i have welding jobs, any advice?

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2 welding jobs.i need to get a vehicle wheel lock off of a truck.and i also need to weld an exhaust!anyadvice?past experiences???Thanks
Reply:To remove the wheel lock I assume you are talking about a lug nut I usually take an old 12 point socket and beat it on with a hammer and then use my impact gun takes them off most of the time. some of them are smooth on the sides which can be a little more diffecult to get off, for them they make sockets to remove them they have teeth inside to dig into the socket kind of like an easy out only in socket form. if you have room to get to it without ruining the rim i have used a chiesl and hammer. they come off pretty easy just try a few things i've even used vise grips before. I hope this is what you were asking about if not maybe you can post some pics we can look at to come up with some ideas to help. On the exhaust try the hardest part is always the top, usually hard to get the gun up there to weld it all the way around, i have used mirror before to finish it up wound up with a bunch of splatter in the mirror but got the job done. if possible i try to tack it and then lower it down to finish the weld.Hope I was of some help to you, let us know how it goesAnthonyTo many hobbies not enough Cash!!1951 Chevy 1 Ton 9' Pickup resto-mod V8 4x4 1987 Pontiac Fiero GT 3800 V6 ConversionESAB MIgmaster 250www.anthonysautoservice.com
Reply:By  AnthonyF;On the exhaust try the hardest part is always the top, usually hard to get the gun up there to weld it all the way around, i have used mirror before to finish it up wound up with a bunch of splatter in the mirror but got the job done.
Reply:I've used the 12 pt socket trick also in a pinch to get the wheel locks off.Mig would be your best choice on old exhaust pipe. It's easier not to burn thru.  Lots of guys use tig especially on SS, but you have to have clean metal to do this. I've even used stick in a pinch, but it's a PITA for me to run on thin metal. I believe you just got a O/A kit, did you get welding tips for it yet? The cutting attachment isn't going to work for this. O/A used to be the way they did it years ago everywhere. Thin exhaust tube with O/A will take some practice. I'd get some extra tube and practice, especially in position if you have to work under the car with the exhaust in place. Laying on your back welding overhead and around a pipe is not the same as working on the bench. If you can do socket joints and lap weld that will be easiest rather than but joints. Try and clean the old tube as best as possible to get off all the old rust.You might be best off renting or borrowing a mig to do the exhaust, especially if you are just learning. That or weld as much on the bench as possible and then use clamps to put the pieces together under the vehicle..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWO/A used to be the way they did it years ago everywhere.
Reply:thanks. ill try the 12 point trick but its smooth on the outside.yes i have the o/A setand i also have a lincoln 125 with the argon setup
Reply:That little Lincoln will be perfect for this..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Can you remove the exhaust to weld on it?  If so, I'd recommend doing that.  I'd also recommend making sure you are practiced enough to do the welds.  Get some exaust tubing of the same material, diameter, etc... and practice on that first.  If you can't weld with the exhaust off, practice welding in the positions you will have to in order to weld the exhaust while it is on the vehicle.  Also, if you have to weld on the vehicle, make sure you follow all the standard practices to avoid burning out any electronics on the vehicle.--Wintermute"No man's knowledge here can go beyond his experience." - John Lockewww.improvised-engineering.comManufacturer Agnostic:Blood----------Sweat---------Tears----|------------------|----------------|----Lincoln Red, Miller Blue, Esab Yellow
Reply:As a qualified exhaust fitter and yeah I know pretty sad qualif to have lmao... I suggest you take the exhaust OFF the car before welding it if you want to get good welds and make sure you don't have little pin holes in it... The worst thing for an exhaust is actually pin holes because they are so small it will let water in the hole but not out the hole.... Make sure you give the metal a good clean with a wire brush, set your volts to about 17 volt at the most and amps/wire speed about half way on the dial and make sure you TACK it properly if you want it all to line up when your done..... The volts are correct but I'm not too sure about wire speed and amps because I have never really had to weld an old system..... and a little inside tip for you, if AFTER you weld it the pipe is a little too short get your O/A torch out and heat it until it is red and "stretch the pipe.. If you do it right you have nothing to worry about!If you were in Aus I would invite you around to teach you how to do it free cause I think its a great skill to have!
Reply:Another neat little exhaust trick is to get an end to end coupler and remove the rusted area and slip the sleeve in place and weld around the ends.  It spreads the welds and lowers the heat and likely hood of burn throughs on thinned metal.  You can get them at Autozone, or discount auto or any of the cheap car parts places and make a nice clean repair that way.I'm spending my Kids inheritance, I dont like him that much anyway!!!!!!Enuff tools to do the job, enough sense to use em.Anybody got a spare set of kidneys?  Trade?