Some pipe weld's

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Here's some pictures of some pipe weld's at work. Could'nt get a decent picture of the weld from inside, but it did'nt turn out as good as I would have liked to. It was abit too concave for my liking. My foreman say's it's because I'm welding at the wrong angle. I weld at about 45°, while he say's I should be welding at 90°. What do you guys think?
Reply:How did you hold the gap? Did you stick a shim in there and then slide it out?
Reply:Dont know what a shim is (I'm norwegian). But I use a filler rod (1/8" in this case) bent into a "V" like in the picture below. I start tacking at pos #1 then I just move the "bottom" of the filler clockwise until I've got 3 tacks. After the 3rd I pull out the rod and just stick in one of the ends and make a 4th tack. If I dont pull it out before the 4th tack, I wont get it out at all.
Reply:Yes, that's what I meant, a spacer of some sort. Looks like tig on stainless steel.
Reply:Correct!
Reply:Speen:What position? Do you have something to turn the piece as you weld?If you'd like, you can go up to the left side of the page to User CP and add your location. 9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250
Reply:2G position, using a rotary table.Thanks for the heads up =Pedit: btw when looking at the pictures I see that you might think that the piece welded to the flange is a pipe of some sort. It's just a hose fitting, so it does not extend very far out of the picture. That's why I'm able to weld in the 2G position. Just to clear things up. If it was a pipe I was welding I would be welding in the 1G position.Last edited by Speen; 02-15-2009 at 06:00 PM.
Reply:Sweet MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Looks good to me
Reply:walking the cup... NICE
Reply:if you want more root push more wire. your foreman is right though if you increases your angle (closer to 90*) you will get more pen out of your root. are you dripping your root in or just laying it in their?your cap looks a wee bit hot not exactly burnt but definitely hot. more gas or less heat pick one
Reply:Originally Posted by Nick Zwalking the cup... NICE
Reply:Originally Posted by quasiif you want more root push more wire. your foreman is right though if you increases your angle (closer to 90*) you will get more pen out of your root. are you dripping your root in or just laying it in their?your cap looks a wee bit hot not exactly burnt but definitely hot. more gas or less heat pick one
Reply:Ideally, you want to be close to 15 degrees from vertical as you go around the pipe.  45 is definitely too shallow of a torch angle.  I can't see the pictures here at work, but if it looks "burnt" as was mentioned, that angle could be contributing to poor gas coverage as well.
Reply:When taking a closer look I might have been exaggerating abit regarding the angle. I think it's closer to beeing between 30-15° off the vertical.
Reply:Do you think he will get sugaring on the back side of the first pass?
Reply:Sugaring? =)
Reply:Originally Posted by Nick Zwalking the cup... NICE
Reply:M & M's:Since this hasn't been answered today, I'll try. This is for TIG but: picture clipping the MIG wire flush with the nozzle. Now you can wiggle the nozzle along its edges without changing the stick-out length and without dipping the wire (tungsten) into the puddle. Most frequently done in a fillet or the beveled edges of the pipe. Some can also rock their elbow and wrist quite agressively to get an even feed rate with each motion. Maybe something similar to straddling a narrow creek and walking along with a foot on each side. 9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250
Reply:Is this done with no filler rod? I'm having trouble visualizing trying to fit a filler under that cup if the tungston is that short..A butterfly without wings, is just an ugly bug
Reply:the cup isnt at 90 degrees.the tung is well in the cup, almost flush, then you point the cup the direction thatyou want to go and roll your wrist as you roll the cup on the work.probably at 15-20 degrees from the verticle +/-then you can put the filler in from the front, like normalfound ithttp://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/...g-the-cup.htmlG
Reply:Cap is a bit hot, should be a salmon pinky tone. Technique looks great tho.Sugaring is when stainless gets too hot and starts takin in more oxygen. It forms as crystal like lumps or scale on the backside of the weld. To prevent this, backpurge with a non-reactive gas. ie: Argon.
Reply:Thank you for that.I'm a little dense.If the tungstin is flush with the cup , how do you get the arc started, and it seems you would have a very long arc while walking the cup.Or maybe a teeny tiny cup?A butterfly without wings, is just an ugly bug
Reply:The stickout is set for correct arc length by the weldor for the joint type. Flush was just an example of how the cup keeps the tungsten out of the puddle. The hi-freq will start the arc easily over 1/2". Real weldors can hold less than 1/16" arc length. (but not me )I use a 1/2" ID cup diameter and extend the tungsten far enough for the proper arc length. When I'm running a vert up butt joint, I'm looking straight down on the weld and I can use a very short stickout, fillets need more. I haven't done any pipe. Sometimes filler is used regularly and sometimes, when the fitup is very good, those alignment rings are used (installed before putting the pipe together) and fused without additional filler. Another instance is well fitup headers, no filler is used; except for fitup gaps.g'nite Last edited by Craig in Denver; 02-25-2009 at 02:24 AM.9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250
Reply:Originally Posted by BrianstickDo you think he will get sugaring on the back side of the first pass?Originally Posted by Craig in DenverThe stickout is set for correct arc length by the weldor for the joint type. Flush was just an example of how the cup keeps the tungsten out of the puddle. The hi-freq will start the arc easily over 1/2". Real weldors can hold less than 1/16" arc length. (but not me )g'nite
Reply:Originally Posted by SpeenFirst of all, there was no sugaring on the back side. I back purged the whole thing so there was no oxygen present.About the cap, I'm welding using Mison Ar, not pure Argon. Does this effect the color of the weld?
Reply:Lowered the amps on my pipe weld's this week, and they all turned out a nice salmon pinkish red. So yeah, it was abit too hot. Thanks for the input's =P