. If I start with the wire on the part it short arcs for a sec, then sprays.I am using .035 4043 Alcotec too. Miller XR torch. That stuff sure is sweet though! I never thought it would be that clean and look that good. Up until now the only MIG Alum. work I have noticed is a couple local guys murdering their snowmobile trailers.
Reply:I've never had to preheat with mig- even with 3/8". Pull the trigger and weld. One thing you'll find is with mild cleaning, it welds nicely. You don't have to clean like crazy as with TIG. If you want to increase your skill, go to Home Depot and get some 1/8" aluminum flat bar stock. I don't know what alloy it is, but is is crap to weld. If you get this stuff to weld cleanly, you'll have no problems with anything you run into.With the machine set right, you'll learn how to do a 1/4 second pause before moving after you pull the trigger. Purge for 2-3 seconds before starting a weld.After you get your settings down, you'll never TIG again unless you need a really cosmetic weld such as what I'll do on the exterior of a fire truck body or bumper.
Reply:Good reading:http://www.weldreality.com/aluminumalloys.htm
Reply:hey david try it no pulse or spray or anything just clean your material set up a tee joint,  oscillate and push the gun and wallah amazment =] we have one at school and work and ive used it a few time shaha ill try and get some pics to show you. it makes much better "dimes"but either way im not sure if you are or not but you MUST oacillate aluminum.6G zirconium 702 GTAW 2" xxheavy6G P.E.D. carbon steel GTAW 2" xxheavy3G titanium Gr. 2 - Gr. 7 GTAW up to 3/4" 3G 316L stainless GTAW up to 1" 3G carbon steel GTAW up to 1" 3G Hastalloy GTAW up to 3/4"1G tantalum GTAW up to .060"
Reply:Good info..
Reply:David, that's an interesting spool gun you have.  I've only used Miller and MK guns for aluminum.  They have the wire speed adjustment, but that would be really cool to be able to adjust the arc length at the gun too.  Arc length is the one setting I adjust the most on the machine in pulse mode.I forgot to mention about the run-in speed adjustment.  I find it helps more with aluminum to reduce the cold start hump than with steel.  About 50% run-in speed works good.Snoboarder88, I agree, holding the gun with the nozzle closer to vertical helps reduce the black, especially when backhanding.I throw the spool gun cable over my shoulder too, or cradle it in my forearm.   Pistol-grip push-pull guns are even more tiring cause of the stiff wire conduit always wanting to pull the gun in some other direction.  We hated welding with the XR pistol gun at work.  Try a Python torch sometime for push-pulling aluminum, you'll love it and probly never wanna weld with a pistol grip gun again!MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith opJust a couple notes.  This spoolgun has no run in speed.  My LN9-GMA does, but I aint pushing aluminum through a whip.DesertRider33, I set arc length by adjusting wire speed.   I try to get the wire to just not touch the puddle in pulse or pusle on pulse.  Turboblown were those welds cleaned up when you were done?  I will read the link you posted later.  Thanks to everyone. All I have for practice is what you saw in the pic.  I tried some 4043 but it and that piece did not get along at all.Between the practice and what I have learned here, I WILL get the hang of it. Next I am going to try a weave.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Originally Posted by David RJust a couple notes.  This spoolgun has no run in speed.  My LN9-GMA does, but I aint pushing aluminum through a whip.DesertRider33, I set arc length by adjusting wire speed.   I try to get the wire to just not touch the puddle in pulse or pusle on pulse.  Turboblown were those welds cleaned up when you were done?  I will read the link you posted later.  Thanks to everyone. All I have for practice is what you saw in the pic.  I tried some 4043 but it and that piece did not get along at all.Between the practice and what I have learned here, I WILL get the hang of it. Next I am going to try a weave.David
Reply:Matt1978,Pulsed spray is high and low current at about 200+ Hz.  High current of 400 amps and low of 20 to 40 amps.Pulse on pulse has another high pulse on top of the original.  It changes the pulsed current to make the dimes is the only way I can explain it.  When welding, the wire is long and short as  you go.  The arc changes lengths.Here is a 1/4" fillet I did today.  I turned the dimes off.  It seems to work better with out them.Any "dimes" you see are just from me shaking or what got laid down.  DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Originally Posted by David RMatt1978,Pulsed spray is high and low current at about 200+ Hz.  High current of 400 amps and low of 20 to 40 amps.Pulse on pulse has another high pulse on top of the original.  It changes the pulsed current to make the dimes is the only way I can explain it.  When welding, the wire is long and short as  you go.  The arc changes lengths.Here is a 1/4" fillet I did today.  I turned the dimes off.  It seems to work better with out them.Any "dimes" you see are just from me shaking or what got laid down.  David
Reply:The dimes look with mig means nothing. Good penetration is achieved without that look. In fact, when I do a pulse, it builds up higher and looks "TIG like", but doesn't seem to penetrate as well. Most of my MIG is with no pulse. I just used pulse today on radio racks that I was building just to get "the look."To answer your question about post cleaning....no. I did not clean the welds at all afterwards. Once you're dialed in, you'll have them clean and shiny after welding.Every time I change base metal type or thickness, I ALWAYS play with a piece of scrap to get the setup. Even if you mark your settings, they will never be right when you try to duplicate them with the dials. I taught myself just from playing with it over and over. If you have pulse, leang aluminum MIG with pulse. If you don't then you switch to pulse, you'll have to learn all over again.
Reply:Thank you turboblown.  Here is one done with "dimes on" (pulse on pulse)  I don't think it is as good of a weld either.  It did come out pretty clean.  This is before clean up.The diamonds in the plate screw up the arc length. DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:It's getting there. You'll have it in no time since you are already good at steel. Once I learned the few tricks for aluminum, I caught on fast. Also, I never weave on Al. I point the wire in at about 45 degrees and go straight. It's a fine window of adjustment between frequency and wire speed. I usually keep the voltage at about 26.5V for under 1/4" and about 28V for over and do all other adjustments with strictly frequency and wire speed. I'm still waiting to try my buddy's new Lincoln with the pulse-on-pulse and push/pull gun. It's supposed to be fabulous. I've seen welds done on this machine once set up properly and it really does look like it was TIG except the dimes have a little bit less than smooth edges. I want one. I'm now on a mission to find the THE best thin gauge (.080-.250) aluminum pulse MIG machine for my next toy and it's looking like the Lincoln. With software upgradable pulse schedules, the welds are only going to look better with each software revision.Some will argue to just TIG the job, but when you can get the same look and quality in 1/5 the time and need less pre-cleaning, why would you? I can get nice welds with my Esab that has a basic pulse module so I can imagine what something modern could do. With Aluminum Mig, even a very good weldor can only make the bead look so good. Unlike many other types of welding, the magic really is in the machine and adjustment to make it look good (that is, after you learn the process).David, get 2 pieces of 3/8" or 1/2" Alum about 8-12" long and try to pulse-spray weld them together either as a butt joint or 90 degree. See how long it takes. Now...how long would that take with TIG? No pre-heating and you don't have to really make it super clean. Just mildly scratch it with your SS wire brush and go. You'll find the same thing with castings such as OEM intake manifolds. Pull the trigger and go. It will look nicer if TIGged, but in a production shop or for repair, is that really necessary? Once I caught on, I rarely use TIG anymore except for somewhere that needs to be "perfect", although I'm still far from that on TIG.
Reply:Very nice pics and info.  Good job David!
Reply:Originally Posted by turboblownGood reading:http://www.weldreality.com/aluminumalloys.htm