rotiller stand that rolls around design ideas?

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I own a 50" Land Pride PTO rototiller, it goes on the 3 point hitch on my tractor and works fine. To move and attach it I grab the top link with the cherry picker and hook up the bottom two and the PTO and then the top,  that isn't too bad.  To remove it I try to set the thing down,  Now what?  It is top heavy and Heavy, it is unbalanced and to make it worse,  I have the blades offset a foot to the right to get a clean cut. The "feet" or sliders are not on the center of gravity so it WILL rotate quickly and fall over if you just set it down let go the picker and touch it.  This is dangerous and it ends up a beaten up mass on the ground, difficult to work. Ok, so I'm thinking build a roll around stand with steel wheels.  I would like it maybe a  foot off the ground so I can clean the guts/blades with the pressure washer etc.   I tried to simply set it on two jackstands at the shaft... nope, the shafts not locked so it rotates right now... d@#$ near killed this slow old man.  So, I got the steel wheels, and I'm scratching my head.  Seems best to do something at the ends but that is where the enclosed gearing is behind a stamped pan... hmmm I'm listening? coupla pics enclosed, I do have the support pole installed right front, useless!  A pic also for a similar one with a"kickstand" designed to remove your toes as it falls I figure? enjoy, Papa" still has his feet barely" Lionps: no wise cracks about me putting it in a shopping cart either, this is not a welder... won't fit in a shopping cart Attached ImagesLast edited by PapaLion; 03-26-2010 at 06:45 PM.Lincoln Power MIG 215Lincoln WeldPak 3200HDLincon ProCut 25Lincoln WeldanPower 225 AC/DCIf all else fails... buy more tools
Reply:We had a 3 point tiller/shredder on the farm......... 18' wide ran off the PTO of the tractor.On both ends we had a trailer jack we could drop down to release tension on the arms of the tractor to unhook it.  Looking at the top picture, it's similar to that, except ours we could crank down just like on a trailer.  We would also set the backside of the tiller/shredder on a couple blocks of wood (old railroad ties) to keep the tines off the ground.  It was heavy enough it didn't move about.You might try something like that, or even a sliding pipe that pins down like the one on the top picture.MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:yeh...was gonna suggest a couple of bulldog jacks...could build a cradle the tiller sts in..mount the wheels on the ends..tongue from the back to move it...like a sideways header cart...Lincoln Weldpak 100Miller Maxstar 150Cutmaster 82Victor OA torch set...somewhere around here...
Reply:how bout mounting a reciever on both ends and then making a wheel assembly that slides in and gets pinned.  One for each side.  I'd scribble up a pic, but my scanner is hooked to the other computer right now.  Maybe later....My name's not Jim....
Reply:I'd build something like a furniture dolly with 4 caster wheels, built high enough so you can set the tiller on the cart and hook it back up  without tension on the hitch points. Make it to support the tiller in at least 4 points so it will stay balanced on the cart, then with a t-handle you could manuever the cart into position to hook up or disconnect.MAC WS1110 Mig WelderWoodworker HobbyistDelta 10" Table Saw, Delta Planer, Bosch and Craftsman Routers, 48" Craftsman Lathe, drill press, 1/2" hand and cordless drills, scroll saw, skill saws, jig saws, etc, and too many hand tools to list, lol
Reply:I'm going to take some more close up pics this weekend... All these ideas seem in the right direction. The end result will be  a cart of sorts with a handle to roll it around.Lincoln Power MIG 215Lincoln WeldPak 3200HDLincon ProCut 25Lincoln WeldanPower 225 AC/DCIf all else fails... buy more tools
Reply:The carrier I have in mind would be a hybrid between an engine cradle/stand and a cherry picker.  I'm figuring to add  steel rings with a bolt forged into them on top and then capture it with 4 chains near the corners.  I figure to hoist it using the chains with an engine cradle/stand kinda thing  that has a small cherry picker arm incorporated to lift the four chains.  It only needs to raise and lower about a foot max. Then once suspended lower it onto the engine cradle/stand part and bolt it down till next use.  Still open to improvements? Attached ImagesLast edited by PapaLion; 03-28-2010 at 06:55 PM.Lincoln Power MIG 215Lincoln WeldPak 3200HDLincon ProCut 25Lincoln WeldanPower 225 AC/DCIf all else fails... buy more tools
Reply:I have made some progress this week on this thing.  I chose to modify an extra engine stand and add a built in small cherry picker arm to lift the tiller: To grab the rototiller... I have a receiver which  I am going to BOLT to the rototiller after adding some clamps. This way it can be slid/moved on the rototiller if needbe.To begin I'm building a platform for the hydraulic unit on the engine stand. Next, I'll  add a 2x2 channel for the cherry picker style arm.  So, the 2" arm/bar goes in the receiver mounted on the rototiller, the small hydraulic unit lifts it  a few inches and voila we got it on the engine stand.  Pics next week, I ran outa floppy space on the camera.Last edited by PapaLion; 04-02-2010 at 09:03 PM.Lincoln Power MIG 215Lincoln WeldPak 3200HDLincon ProCut 25Lincoln WeldanPower 225 AC/DCIf all else fails... buy more tools
Reply:Rototiller stand is about 1/2 way done now.  Welding was with my Mig 215 using innercore .035 with settings on "D' and slower speeds around 150.   As you can see I really NEEeeeED to go to this beginner welding class at the JC this summer. I'm looking forward to improving. I'm tuff skinned and can use comments and direction of course.It is made from an older engine stand and a small hydraulic jack and will work kind of like a cherry picker. Attached ImagesLincoln Power MIG 215Lincoln WeldPak 3200HDLincon ProCut 25Lincoln WeldanPower 225 AC/DCIf all else fails... buy more tools
Reply:Just slow down on the travel speed & watch the puddle.  Wash the puddle onto both sides of the joint & it will stack up like it should.MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:I was thinking less amps maybe, turn down a little... seems like I'm running hotter to get penetration but in the process if the wire speed is 2-300 then the puddle builds up and I get a blob... So I try cooler and it doesn't penetrate enough? Appreciate it amigo.. that thought of letting it wash up not push or swirl it up on the sides.Go look at the hat thing and pick one if UR ready  Joker want one too?, we'll all place as one order.. "Yuma Weldor or Yuma Weldors"  I dunno, what do U like best.Last edited by PapaLion; 04-13-2010 at 11:14 PM.Lincoln Power MIG 215Lincoln WeldPak 3200HDLincon ProCut 25Lincoln WeldanPower 225 AC/DCIf all else fails... buy more tools
Reply:Looks like 1/4" to me.  Keep the heat up & slow the travel speed a bit.  Your settings sound good, just a bit fast on the travel speed.  I bet if you try that on some scrap, you will see the difference.MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build