My very first SS tig welds

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I was out in one of the shops this afternoon and saw one of the fab guys washing in some of another guys mig beads to fix some leaks in a new water trap for the shop air in our new addition and I decided I was finally going to give it a go with a tig torch.  Up until now I've only been an observer and have really wanted to learn to tig for years but have never been able to take the time to do so even when some have offered to help.So tonight after I left the office, out to the shop I went and spent some time on my own trying desperately to recall as much of what I've read and learned here and gave it a go.This was the setup:Welder: Lincoln Tig 300/300 AC/DC (code 9104C)Polarity: DCENAmps: High 37/215Current Control: 5 (flat) & 3.5 (fillet), flat pedel once arc startedAfter Flow: 1/8Soft Start: OffGas: 100% ArgonHF Control: Max (forgot to check first and didn't realize until recording settings)Torch: Weldcraft WP-18 water cooledTungsten: 1/8" pure, ground to point (I believe pure - couldn't tell as it had been cut at both ends and 2% thoriated is in the bin too) Cup: #12  (it's what was on the torch)Material: Formed piece - 3/16" 304, flat piece 1/8" 304Filler: 1/16" 306/306L (at least that's what it looked like - hard to read)Observations:1) Borrowed a hood that just wasn't cuttin' it (too dark) so I borrowed another that I could see good through but headgear just wasn't right for me and you just don't mess with another weldor's hood.  Next time bring my own hood.2) Didn't clear off a table to set up on so positioning sucked.  Very awkward and uncomfortable.  Difficult if not impossible to get proper support.  Next time take time to get good working positioning.With that said:Top two flat welds were w/o fillerTop bead is actually two runsBottom two were first attempt with fillerSecond from bottom got carried away with filler (didn't pull out)Nitt-noid to the left above bottom bead resulted in re-grinding tungstenNeed to add filler at the end to avoid divot?Started to hit it with wire brush when done but stopped to leave 'after weld' coloring for your analysisBackside photo for your analysis.Fire away and thanks in advance for your critiques.Duane Attached ImagesMM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:duane, I can only say, since I haven't tig welded before, that I hope my first runs are that good ....nice!
Reply:Not bad.The filler was most likely 308/308L, as that is a common one and is the recommended filler for working on 304 (and some other 'low' 300 stainless alloys).Yes you have to add filler to avoid a "divot" aka ending crater.  That and dance the pedal slowly towards off instead of just going STOP.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Yea but do ya think it'll make ZTFab envious?It was super hard to make out the stamping on the rod so I'm sure you're completely right on the 308/308L.  Didn't stand a chance reading the number on the other side without a magnifying glass.Sure enough - just let completely off although I did hold the torch there during post flow for purging.  I'm sure you'd be able to tell alot more if you could see it up close.  The photos aren't that great.ThanksMM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Yes Duane I will be happy if my first tig welds look that good. Keep practicing and posting the pictures!Miller Thunderbolt 225Millermatic 130 XPLincoln HD 100 Forney C-5bt Arc welderPlasma Cutter Gianteach Cut40ACent Machinery Bandsaw Cent Machinery 16Speed Drill PressChicago Electric 130amp tig/90 ArcHobart 190 Mig spoolgun ready
Reply:Its a good start. Instead of maxing the pedal, use it to weld.  Turn the heat up and "Use" the pedal.Control the heat as you weld.  Watch the puddle.  You basically got it.  Get comfy, Be able to see, but you already know these two things.Keep at it and show more!DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Originally Posted by David RIts a good start. Instead of maxing the pedal, use it to weld.  Turn the heat up and "Use" the pedal.Control the heat as you weld.  Watch the puddle.  You basically got it.  Get comfy, Be able to see, but you already know these two things.Keep at it and show more!David
Reply:Looking good Duane.  WP18 is a big torch. If you plan on doing more tig welding, I'd look for a WP20.  Much smaller and easy to hold/manage.   Also, I believe 1/8" electrode is little big for the thickness of the metal you're working on.   Otherwise, you're doing very well.  CharlesMillermatic Passport PlusMillermatic 200Millermatic 350P with PythonXMT 304 /w S-64 feeder and 12RCDynasty 300 DXVictor O/APremier Power Welder for my trail junk.
Reply:Thanks Charles - good to hear from you.It's a unit at work and I just picked it up the way it was, made a minor curent control adjustment and gave it a wack.  It is a big torch and that #12 cup was a bear on that fillet.  I had to move the tungsten out to about 3/8" in order to keep a short arc and still be able to see.There's no telling when I'll get time to give it another stab which is why I wish I had my own tig at the house.  If I did I'd be flowin' argon right now instead of typing.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55Thanks Charles - good to hear from you.It's a unit at work and I just picked it up the way it was, made a minor curent control adjustment and gave it a wack.  It is a big torch and that #12 cup was a bear on that fillet.  I had to move the tungsten out to about 3/8" in order to keep a short arc and still be able to see.There's no telling when I'll get time to give it another stab which is why I wish I had my own tig at the house.  If I did I'd be flowin' argon right now instead of typing.
Reply:seems a little hot but its a good start.  Keep trying to learn the peddle and you wont have any problems.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55It is a big torch and that #12 cup was a bear on that fillet.  I had to move the tungsten out to about 3/8" in order to keep a short arc and still be able to see.
Reply:Originally Posted by Craig in DenverOk, Duane, I cry foul. Think about it for a minute; recommended stick-out is 1/2 cup diameter. So, even if you have a 10" diameter cup (5" stick-out), the tungsten will still reach the root of your fillet weld. AND, the physics of the joint contain your argon, so more stick-out won't affect coverage. If I could draw a pic in this freakin' puter, I would. It's clear in my empty head.  I'm a self taught TIG'er and I've spent years stumbling over simple things like this.My instructor set my tungsten at about 3/8" stick-out, with a 3/8" cup. So, with a #12 cup, that's 3/4" stick-out. NO, that's not what I think is OK, but it sure opens up doors. Something else I think I know; set your stick-out short enough that you can't dip it in the puddle!!  I weld more now and dip less. I've also learned 'walking the cup', used with a short S-O. Well, I don't walk it as much as rest it on the surface and slide it along. IMHO and YMMV  No, it doesn't stick in the puddle. That pink stuff (cup), is pretty remarkable.
Reply:For fillets,  I set the tungstes so it almost reaches the root.  Then Its harder to dip it, but I do a lot of dipping anyhow.For the 1/8" electrode, I usually use one size bigger than I need because I can SEE it better.A few things I learned.  1/8" takes more time to sharpen, 3/32 will do most anything under 250 amps.  1/8" will do small welds with a sharp point, but the arc is wider.  I have no trouble starting the arc with a bigger tungsten.  Touch start, or Electronic start (sort of Hi Feq)DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Fillets form a natural 'trap' for the argon (well sometimes anyway) so good gas coverage is generally easily obtained compared to say, an outside corner or small diameter pipe buttsMy world is generally thin (single pass) material, thicker stuff is usually aluminium/Al castings so i rarely do any cup walking. Larger cups can help when walking thoughStick out... don't go nuts over an exact distance. You obviously need enough to reach the weld with a sensible arc length/be able to see what you're doing, just avoid excessive amounts. Sometimes (think tube frame type work) you need a HUGE stickout to reach. There are small dia, long reach cups available that sometimes help, often you're better off 'damming' up the area and going with a large gas lens and huge stickout-  more preflow/an extra argon line to compensateAs David said, use the joint as a guide to set the stickoutDuane,Something to watch for is not keeping the end of the filler within the gas shield- easy way to get a dirty weld. Have a look at the end of the filler after ending a weld, it's colour will tell you a lot