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Hi there,Could anyone take a look at my fillet welds and tell me if I'm doing things right?I've been sticking for ~ 6 months and have a small job to do at my work that requires strong fillets on 8mm plate. They will basically be a series of brackets that needs to hold ~ 300Lbs each and I need to do 9 of them. Don't what they are for but that's what I was told. Note: These will be welded to structural I beams.These are on 8mm plate running 2.5mm 6013 @ 120A in the horizontal positionStraight run and no weaving. I just let the rod do the work and I kept up to the slag puddle.Thanks for any help Support Bacteria - It's the only culture some people have!
Reply:The weld looks good from here. I would grind the plate cleaner and a little further back from where I am going to weld. (at least 1/4")David Real world weldin. When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:I think they look fine too. I also second what David said regarding the mill scale.Have a nice dayhttp://www.weldingdata.com/
Reply:Weld looks great. Ditto on removing the mill scale. Under Xray, you'd probably have lots of imperfections. For general handman repairs, weld is good.
Reply:Watch your electrode angle at the start. If it was truly consistent from start to finish, you may need to bump your amps up to get rid of that excess convexity.
Reply:distractor,As others have mentioned your welds look good. As far as making strong welds, typically a fillet will not be detailed as being thicker than the base metal. Any larger will not add strength. You have mentioned 8mm (5/16") and that it will need to hold 300#'s. An 8mm fillet made with a E70XX electrode will have a weld strength of 9.28 kips (thousand #'s) at two inches in length. FYIpaweldor,Typically a fillet weld will only be inspected with MT (mag) or PT (penetrant). Due to geometry you can not UT it and because of the need to place the film in intimate contact and the source on the other side you can not RT it either. FYI
Reply:Thanks everyone. I feel confident now that it will hold.I have gotten the hang of most procedures since I started welding and am finding trouble the most with electrode angle (as mentioned). It'll come to me in time. These were practice plates I did at home that were painted blue, so no mill scale here and hence, minimal preparation.How do people get those great looking convex fillets?I've tried almost every way I can think of and I still end up with either a flat or convex fillet!Support Bacteria - It's the only culture some people have!
Reply:A fillet should be flat or slightly convex.David Real world weldin. When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Ok. I looked, Now what.
Reply:I agree with David, they should be slightly convex.City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:The weld looks good, just remember that to be of the proper strength, the leg size of a fillet weld needs to equal the thickness of the base metal. If one of the pieces is thinner then the other, then you would go with the thickness of the thinner piece. You may need to do multiple passes to accomplish that. When you do multiple pass fillet welds, you would run the 2nd bead in the bottom toe of the first bead at a 70 degree angle, and then your 3rd bead in the top toe of the first bead at a 30 degree angle. If you need to run another layer on top of that, you'd use 3 beads with angles of 70, 45, then 30.No matter how many layers you add, the goal is to maintain a fillet that is flat. SLIGHTLY concave or convex is OK, but too much either way is bad.Lincoln Idealarc 250Lincoln Weldanpower CC/CV engine driveLincoln LN-25 wire feederMiller Syncrowave 180 SDVarious oxy-fuel setups featuring Victor, Harris, and Prest-o-lite products
Reply:Originally Posted by qaqcdistractor,As others have mentioned your welds look good. As far as making strong welds, typically a fillet will not be detailed as being thicker than the base metal. Any larger will not add strength. You have mentioned 8mm (5/16") and that it will need to hold 300#'s. An 8mm fillet made with a E70XX electrode will have a weld strength of 9.28 kips (thousand #'s) at two inches in length. FYIpaweldor,Typically a fillet weld will only be inspected with MT (mag) or PT (penetrant). Due to geometry you can not UT it and because of the need to place the film in intimate contact and the source on the other side you can not RT it either. FYI
Reply:Go1lum,Maybe it is something I'm not familiar with. Can you give some code references for RT and UT of fillets. I can't remember seeing any. Thanks
Reply:weld looks good, however if u would like to beef up the weld for support n strength, run 2 more passes on each side of ur first weld, overlapping into the middle of ur first bead, or u can always add gussets as well. hope it helps take care!
Reply:Originally Posted by Go1lumYou can do UT and RT fillet welds. For UT what layer of film are you talking about. There is couplant and a transducer. the weld is examined on a a screen. (like a fish finder) |
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