newbies tig pictures, corrective criticism appriciated

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Heres some tig pictures from the last few weeks. They are getting better. I have been noticening when doing a lap weld that the tungston wants to stay on one side of the aluminum or the other but not both at the same time. Using 3/32 pure tungston gas at 20 and 3/32 4043 filler. Today when trying to weld the filler was balling up and turning brown just like everything else. Thanks for your time and Ill keep practicing. Attached Imageslincoln sp100miller syncrOwave 200 matobo grinders6 different torches for display  Learning the trade
Reply:and this on for the hall of shame. Attached Imageslincoln sp100miller syncrOwave 200 matobo grinders6 different torches for display  Learning the trade
Reply:"Today when trying to weld the filler was balling up and turning brown just like everything else."In the beginning, you can try Scotchbrite-ing your filler. That brown balling is probably the oxides on the filler. And you can't melt the filler with the arc; that has to happen in the puddle.Bottom pic looks like mild steel? If so, you can't weld mill scale with TIG. Even if you polish it up to look like chrome with a wire wheel on a 4 1/2" grinder. I use a flap disk.Another TIG tip: when I have things right, like at the start of a clean weld, my arc is almost white. When, for instance, a mill scale spark hits my tungsten; the arc turns green. QUIT, it ain't gonna get any better. You must stop and regind your tungsten. And if there's a bulge on the end of your tungsten (between the tip and the collet), it's gotta go. That's contamination and it won't weld.Last edited by Craig in Denver; 04-08-2008 at 10:23 PM.9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250
Reply:A little thing I learned while working on my first production TIG project this week.  I was welding mild steel and the puddle was moving along very nicely and then it seemed to stop.  I added more heat, tried dipping the filler and come to find out the tungsten got dipped and I did not notice it.I put a new tungsten in and the puddle took off again.  This is a good thing to remember because in the past I would keep trying to push the puddle, add more heat and filler and sometimes you can get to the end of the weld, but wait until you look at it. It's amazing what a nice clean tungsten will do for your welds.  Even the smallest particle on the tip of the tungsten can cause problems.Build a Barstool Racer at BarFlyRacers.com!
Reply:all pictures are aluminum. I was wondering about my filler rod. I'm still learning. It is oxidized and it seems to be some of the problem. I have heard of cleaning everything with accitone or denatured alcohol. I have some alcohol and started using it. Thanks for scotchbrite tip. I also keep trying to use the tungsten for filler. Doesnt work too well(beating head on solid block wall).lincoln sp100miller syncrOwave 200 matobo grinders6 different torches for display  Learning the trade
Reply:This all applies to aluminum. When welding Im still learning preperation process. When trying to get puddle going it starts sizilling and turns dark grey and has a lot of contamination in it. Black spots. If I try adding more heat it just goesnt get a puddle anymore and starts melting in a blob on the back side. Like metal sag. What causes this ,how can I keep it from happening and how is it fixed when it does happen. Grind big spot and add patch? Its gonna happen some more.drinkup:Smashing glass on head)lincoln sp100miller syncrOwave 200 matobo grinders6 different torches for display  Learning the trade
Reply:Clean the Aluminum better before you weld, it makes a BIG difference.  Get a small Stainless Steel wire brush and accitone.  Wet the brush in the accitone and clean the area keeping it wet. Now wipe it all clean with more accitone.Me!
Reply:For a dumb question. Where can I find accitone. Do I need gloves. Will denatured alcohol be just as good? I was told some stuff called tuline may work also.Spelling may be wrongLast edited by Hott Racing; 04-08-2008 at 11:11 PM.lincoln sp100miller syncrOwave 200 matobo grinders6 different torches for display  Learning the trade
Reply:There's no need for degreasing (unless the metal is greasy) but if it makes you feel better...A stainless brush/scotchbrite for removing the oxide is all that's needed for clean materialDenatured alcohol would work, as would any solvent that doesn't leave a residue- make sure all solvents have evaporated before welding, some can give off some nasty gases (phosgene from chlorinated solvents for example)You'll probably have more luck finding acetone . DO NOT keep acetone around the welding area!!!The filler will ball up before it reaches the puddle if the filler/torch angles are incorrect. Have a read here http://www.millerwelds.com/education...tips/TIG_tips/ there's diagrams showing the proper realtionship between torch and filler angles
Reply:Originally Posted by Hott RacingI'm still learning.
Reply:Best advice: get a small tripod. It'll make your pictures much easier to understand.
Reply:Thanks for all of your advise. Ill spend more time on preperation. And keep practicing.lincoln sp100miller syncrOwave 200 matobo grinders6 different torches for display  Learning the trade
Reply:Stainless brush is all you need.  This is a forum and you're gonna get lots of different answers but this works fine for me.DewayneDixieland WeldingMM350PLincoln 100Some torchesOther misc. tools
Reply:Can't see much detail in the pics but the prep looks fine- the more successful welds look clean enoughThe sooty deposits are a result of contaminating the tungsten (touching it to the weld, sticking the filler into the arc or tungsten). The 'blued' tungsten suggests you need more post flow (and/or stop pulling the torch away immediately after finishing a weld)All you need is lots of practice, pay attention to torch/filler angles, arc length and don't try and continue after contaminating a tungsten
Reply:Originally Posted by hotrodderThe 'blued' tungsten suggests you need more post flow
Reply:The shielding gas isn't attached to anything, it's just flowing around the tungsten. Yank the torch away immediately and the flow can be disrupted enough to expose the tungsten to atmosphere. While a gas lens reduces the likelyhood of it occuring, more stickout = more chance of it happening.There probably wasn't enough stickout in this case to cause that amount of oxidation alone, i just mentioned it as pulling the torch away immediately can become a bad habit. Aside from protecting the tungsten the post flow also protects the weld- not that big a deal in this case but important for some alloys
Reply:Originally Posted by hotrodderThe shielding gas isn't attached to anything, it's just flowing around the tungsten. Yank the torch away immediately and the flow can be disrupted enough to expose the tungsten to atmosphere.
Reply:Originally Posted by MozBest advice: get a small tripod. It'll make your pictures much easier to understand.
Reply:I agree with him that said a wire brush is all you need to clean the aluminum. Aluminum needs a brushing , and if you do not use it right after the brushing, you should clean it again. Aluminum will build oxidation in a couple of hours. I think TIG is the most difficult process to master, but you are sticking with it. Alot of good points were made, keep the filler out of the arc, keep your tungsten clean, post flow exists for your benefit, use it. And above all, enjoy yourself! Frustration and anxiety will not improve your performance. You are off to a fine start.Good welding.
Reply:Thanks for your help. This tig stuff is hard. When Im practicing this isnt to bad. So I was working on a project and it gets difficult. I made a basket for the front of my walk behind mower. Welding lap welds and but welds arent to bad when they are laying down,but the out of position is difficult. This is only the 3rd project Ive done. Took a while and mig would have been easier but I cant learn with that. My aluminum is 1/8 ,tungston is 3/32 gas flow 20cfm and 1/8 filler . heat was between 110 and 125 depending on position. My torch is a wp17. Ill post some pics on projects. Im trying to get good enough for some tube.lincoln sp100miller syncrOwave 200 matobo grinders6 different torches for display  Learning the trade
Reply:acetone is available at home depot paint department, $16 a gallon  or $7 a quart
Reply:One other thing, when using the ss wire brush it is generally recommended to brush in one direction only as the back and forth motion of the bristles is said to force the oxide into the pores of the aluminum. I don't know this to be a fact, since I am no scientists and I lost the lens to my microscope.SA200,Ranger8,Trailblazer251NT,MM250,Dayton225AC,T  D-XL75,SpoolMate3545SGA100C,HF-15-1  RFCS-14 When I stick it, it stays stuck!
Reply:"gas flow 20cfm"Nit pickin': I think it's 20cfh (per hour)Rocky D on the Hobart site says alum welds good at 15cfh. It'll save ya a little.9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250
Reply:Originally Posted by Hott RacingThis all applies to aluminum. When welding Im still learning preperation process. When trying to get puddle going it starts sizilling and turns dark grey and has a lot of contamination in it. Black spots. If I try adding more heat it just goesnt get a puddle anymore and starts melting in a blob on the back side. Like metal sag. What causes this ,how can I keep it from happening and how is it fixed when it does happen. Grind big spot and add patch? Its gonna happen some more.drinkup:Smashing glass on head)