Filler rod storage

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How crucial is it that filler rods are stored in an air tight container? I saw these neat "rod guard"  containers on the internet but my LWS doesn't have them. Their answer was "huh? why would you want that?"I don't have room for 8 million of these, so can I combine a few rod types? I will have aluminum, S/S, a few mild steel, plus some silicon bronze that came with my machine.I presume different alloys of the same material can be stored together, but beyond that can I consolodate more? Maybe stainless in with the Aluminum?
Reply:Whoa!!! Don't mix the stainless with the alum, they look the same. How will ya know which one you chose?I use 1" pvc tubes (or what ever diameter suits your needs) with a cap on the back end. A felt tip marks the contents of each tube. Each rod gets a tube. You could put .040, 1/16, 3/32 and 1/8 in the same tube.I never cared if the tube was air tight.9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250
Reply:Some rods like E7018 and E12018 are "Low Hydrogen" to keep hydrogen embrittlement from occurring when welding sensitive steels; water breaks down to give up hydrogen so these need to be very dry for those applications. For code work, there are specs on this. Also, I think that some of the aluminum rods have a flux which will be reactive if too much water is present, and this can lead to either the flux becoming chalky and flaking off, or even corroding the aluminum.Other rods such as E6011 probably do better when not absolutely dry. That has cellulose in the coating.For critical applications, rods like 7018 need to be kept in an oven, or at least kept sealed most of the time and re-dried when that minimal exposure still lets them hydrate.I have  a collection of military ammo cans which include a few that are slightly over 14 inches tall; I use these to store most of my rod in, including a 50# box of 7016 that was discarded by someone (who apparently opened the wrong box and ???)I have seen the commercial holders you describe, but think the PVC type are fine for most applications, and very much cheaper too.I should mention  that the humidity here isn't much problem. I had an uncle in N. Carolina where the air moisture level seemed just short of "rain" and everything either rusted or corroded in about two days.     [The 7018 still needs proecting, though.]
Reply:I think the OP referred to filler, and not to electrodes, but I may be wrong.My LWS gave me a few of the plastic containers that 10lb bunches of rods come in, for free.  Just need to be nice.     PVC pipe is just as good, and some people have glued threaded adapters on one end, put together a threaded cap for the end, and capped the other.I don't know why people buy those expensive rod holders.  Maybe with a shoulder strap, they're good for carrying rod far out in a site.  I just don't get it.Any container is fine, if it can keep the rods dry.
Reply:Originally Posted by Craig in DenverWhoa!!! Don't mix the stainless with the alum, they look the same. How will ya know which one you chose?I use 1" pvc tubes (or what ever diameter suits your needs) with a cap on the back end. A felt tip marks the contents of each tube. Each rod gets a tube. You could put .040, 1/16, 3/32 and 1/8 in the same tube.I never cared if the tube was air tight.
Reply:I have a habit of only taking rods out of my holders, but not replacing them.When I'm left with a piece shorter than the original length, it gets placed on a spot on my workbench, and is left for the next time I'm using that filler (short pieces just get lost in the bottom of my containers otherwise).  Its a luxury of always welding around the same bench.Since I've mostly just got 308L, 4043, ER70-S2, and silphos, and never have more than one of each out at a time, it doesn't get confusing for me.My 4043's and 308L's LOOK quite similar, but the plasticity of the aluminum, and springiness of the stainless is quite evident, as soon as you pick one up.Anyway, ALL of my TIG fillers (unlike the silphos), are marked clearly with the alloy.The 308L is printed on each foot, the 4043 is stamped (really tiny letters, but readable nonetheless), and my ER70-S2 is stamped on each end (so I try to only weld from one end, so as to preserve one stamp, until I'm done with the rod).
Reply:Originally Posted by OldtimerI've used 1" PVC tubes for a lot of years. I glue the cap on one end so I can stand the tubes up and the cap won't fall off when I pick the tube up. I stick a cap on the other end just to keep things clean. I also label them with a marking pen. Great minds think alike, huh?I was going to make a smarta$$ remark about how to tell aluminum rods from SS but I won't. Don't want you to take it the wrong way.
Reply:Originally Posted by OldtimerI was going to make a smarta$$ remark about how to tell aluminum rods from SS but I won't. Don't want you to take it the wrong way.
Reply:I'm not oldtimer, but I can tell the difference as soon as I pick them up. Big difference in weight. That rod tube that holds ten lbs of 1/16 MS would only hold 5 lbs of AL. I didn't think about that when I ordered the tubes so UPS really liked me, lol.The tubes work really well for Tig and O/A rods. They work pretty good on covered electrodes as well, but they won't replace a sealed can or an oven. Over time they still pick up humidity.The difference between art and craft is the quality of the workmanship. I am an artist.
Reply:Originally Posted by Craig in DenverWhat's 'silphos'? Since I sharpen my tungsten from both ends, I WAS welding from both ends of my rod. I'm learning this is a bad idea. Also, you have to be able to SEE the marking on the filler.
Reply:Craig, I was going to say you should be able to tell just by picking one up cause SS is a lot heavier than aluminum.