I though aluminum TIG was hard?

admin

I am the proud new owner of a Miller Dynasty 200DX!!! It is replacing my indestructible but oh-so-NOT-portable 1979 DIalarc HF.The Dialarc is the only AC TIG machine I've ever run, and it welds aluminum ok but it is a PITA. I always just thought it was cuz aluminum is hard. So last night I am packing up to go to bed, and I think "heel, let's just try the AC on this thing and see if it'll buzz this scrap 1/4" together. So I just guessed some random settings and let it rip. This is my very first attempt and also with NO foot pedal (you can see it was getting too hot on my at the end, I suck with the hand amptrol).
Reply:Congratulations on the new machine.Dynasty's are the bomb for welding aluminum.  I have the Dynasty 300, and I used to run 75/25 He/Ar for AC welding on aluminum, but with the Dynasty I get better results with just straight argon.Seriously consider getting a footpedal, I honestly don't know how I would weld anymore without one.Again, congrats, and have fun.Regards, KbnitI r 2 a perfessional
Reply:Thanks! I am so happy to finally have one.And oh yeah, the pedal is on order. The dialarc has a footpedal and it what I'm used to.It is really wierd without it, I keep searching around for it with my foot. I swear 200amps at 80hz, 75% wave balance on the dynasty is way more "power" than 250+amps on the sine wave machine. And the cleanining action is better.
Reply:I also have a Dynasty 200DX and it is definitely the best GTAW machine I have ever used. I've used Lincoln inverters, Lincoln transformers, Miller transformers, ESAB transformers, and Chinese import inverters, and the Dynasty beats the pants of all of 'em. I think the only thing better than a Dynasty 200DX is a Dynasty 300 or 700 (though I've never used one).If you like 80Hz on the AC frequency, crank it up to 250Hz, its even better. It gives you a very focused arc, and is where I keep mine set all the time.Also, what type of electrode are you using? I really like using 2% Ceriated (color code orange) on my machine but am thinking about trying out some 1.5% Lanthanated (color code gold) later on. (Whatever you do, for the love of all that is good and holy, keep pure tungsten the hell away from that machine.)Visit Tensaiteki.com
Reply:dynasty 700 is gods gift to welding, AMAZING machine.  I believe frequency is adjustable to 400hz.
Reply:They just bought a dynasty 700 where I work so I could weld some 1 1/2" thick aluminum parts. Was running about 350 amps with 5/32 tungsten 5356 filler. Damn nice machine that has tons of adjustments.Syncrowave 250Millermatic251Trailblazer302Thermal Dynamics cutmaster52
Reply:Originally Posted by CapnbondoI swear 200amps at 80hz, 75% wave balance on the dynasty is way more "power" than 250+amps on the sine wave machine. And the cleanining action is better.
Reply:Looks good from the outside. Not to burst anybody's bubble, but smack that with a hammer and see if there is any penetration into the corner. So many can make it look good without ever breaking the corner of both pieces and truly achieving fusion.When the students test out for GTAW here, I always try to snap the plates apart to check fusion in the corner.I only say this because of your start and end, where there is obviously no fusion. Many start cold and then get into the groove, but just thought for your own info, you could do an easy destructive test.
Reply:I know this was just a quick bead (new 'toys' to play with and all) but LOF at the root was my first thought too. Gotta love inverter squarewave, often reminded how much easier certain jobs are when i'm thrown 'back in time' using older kit belonging to someone else
Reply:When I first got mine, I was really surprised how much effect the frequency has on penetration. AC Freq makes a BIG difference on aluminum!Set the freq at 60hz for normal.lower for less penetration.higher for more penetration.Besides having to read the manual a few times to learn to program the thing, the only trouble my 200DX has ever given me is a HELP-10 code. Don't panic if you see it, that particular code is just a Dynasty's way of saying "Hey dummy, turn the amptrol back down before you try to start welding again". It turns out that I had accidentally bumped my finger amptrol to max while the torch was resting on my concrete garage floor.-Matt------------------------------------------
Reply:If you want to get decent at aluminum, try it all. Practice build-up, multi-pass, welding hot, welding cool,etc. Just put the time in and dick around, it can be fun. You can even weld little stick men out of thin air with a little pedal control. Attached Images
Reply:Thanks guys, and yeah I agree 100% on the LOF. I had been butt welding stainless when I decided to try this and just flipped the machine to AC and let 'er rip. I didn't increase tungsten stickout at all, so there wasn't enough to really get the arc into the corner (gas lense doesn't help). I broke it off, took pics, and rewelded as a demo with the exact same settings but more electrode stickout. The strength difference is obvious. The two pieces bent and twisted a LOT before I could get them to break the second time. Even that said, 1/4" thick I would usually run 2 passes. The second weld's strength was pretty impressive for a single pass with a 200 amp machine though. I will try to get pics up tonight..
Reply:Did you get one of the updated versions that has the new arc start board and waveform selections?Proud to be self-employed and not have to rely on ANYONE but me to make my way in this world.Dynasty 350DXDynasty 200DX MM 350PMM 210MM Passport PlusSpectrum 375 Extreme08' Trailblazer 302
Reply:I dunno I bought it used- I got the Blue one. Now that you mention it though, I noticed the manual mentions settings for a triangular wave, and a "soft" square wave and some other crazy stuff I'll probably never use. Are those the "new" waveform settings? If so then yes. I will say though if I had a gripe about the machine it's that the HF start is just adequate. Abut the same as my dialarc. I mean it works, but my old thermal arc had better starts than any of my millers- it was like lighting a blow torch and always instantaneous.
Reply:Originally Posted by TensaitekiI also have a Dynasty 200DX and it is definitely the best GTAW machine I have ever used. I've used Lincoln inverters, Lincoln transformers, Miller transformers, ESAB transformers, and Chinese import inverters, and the Dynasty beats the pants of all of 'em. I think the only thing better than a Dynasty 200DX is a Dynasty 300 or 700 (though I've never used one).If you like 80Hz on the AC frequency, crank it up to 250Hz, its even better. It gives you a very focused arc, and is where I keep mine set all the time.Also, what type of electrode are you using? I really like using 2% Ceriated (color code orange) on my machine but am thinking about trying out some 1.5% Lanthanated (color code gold) later on. (Whatever you do, for the love of all that is good and holy, keep pure tungsten the hell away from that machine.)
Reply:Originally Posted by RojodiabloAmen to that!!! I accidentally put in some 1/16" tung. to weld some .050 sheet aluminum. What a mistake that was. Fluff. Boom. aaarrggghhhh. I don't really like the frequencies way up there high, but I guess it is all in the material you are welding on.And Revhard- that is a crazy arsed paperweight with a welded on er, uh...appendage. Creative to say the least!!
Reply:I've been using 1/16" pure tungsten trying to weld aluminum with a Miller Dynasty 200DX and it's been a huge mess.  Part of this is probably my lack of skills.  I ordered up some 3/32" 2% lanthanated and am hoping this will help.  I use 100% argon and mainly due intercooler piping and auto related fab work.
Reply:nice work the dynasty is WICKED.. arc sounds like revving a model plane engine!! haha.. i love it. welds effortlessly on everything. tried it at ocean city at the miller setup at a hugearse car show. and yup. aluminum is cake when you're set up right  now, if i could only afford one http://kawispeed.com/ -moderator and tech deluxewww.myspace.com/trickortrack -cuz i have no life
Reply:Originally Posted by el bobI've been using 1/16" pure tungsten trying to weld aluminum with a Miller Dynasty 200DX and it's been a huge mess.  Part of this is probably my lack of skills.  I ordered up some 3/32" 2% lanthanated and am hoping this will help.  I use 100% argon and mainly due intercooler piping and auto related fab work.
Reply:Originally Posted by el bobI've been using 1/16" pure tungsten trying to weld aluminum with a Miller Dynasty 200DX and it's been a huge mess.  Part of this is probably my lack of skills.  I ordered up some 3/32" 2% lanthanated and am hoping this will help.  I use 100% argon and mainly due intercooler piping and auto related fab work.
Reply:Originally Posted by RojodiabloEl Bob, the inverter machines flat out HATE pure tungsten. Red, gold, orange tungstens all work with inverters, for steel and aluminum. I use the red(thoriated) and it works well.  Some really like the gold tungsten; I can't find it at my local shop, but no great loss.
Reply:Hello gents,After 30yrs of smelling burnt flesh and coming home looking like a West Virginia coal miner (I retired) and just recently got the urge to do some "clean welding"  I took the plunge and bought a Dynasty 200dx, and a Hypertherm Power Max 45 plasma cutter!!  Life is good and I am having a blast.  I started out on some 3/16 mild steel plate and slowly I am getting the welds to look uniform and good fusion.  Tonight I decided I would switch to AC and give it a go.  I took a break and found this thread and I think it answered a lot of questions (never having welded Aluminum with a tig machine)  My machine has the foot pedal and the WP-17 air torch,  I am working with some (who knows what extruded aluminum about 3/32, seems pretty clean and I have brushed it good with a SS brush prior to welding.  Seems I am having a little problem keeping the weld bead as narrow as I want and I see some contamination in the arc?  I have the balance set at about 80 and had the freq set to 120, using 3/32 red thoriated tungsten.As soon as I post this I will go back and do some more practice with higher Freq (more penetration/narrower arc right?)Best fun a guy can have with his pants on!!  Thanks for the great Web forum!Tim
Reply:Tim,this a free downloadhttp://www.millerwelds.com/resources/TIGhandbook/http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...Book_Chpt6.pdfhas  good chart for settingsEd Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:One thing might be arc length, a shorter arc will make a narrower bead. TIG likes a short arc, I settle for an 1/8". Anything shorter, for me, and I spend too much time grinding my tungsten.  And you may be going too slow, many say alum likes it hot and fast. I don't have those skills. You might also try a backing, to act as a heat sink. Alum can absorb an unbelievable amount of heat. If you're just practicing, get yourself a quench bucket to cool the practice pieces faster. The puddle will also get wider as you near the end of the piece, the heat has nowhere to go.9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250
Reply:Originally Posted by [email protected] gents,After 30yrs of smelling burnt flesh and coming home looking like a West Virginia coal miner (I retired) and just recently got the urge to do some "clean welding"  I took the plunge and bought a Dynasty 200dx, and a Hypertherm Power Max 45 plasma cutter!!  Life is good and I am having a blast.  I started out on some 3/16 mild steel plate and slowly I am getting the welds to look uniform and good fusion.  Tonight I decided I would switch to AC and give it a go.  I took a break and found this thread and I think it answered a lot of questions (never having welded Aluminum with a tig machine)  My machine has the foot pedal and the WP-17 air torch,  I am working with some (who knows what extruded aluminum about 3/32, seems pretty clean and I have brushed it good with a SS brush prior to welding.  Seems I am having a little problem keeping the weld bead as narrow as I want and I see some contamination in the arc?  I have the balance set at about 80 and had the freq set to 120, using 3/32 red thoriated tungsten.As soon as I post this I will go back and do some more practice with higher Freq (more penetration/narrower arc right?)Best fun a guy can have with his pants on!!  Thanks for the great Web forum!TimThanks guys,  I will keep experimenting and practice practice practice!  I am using a WP-air cooled torch that came with the Contractor kit.  Can anyone give some advice on what gas cup to use when running a horizontal bead on aprox 3/32 material, 3/32 2%thoraided?  I am also hearing a lot of differing opinions on how much protrusion of the electrode and as well the angle of grind?   (am I understanding that a lot of this is personal preference that just comes with experience)I have been doing a lot of reading from the millerwelds resource center, and gaining a little all the time.  Looks like I will be getting another bottle of gas (straight Argon) Monday! (almost wish I had gotten a larger then 150CF bottle.Again thanks in advance for all the help!Tim
Reply:Go all the way up to a 248cf bottle. When you get rollin' even that will go in less than a week.And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:Tim:Cup sizes are 1/16", so a #6 is 3/8" ID; a #8 is 1/2". I use a #8 and haven't had any problems getting to my welds. I want as much gas coverage as possible to eliminate any coverage issues. Technically, stick-out is supposed to be kept down to 1/2 of cup diameter. So my #8 gets 1/4". I used to use as much as possible, so I could see the arc. But I've been learning in class that shorter has its advantages. If the stickout is short enough, the cup bumps the piece before the tungsten dips in the puddle. A sharper angle on the tungsten has less penetration. A blunter grind has deeper penetration. I think I saw that on Arc Zone's site. I am having trouble getting the back edge to fuse into the weld, so I'm looking for any advantage. I can't tell any difference, so I've settled on somewhat blunter than a pencil. I've been in TIG 101 class since August and I've sharpened my tung with everything in the shop: the dedicated 6" grinder with an alum oxide wheel, both of the 2" belt sanders (used for everything), both of the 10" grinders (also used for everything), any 4 1/2" grinder and my 1" belt sander. I don't care anymore what I use. For manual welding, I don't think it matters. Some will fuss about tung contamination doing this, I'm fine with it. Disclaimer: I weld at home; alum and mild steel. I also used Red for everything with my x-former. I use red because nothing else existed when I bought mine (besides green).Sharpen both ends of your tungsten, it saves trips to the grinder. This is why I only use one color.9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250
Reply:I am going to contact the LWS I purchased the bottle from and see if I can trade it in for a biggy one?  It will likely be quite a while before I am confident enough to do any out of shop work with the new Tigger.  Any Idea the demensions and weight of a 248 full of gas?I am determined to get the technique down on this aluminum process!  (I am thinking I will practice with a little less heat and try to slow down till I get a little more rythm.  (I am do pretty good till I get a little out of position and (out of control of the torch/filler) then things go south pretty quick.You guys with a lot of experience are a great inspiration!!  Thanks a lotTim
Reply:Craig, looks like we will be learning Tig together, (gotta love these forums)  I am on a waitlist for a CC advanced tig/mig class (prospects are a little iffy for getting in)  I have a lot of O/A experience so for the most part I just need to learn what happens why with this hi tech torch and then practice, practice!  I am doing a lot better with the mild steel practice and plan on doing some SS as soon as I can find a source for some scrap pieces to practice on.  I am thinking about getting one of those portable grinders to save some time grinding (seems I am doing nearly as much grinding as welding)Tim
Reply:TimMy argon bottle is 50 1/2" tall (top of knob, no cap) and 23.75" circumference (7.56" diameter). However, I don't have a clue what size it is. I got it in 1993 and just set it on the dock at the LWS. I hope your LWS will upgrade you. You could always keep the smaller one as your spare. First rule of welding with any gas: You always run out on a weekend. Weight: at 61, I can barely lift it up on the welder by the cap. So I'm guessin' 200 lbs. A comfortable weldor makes better welds. I do a dry run and set myself up to finish comfortable.You guys with a lot of experience are a great inspiration!! Thanks a lot. (gotta love these forums)I'll second that, it's renewed my fascination with welding. I'm a retired desk jockey and taking classes just because I enjoy welding. It's just two nights a week, I don't want to burn out.  I told the instructor (whom I RESPECT), "I'll be taking classes as long as you're teaching". The online guys that can weld aluminum standing on their head or hanging from their knees on anodized alum using an on / off switch are an inspiration! And making it look like a robot did it. I'm pedal dependent and never see anodized. I'm fascinated by the skill of welding out of position, any process.Good luck with getting in class, it's quite enjoyable for me. I also started with O/A. It's all I had for 15 years. With TIG, I had been self taught until August, and there isn't much welding in my home shop, so I remember almost everything that caused me pain. Yes, there is a lot of tungsten grinding with the TIG process. Last edited by Craig in Denver; 12-14-2008 at 09:10 PM.9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250
Reply:Craig,Thanks!  You got a couple years on me but I am feeling the torture I put myself through (put elevators in commercial buildings for 25yrs!  I am trying to locate some drops to practice on, haven't tried Stainless but sure like the looks of it when done right!  Once a guy starts this tig work you gain a quick appreciation for those that make it look like machine welding!  I bought a digital miller elite hood and along with my bifocals and a 1.5 cheater I can now at least see the puddle!  I was wondering, aside from wiping down this scrape aluminum with acetone and brushing prior to welding do you ever use any sanding discs to remove surface oxidation?  I am about to go out and burn through some more rod and tungsten, hope to take a few pictures and try to post them for critique? By the way I have cousins in Denver and I was born at St. Joseph's and went to Denver Auto and diesel school in 1970 when it was still a private Lear school.  My Dad had a sporting goods store in Evergreen way back in the 40's/50's.  (I bet it has changed huh)Tim
Reply:Went out and did some more practice beads with the Aluminum 3/32 aprox, used a 3/32 2%Thoriated tungsten, sharpened a little steeper seemed to help (set the machine to 140amps 80%balance and freq to 150.  The cup was a #6 (not numbered but measured 3/8" (part of the contractor kit) with the WP-17 torch.  I used 3/32 filler and toward the end I ran a little 1/8" seemed I had a little more trouble keeping the puddle consistant and had to move a lot faster that made my "nickles drip" LOL!  ( my flat horizontal beads are getting easier to dip and run, (seems I get out of wack) when I pick up my torch had off the rest and free hand both the torch and the filler rod (however I did manage to run a whole 4" pretty consistantly (once)   I tried for the first time some fillet weld and found it to be a lot more work to get the gas coverage and heat consistant and then ad the filler consistantly.Tomorrow I will get another hour or so of practic and then have to get another bottle of gas!!   Fun stuff, and I am determined to get it figured out!I tried to upload a photo from my computer and it 'failed' (any ideas)Tim
Reply:Originally Posted by [email protected] out and did some more practice beads with the Aluminum 3/32 aprox, used a 3/32 2%Thoriated tungsten, sharpened a little steeper seemed to help (set the machine to 140amps 80%balance and freq to 150.  The cup was a #6 (not numbered but measured 3/8" (part of the contractor kit) with the WP-17 torch.  I used 3/32 filler and toward the end I ran a little 1/8" seemed I had a little more trouble keeping the puddle consistant and had to move a lot faster that made my "nickles drip" LOL!  ( my flat horizontal beads are getting easier to dip and run, (seems I get out of wack) when I pick up my torch had off the rest and free hand both the torch and the filler rod (however I did manage to run a whole 4" pretty consistantly (once)   I tried for the first time some fillet weld and found it to be a lot more work to get the gas coverage and heat consistant and then ad the filler consistantly.Tomorrow I will get another hour or so of practic and then have to get another bottle of gas!!   Fun stuff, and I am determined to get it figured out!I tried to upload a photo from my computer and it 'failed' (any ideas)Tim
Reply:Tim:You're right, the more I TIG in class (just mild steel at this time), the more I realize how good some are. That helmet should serve you well. My helmet gave me trouble tonight, I hope it's not failing, I just replaced the batteries a few weeks ago. I'd be lost without my cheater.When I was first learning alum, I was more careful with cleaning. Mostly just a stainless brush. I tried either brake cleaner or some other chemical (can't remember), but it left something in the pores and sooted up my piece pretty bad. I don't use any sanding discs, etc. to clean the alum. My favorite is a 3" stainless brush mounted on my cordless drill. The brush is rated to 10,000 rpm and I tried it in my die grinder originally; WAY to agressive. But slowed down in the drill, it works well. Some of the best online alum welds I've seen were done by guys who don't clean with anything, they just rely on the AC+ on the welder. Since all my alum is pretty clean, I let the welder clean it now. I've never used acetone and think it's just another 'busy work' step. If there's any alum dust left from brushing, what chance does it have when the arc gets there? Something I've started doing is running over my filler with a Scotch-brite pad. This seems to help with the filler globbing instead of flowing into the puddle. And the disclaimer: the above paragraph is my personal experience etc etc IMHO YMMV I've met a couple other online guys with ties to Denver. Heck, I can't even say I was born here (Chicago).  But I've lived here for 55 years. Yes, it has changed, and not much for the better.I like 3/32" filler on alum. The 1/16" melts too fast for learning. I also think the 3/32" tung covers almost all of my situations, alum and steel. Do you know to knock the point off your tung after sharpening? (truncate) It stabilizes the arc at the tip. I've tried to free hand both the torch and filler, not a pretty sight. Some of my best AND worst welds have been fillets. Argon coverage shouldn't be a problem because the 90* joint contains it. The hardest part for me, is getting the puddle to bridge both pieces.This is one joint that I WILL clean with the brush. So if that hasn't given you trouble, you missed a headache.(however I did manage to run a whole 4" pretty consistantly (once)Sounds like me. I don't change anything, and it looks like someone else did half the weld.Check your photo size, too large won't load. 800 x 600 pixels is 'sorta' an internet standard. Rojo beat me again.Sheesh, I wrote a book; does this mean I'm published?? 9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250
Reply:Rojodiablo,Thanks for the advice,  I had the frequency way to high?150 or so?  Or where you refering to Balance.  Am I understanding right on the dynasty the balance is the percentage the time the electrode is Neg and in so being the higher the balance the more positive (cleaning)  When doing the fillet I noticed I had to move the torch from the vertical to the horizontal quite a bit in the beginning to get the puddle balance, and it apeared that the gas shield was a little void in the apex?  perhaps I needed a little more peak amps so to get the puddle hot faster and then back off, (once I got going, seemed to clean up and go ok.  Doesn't the higher frequency cause the arc to widen?  (lot to learn, hope I can get into the class in a couple weeks so I can get some over the shoulder critique)As for the photo loading I was doing as you said but when I hit 'upload' it just said failed?I will try again,Thanks so much for the ongoing help!  This forum is awesome!!TimPS: just tried the upload again, same problem,  I think what I did is compress the big .jpg file but the size is still larger then 800 x 600?  (I get confused on how to do this stuff)Better hit the hay tonight,  I will give it a go again tomorrow,
Reply:Craig,Thanks for the tips!  I will practice till the LWS runs out of Argon!  I am going to try to find some Alum. drops tomorrow for more practice material.This computer stuff still baffles me!  I grew up in the sticks in AK and missed most of the first months of every year of classes (hunting season was a lot more fun then Math and english) besides my teacher was my hunting buddy!!  I must not know how to resize my 5meg pictures correctly? I am using Vista and a new canon 14mega pixel camera, the files are huge originally and so I emailed them to myself and had windows compress them in the email?  How do I resize them from their original size??This forum is great, only wish I could get the Wife to let me do some tiggin here in the living room?? HA,HATim
Reply:Originally Posted by [email protected],Thanks for the advice,  I had the frequency way to high?150 or so?  Or where you refering to Balance.  Am I understanding right on the dynasty the balance is the percentage the time the electrode is Neg and in so being the higher the balance the more positive (cleaning)  When doing the fillet I noticed I had to move the torch from the vertical to the horizontal quite a bit in the beginning to get the puddle balance, and it apeared that the gas shield was a little void in the apex?  perhaps I needed a little more peak amps so to get the puddle hot faster and then back off, (once I got going, seemed to clean up and go ok.  Doesn't the higher frequency cause the arc to widen?  (lot to learn, hope I can get into the class in a couple weeks so I can get some over the shoulder critique)As for the photo loading I was doing as you said but when I hit 'upload' it just said failed?I will try again,Thanks so much for the ongoing help!  This forum is awesome!!TimPS: just tried the upload again, same problem,  I think what I did is compress the big .jpg file but the size is still larger then 800 x 600?  (I get confused on how to do this stuff)Better hit the hay tonight,  I will give it a go again tomorrow,
Reply:Rojo and Craig,I checked the size of the photos I am trying to upload and they are comressed to 37meg And 800x600?I don't have a clue what I am doing wrong to keep them from uploading (could it be a security setting on my computer??)  have to ask my son tomorrowTim
Reply:http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=111This may be the answers to your photo questions. Link doesn't work so you'll have to copy and paste. Maybe it will work.9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250
Reply:Thanks,I went to that thread and it worked there??  I will try again,  (maybe "I" need to get amped up)just like this tig welding I WILL GET R DONE!If it works here is a snap of my first attempt at aluminum horizontal beads and fillet weld, I will post some more with improvement for critiqueThanks again for the patient help!PS: anyone know the size Argon bottles available bigger then 150cf and what I should expect to pay to own/fill? Attached Images
Reply:Gents,Here is the next try with 3/32 filler, 150 on the freq/80balance and max amps 140."practice doesn't make perfect" perfect practice makes perfect (that is why I love constructive critique!(any suggestions on where to get aluminum and SS scrap to practice on?Tim Attached Images
Reply:The bottom run I tried using 1/8" filler rod (same 3/8" cup)Tim
Reply:Bottom pic is an indicator of too steep a torch angle, since the dabs of filler come to a point rather than a rounded shape.  This can also affect gas coverage, which could also help explain why it looks oxidized compared to the pics above.
Reply:Bottom??? So are you lefthanded?Miller Dynasty 700Miller 350P with Aluma-pro push-pullMiller 280 Dynasty with expansion card Dynasty 200 DXMigMax 215 Enuff power and hand tools to create one of anything..... but mass produce nothing!!!
Reply:FusionKing,Yes I am a lefty, and yes I was trying to use 1/8" filler without turning up the amps and you are right I finally figured out that the least amount of forward tilt the bettter with the 1/8" filler the puddle would cool to much when I dipped the big stick in it.  I ran some more on another plate this afternoon and they look better, I will upload some for more reference. (wife has me going to the neighbors)  better keep peace so I can keep buying more shop tools, (looking for a 4ft finger break, good 10 x 36" lathe, drill press, (it is  Christmas right)Checked on $ for a 333cf gas bottle today and they want $330 for the bottle "first fill included" (how does that compare where you guys are at)?Anyone use those glass gas cups?? can you see the tip of the tungsten with them?? (probably more necessary for fine SS work?I did get some 1/8" falls today to practice more on, so I be happy!Thanks guys, it sure is a big help to have your wisdom over the shoulderTim
Reply:I went out and snapped a shot of the beads I ran earlier today for your critique,  I finally was able to (last two beads) run from one side to the other without stopping (about 6") still a little rough, however I did manage to do the whole plate of beads without re-grinding the tungsten (now if I can just get all my shakes consistant and better the rythym.  THANKS FOR THE tip on why the nickles are not round I will keep the torch more verticle (I can easily see the difference it made on some of the beads.Is it possible to tell me how wide a bead should be with this thickness of material and how high the crown should be?  I did notice on the underside there was some sign of "complete" penetration but not consistantly (what should the undersid look like if you are not joining a piece (butt weld)Any comment on what the peak ampres should be?Thanks,Tim Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by [email protected] on $ for a 333cf gas bottle today and they want $330 for the bottle "first fill included" (how does that compare where you guys are at)?Anyone use those glass gas cups?? can you see the tip of the tungsten with them?? (probably more necessary for fine SS work?Thanks guys, it sure is a big help to have your wisdom over the shoulderTim
Reply:Craig,Thanks for the tip on the gas fill (I will check with my LWS's and see what is up on refills? Don't they usually just take your bottle and exchange with one of theirs? (or do you have to wait for fills?  As for the hole at the end, yeh I know and I will work on that one for sure, (tomorrow is going to be a better looking plate of puddles)  I will have to work on getting the heat more uniform especially when I get to toward the end.does anyone know if the cover for the dynasty 200dx will go on with the cables/gas hose etc. hooked up?  I hope to make/modify a cart next week.  I am thinking I will size it to carry my Hypertherm 45 as well?Fun stuff!  (it is cold out), reminds me of AK!  19 degrees and supposed to get up to 6" of white stuff tomorrow~ might have to leave the gas bottle in the truck for traction!TimDo we get a different cert. if we can pass left handed??Last edited by Ultrachop; 12-16-2008 at 11:47 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by [email protected],Thanks for the tip on the gas fill (I will check with my LWS's and see what is up on refills? Don't they usually just take your bottle and exchange with one of theirs? (or do you have to wait for fills?It depends on whether you own or rent, the size of the bottle, and where you are. Here, with mine (whatever size it is), I just exchange.As for the hole at the end, yeh I know and I will work on that one for sure, (tomorrow is going to be a better looking plate of puddles)  I will have to work on getting the heat more uniform especially when I get to toward the end.Weld #5 looks best, even though there is a 'right side and left side'.I hope to make/modify a cart next week.  I am thinking I will size it to carry my Hypertherm 45 as well?Yes, a combo cart should work well for your two pieces. IMO. You have a plasma cutter!?!?!? I hate you. Fun stuff!  (it is cold out), reminds me of AK!  19 degrees and supposed to get up to 6" of white stuff tomorrow~ might have to leave the gas bottle in the truck for traction!TimUnless yur hidin' from the FBI, you can go up to User CP and add your location.Do we get a different cert. if we can pass left handed??