1940 willys cj2a welding help

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hi I am a student (19yr old) going to be working on a Willys CJ2A to bring it back to life the way I want it.before I dive into the body work I am practicing my welds.since I am new to body work, I dont really know what I am doing. I know that I dont want to heat up the metal to much or it will warp my body.should I do a lot of tack welds or do I do constant weld but for a very short bead say 1''.here are some of my test pieces.your criticism is much appreciated
Reply:A true 1940 Jeep... probably was not a CJ2A, which was first produced in 1945.http://www.hrja.org/jeep.htmI am just saying...City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:Originally Posted by tanglediverA true 1940 Jeep... probably was not a CJ2A, which was first produced in 1945.http://www.hrja.org/jeep.htmI am just saying...
Reply:Hi ya Shnitzlhaus what type of welder did you use to make those beads? Your best best on body work is use of a gas mig welder. Tack the piece onto the surface  with short tack welds around all sides of the piece then go back and do one area then switch to another area on another side of the piece to be welded. If a large area has to be welded or long beads be sure to let the metal cool a bit before running your next bead. This method allows for better heat distribution throughout the metal and causes less distortion.But like you say get plenty of practice with similiar metals and the welder before trying this on your Classic Jeep restoration.   Best of luck with your classes and the restoration.If you want to post your location, show your personal avatar, or have a signature on each post telling fellow members where you are located; an avatar of you or your shop, and a signature telling fellow members what types of equipment you have, you can do it all by following these steps:1. Locate and click on USER CP2. Under YOUR CONTROL PANEL, YOUR PROFILE, click on EDIT YOUR DETAILS3. In the EDIT YOUR DETAILS, you can enter Optional Information and Additional Information such as your Location (an other info)4. While in USER CP you can explore some of the other functions - Avatar: you can have picture of you, your shop, your wife, children, dog, etc (keep it clean- no nudes)- Signature: you can list all your equipment, a link to your shop, or maybe some witty sayingCo-Own CNC shop:Miller :1251 plasma cutter, MaxStar 700 TIG/Stick, & XMT 456 Multiprocess Welder.&  2 Hypertherm HPR260's Plasma CutterSorry I had a bad stroke but now I am back.
Reply:will do.attempt from todayhere is todays attemptsbottom weld = todays bottom againwith shielding gas .024 wire
Reply:did a fast video
Reply:looks to me your triggering your weld in one puddle at a time which I do somtimes on thin material. You need to turn your wire down a bit and stack your puddles closer together so it looks like a continous bead. With the pic thats drawing on you the one with the tri square across tack yourself some short pieces of flatbar across the joint in several spots weld in short increments dont let the weld area get too hot and don't break your tabs off till it's coldVisions SteelWasilla Alaskahttp://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...5&l=c32ed1320fwelderstourchessawsgrinders
Reply:Okay here goes, just remember I'm just tryin to give pointers but I'm tired and kinda grouchy as hell from a customer from hell..  You see how your welds look like bird poop? Means your wire is running way to fast, when your welding you will hear the mig skipping and if your holding the gun like your first born and not trying to kill it by squeezing you will feel the wire hitting the weld piece and trying to push the gun away. Try setting your speed down to about 2 and a half or 3 and your heat to 4 and you will be amazed... Now moving along to tip 2 when looking through the helmet try to watch the molten puddle of metal so you know what speed to move at and your welds will take shape nicely... Now a little experement get a BFH (BIG F*CKIN HAMMER) and see how easy the welds in the picture break then try welding how I suggested and give the hammer a go and see how much stronger it is... And just practice your speeds and tacking it well and then joining the tacks with a bead... If your using flux core thats ok because its cheaper to buy but remember that when you have to weld with gas and solid wire remember your gonna need more heat in there and no gusts of wind! Hope this helps buddy (if you dont mind me calling you that) I gotta go and sort out some paperwork a pain in the butt apprentice screwed up lmao..... Take it easyTons of hand tools mostly KingchromeArc welderMiG weldersO/A setupMany grindersair compressorsmany air toolsIndustrial drill pressTwo Forkliftsmany more toolsMan has his will, but woman has her way.- Oliver Wendell Holmes
Reply:PICS of the Willys man.Tim Beeker.
Reply:You definitely need to tighten up the distance between your spot (tack) welds. Actually, you could probably get away with running short 1/2" -3/4" long beads. Also, since you aren't seeing penetration to the back side of your weld joint, you need to either open up the weld joint so that there is a gap between the two piece, or maybe try turning your welder up to hotter settings.ESAB Migmaster 250 Hobart Ironman 230Multimatic 215TWECO Fabricator 181i & 211iHH125EZ - nice little fluxcore only unitMaxstar 150 STH - very nice
Reply:Watching this thread with interest. I need new floorboards in my 47 CJ2A and the advice given here is so helpful.Thanks,BorderBrewerMillerMatic 135PAK 2XT PlasmaCJ2A #122232
Reply:Originally Posted by tnjindPICS of the Willys man.
Reply:MAD no worries.I tried your advice and someone elses to rotate the torch.so I did another attempt.only thing, it warps way to easy. I am thinking when I work on my jeep I will do some anchoring welds like that then turn it down some where I can control it easier.im sure it would hold.
Reply:Its starting to look better, how strong are they? I have a feeling your in the good ol USofA but if your in NSW near me I am happy to donate some time and help you get them welds looking professional.. My next tip would be to try and get a stack of dimes effect of the welds overlapping if you want to do spots.. To help keep the shape tack each end and then the middle, and try welding from one end first then going over to the other and doing another weld that way the heat wont warp the metal... Hope this helps and just keep practicing.. And as I said lookin good!!Tons of hand tools mostly KingchromeArc welderMiG weldersO/A setupMany grindersair compressorsmany air toolsIndustrial drill pressTwo Forkliftsmany more toolsMan has his will, but woman has her way.- Oliver Wendell Holmes
Reply:Man, I love old willys. I have a 1946 with a 283 myself.Sheetmetal warps easily.Skip around while welding (not you skipping, the weld).Tack a spot, move to a different spot, tack, move, tack.........Tall welds mean more grinding, grinding creates heat, heat warps.Turn your welder up as suggested.Tim Beeker.
Reply:Shnitzlhaus, here's another thread similar to what your doing that you can read through for some extra pointers. Give it a read and try some of the techniques folks have given in it and post up some more results here. http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=39466