portable scoreboard

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hey guys just got a small project to do for the local footy club, they have a trolley already made up to use for other equipment but want to mount their new scoreboard onto the trolley to wheel out and use/display on game day.the mounting to the trolley is easy enough but the only problem is once the scoreboard is on the trolley its going to act like a sail and get blown over on the footy field by the wind (very windy)pretty stumped on what to do, cant add extra weight to the bottom because they are already worried about the weight pulling it around, was thinking of spiking it into the ground or something simular?heaps after some suggestionscheers guysheres a rough sketch of the existing trolley/ scoreboard,  really rough done in photoshop haha
Reply:Can you increase the axle width?  The wider it is, the less likely it will be blown over.   If it's that heavy, you may want to use some extra wide turf tires so it doesn't dig ruts in the field when it's wet out.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:nah cant lengthen the axels width as its already pushing the size limit to get through the door where its stored
Reply:just thinking about some mounting points on the top corners for rope to run to some heavy duty pegs hammered into the ground
Reply:Keep the axle width the way you want it. But add extendable wheels to widen the base. You can use a slip fit of two tubes or pipes and a cross pin to lock it into place when extended. Or you can use a fold down design where they flip up to fit through the door and flip down to stabilize.Lincoln Power Mig 210MP MIGLincoln Power Mig 350MP - MIG and Push-PullLincoln TIG 300-300Lincoln Hobby-Weld 110v  Thanks JLAMESCK TIG TORCH, gas diffuser, pyrex cupThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 101My brain
Reply:Is it used anywhere within reach of a hose?  Put a water tank in the bottom.  Haul it into place, fill the tank.  20 gallons is over 160 lbs.  Drain the water out, tow it back.Don't forget the in-ground field sprinkler system if you go to driving stakes/spikes into the ground.
Reply:Kaiser....good one!I didn't even think of that as the neighbor kid across the street wheeled out his basketball hoop and filled the base with water! Duh!!! My bad.Lincoln Power Mig 210MP MIGLincoln Power Mig 350MP - MIG and Push-PullLincoln TIG 300-300Lincoln Hobby-Weld 110v  Thanks JLAMESCK TIG TORCH, gas diffuser, pyrex cupThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 101My brain
Reply:How about a couple of outriggers that pin onto the sides and stick in the ground. They wouldn't need to be too heavy, unless you footy in typhoons. Attached Images"We live in an age when unnecessary things are our only necessities. "   - Oscar WildeMaxstar STL150Eagle CPM30 Bender
Reply:hey guys there's been a change of plans, can no longer attach the score board to that trolley as it gets pulled around to much carting the other equipment so it makes it a bit unsafe,heres my ideameans half the post becomes underground lowering the whole scoreboard but it already sits at a higher level then the field so its no problem, spose when they set it up they'll have to sink one post and just measure the spot for the second leg, then hope they hit it into the ground reasonably parallel to each otherany sugestions guys, this was just an idea
Reply:maybe i could permanently concrete them in all set to size and make a cap the occupy them while not in use so they dont fill up with gunk, cap would have to be secure as public walks over the area often
Reply:That'll work...as long as you can keep the holes cleaned out.Weld a cross beam between the two in-ground post sockets, but near the top so it'll not be to deep.  Use the same 40mm tube, maybe 2 parallel bars of it.  That way, you control distance and parallel.  To install the in-ground sockets, they'll just have to dig 2 post holes (500mm deep) , with a connecting trench between them about 100mm deep that the cross bar will seat into.  Little more steel, little more labor on your end, but that way the 2 sockets will be square and parallel to each other when they leave your shop.Have them dig the post holes deeper and bottom out with gravel...that'll help keep the sockets from rusting away as fast, and keep a 'sploosh' of water from coming back into their faces when they drop the posts in.Back to keeping the holes cleaned out...maybe instead of a cap...make a plug of the 30x30 box tube by 500mm that'll drop in and fill the socket when not in use....also think of maybe the post leg not going all the way into the socket, but stopping short of the bottom with a stopper block hitting the top edge of the socket, so it doesn't bottom out.  If anything does drop down inside, it won't keep the post from going all the way in.Make sense?edit:  be sure to chain the cap/plug to the socket in some way...so it doesn't get tossed at the Ref., or just lost.edit2:  if gunk or gravel or whatever does get into the socket over time and becomes a problem....that's what shop vacs are made for.Last edited by kaiser715; 04-19-2009 at 12:43 AM.
Reply:there was another change of plan this time which made it alot easier for me, doubled up the frame and hinged it at the top. made an A frame out of it, made the wheels today to help lugging it aroundbit of pipe from work and some 75x50 r.h.s, bit of welding and then a trip to bunnings to buy a trolley to nick the wheels off, was $25 per wheel or $29 for a complete trolley with the same wheels plus it came with the axel washers and split pins too.bit of paint andbasically the scoreboard legs slot into the r.h.s and the bolt clamps them tight to stay onhere's a photo of the score board as it already was.i'll take some photos of it on the weekend once i've fully finished everything, still gotta link some chain to stop the legs spreading too far and gotta make a handle to lift one end to pull it around, also gunna make a better hand knob on the bolt to make it easy to tighten.
Reply:finished it nowall up it cost them 375, 135 in parts and 240 labor
Reply:How will it go in strong winds?  Big open area and wind may give the scoreboard its own wings if its not fixed in some way.  There is a fair amount of surface area on that scoreboard for wind to catch.Nice job though.
Reply:yeah that was a concern when we were thinking of ideas for how it was gunna be mounted, the board has some chain links on the top center for some tie down rope, the wheels are only to help wheel it from the store room out onto the field, once in postion the wheels are removed and the board is opened up into the A frame, feels pretty sturdy and hopefully the wind shouldnt effect it as its on like a 75degree angle should just flow over it, if not they can tie it down.
Reply:Good to hear you included a fix.Should have known that you have already considered wind but was worth the ask.
Reply:its defently a major factor there, when we rocked up there the first time i grabbed the board and picked it up by me self and the wind took a few meters and i almost went *** up over the board, defently catches the wind but hopefully the angle it sits now should deflect it enough
Reply:hey guys just bumping the thread asking for ideas for an addition to this scoreboard.basically gunna make a second set of wheels for the other side of the scoreboard posts but this one will need to be on a swivel axle to make turning easier while moving itwill also need to incorporate a lock pin to be able to lock the wheels straightive bought another trolley so it will have the same wheels/tyres as the first setcheers guys
Reply:now im thinking about a solid bar and just turning these wheels into a a single swivel style