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I have an 8"x8"x72'' with a steel thickness of .438" and I need to make it 24" longer. I am using it to replace the old beam on my log splitter that has a great deal of flex and twist when splitting large rounds of firewood. Does it matter what end of the beam I weld the 24" extension to? The splitter is designed with a push plate mounted to the hydraulic ram and a splitting wedge mounted to the end of the beam. Thanks for your input.
Reply:Far as the beam is concerned, shouldn't matter one bit. A properly spliced beam doesn't care where you put it. Here are a couple different joint preps I use when splicing beams. Attached ImagesDont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Is this a trick question? As long as you bevel it and take the time to set it straight and step weld it it shouldn't matterMiller bobcat 225g - spoolmatic 1Mm250 - 30a spoolMiller spectrum 375Thermal arc 95 Everlast Ex 250As the boiler turns, these are the days of our lives
Reply:Originally Posted by astaindsoul5446Is this a trick question? As long as you bevel it and take the time to set it straight and step weld it it shouldn't matter
Reply:In the theoretically perfect world, where you place the perfect weld in the perfectly uniform beam wouldn't matter to the mechanical properties of the spliced beam.In the real world that we live in, the weld placement may or may not matter. Depending on just how 'perfect' the weld is (even a 'perfect' weld is likely to introduce at least some sort of discontinuity at the seam, whether a slight metallurgical grain change in the HAZ or some sort of geometric discontinuity at the surface both of which may or may not affect the properties of the beam and the weld) and how much stress (load) is being applied to the beam and the weld and how the beam deflects from that load, there may or may not be a noticable effect.If your existing beam has a "great deal of flex and twist", deal with that aspect first. If your proposed 8x8 beam is greatly bigger than the existing flexy and twisty beam, great. If not, then use a bigger beam.If you have to splice a beam, make sure you do it well and 'right'. CEP's picture is pretty much 'textbook', as far as make a bevel and then weld it all together. I'd add to back-grind/gouge the root section after doing all the bevel welds, so that you are 100% sure of getting 100% penetration and fusing the welds in well. YMMV. The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Originally Posted by MoonRiseIn the theoretically perfect world, where you place the perfect weld in the perfectly uniform beam wouldn't matter to the mechanical properties of the spliced beam.In the real world that we live in, the weld placement may or may not matter. Depending on just how 'perfect' the weld is (even a 'perfect' weld is likely to introduce at least some sort of discontinuity at the seam, whether a slight metallurgical grain change in the HAZ or some sort of geometric discontinuity at the surface both of which may or may not affect the properties of the beam and the weld) and how much stress (load) is being applied to the beam and the weld and how the beam deflects from that load, there may or may not be a noticable effect.If your existing beam has a "great deal of flex and twist", deal with that aspect first. If your proposed 8x8 beam is greatly bigger than the existing flexy and twisty beam, great. If not, then use a bigger beam.If you have to splice a beam, make sure you do it well and 'right'. CEP's picture is pretty much 'textbook', as far as make a bevel and then weld it all together. I'd add to back-grind/gouge the root section after doing all the bevel welds, so that you are 100% sure of getting 100% penetration and fusing the welds in well. YMMV.
Reply:I forgot to add this one. Attached ImagesDont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by woodtick007the current beam is a 4" x 6" x .25 was on the splitter when purchased and would be fine for the average Joe....but I get my wood from the county and most if not all of it is 24"-40" across tree trunks. Do you think I could weld in some gussets to eliminate the bowing/twisting of the smaller beam?
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPDo you have enough room to double up on the flanges? Like this.
Reply:Can you add flatbar on the bottom of the top flange? One piece of flatbar on each side of the web?On big beams I set up batter boards, and use string line or piano wire. For small beams I use a straight edge, and weld accordingly. Who said I was a professional? I'm just a hobbyist.Dont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:I have built a 30 ton log splitter and after it was all built I added up the receipts and I spent more money than if I went out and bought a new one. If it were me I would go buy a longer and bigger beam. By the time you get done trying to fix it with no guarantee you will have more time and money in the beam than what a new beam will cost. Just my 2 cents. Good luck.
Reply:Originally Posted by kctgbI have built a 30 ton log splitter and after it was all built I added up the receipts and I spent more money than if I went out and bought a new one. If it were me I would go buy a longer and bigger beam. By the time you get done trying to fix it with no guarantee you will have more time and money in the beam than what a new beam will cost. Just my 2 cents. Good luck.
Reply:Originally Posted by woodtick007Its not about the money....lol
Reply:If you can, the flanges could be boxed in to make it more rigid.Leo
Reply:For small beams I use a straight edge, and weld accordingly |
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发表于 2021-8-31 23:52:21