How much is too much of a gap?

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I'm helping a buddy of mine weld up a bumper for his Jeep, and have a couple of quick questions.  The bumper is from a company that sells them unassembled and unfinished, meaning it will need to be welded and painted.  Part of the package includes two hardpoints for D rings, which will have to be welded to the front of the bumper.  The hardpoints are at least 1" thick/wide, maybe even closer to 1.25-1.5" in width of solid steel.  The actual bumper material itself is either 3/16" or 1/4", but that is not my concern.  My concern is the company made cut outs for the D ring hardpoints, which would allow them to be welded from both sides (front and back) of the bumper.  This seems logical, as it allows for more "weld" area for the D ring attachment points.  The problem, at least as it seems to me, is the cut outs are considerably larger than the hard point attachments.  I know that some gap, say up to 1/8", is not that bad.  These cut outs, on the other hand, leave at least 3/16" or more space on all sides.  So, my question is, what is the max gap you would be comfortable with in this scenario?
Reply:Are you saying that the gap is 3/16" all the way around, or can you split it up and get 3/32"?  Is it too much trouble to send this unit back to the manufacturer? Have you complained to your supplier,and if so, what reply did you get? Just trying to get a handle on some remedies for you.Bgbkwndo.
Reply:Not sure if there is an option to return it, but it may be cost prohibitive.  I personally did not buy the bumper set, I'm just the guy with the welders.  As far as the space goes, its roughly 3/16" all the way around.  There's no way to shorten it up, and it seems to me that the gap is too big to adequately weld (especially for a D ring hard mount).
Reply:Originally Posted by Jason280 and it seems to me that the gap is too big to adequately weld (especially for a D ring hard mount).
Reply:3/16" gap is a piece of cake and will ensure 100% penetration
Reply:practice with some 3/ 32 6011 ,start at 55 amps..
Reply:I personally did not buy the bumper set
Reply:Post a picture. If you put all the heat on the thick piece (using MIG) it'll build up and eventually bridge off and burn into the 3/16". Then burn in the back side. This will give you full penetration... if done right anyway.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:Thanks for the information.  I'll get a few pics and post them, which will do a much better job of showing exactly what I am working with on this project.  My original plan was to use .045 and 75/25 on a Lincoln Power MIG 255, but I could always run 7018 off my Invertec V-250s.  I'm pretty comfortable with both machines, especially on flat welds, but I've never welded with that much of a gap.  Like it was mentioned above, I can always set up a few practice pieces.  Also, any suggestions on a method to "jig" up the piece to keep it in proper position?
Reply:OLD SAYING, " If I can walk across it, I can weld it "
Reply:Are you sure the cutout in the bumper is'nt really for something else????Like to allow you to weld the D ring plate to something attached to the actual frame of the truck instead of the bumper, where it doesn't belong if it's 3/16 plate.  In other words, to allow you to mount the D ring independant of the bumper.  To mount it where it really should be.  To put it in the right place.  As opposed to the worst place on the planet to weld a D ring.I believe I made my point "Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:In other words, the rings would be mounted to frame, and peek thru the holes in the bumper when the bumper is final mounted."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:We'll be able to provide a jiggin' method after you post up those pics.  I'm kinda with farmersamm on this too.  Maybe the holes are for the d ring to poke through. -AaronJet 17.5" Drill Press1942 South Bend 16x84 Lathe1980s Miller 320A / BP --- 2013 Power Mig 2562012 Jet 7x12 Horizontal BandsawVictor O/A Setup
Reply:I don't think that a holet hat is 3/16" ALL THE WAY AROUND is ideal for D-ring attachment.Tim Beeker.
Reply:In other words, the rings would be mounted to frame, and peek thru the holes in the bumper when the bumper is final mounted.
Reply:do you have a like to the bumper manufacture or the kit?
Reply:They're a few companies that sell bumper kits. They're cnc cut / bent into form. Final fitting / welding is completely up to you. 4x4labs.com comes to mind, as I'm leaning heavily to buy a kit from them. The way they mount their d-rings is the shackle mount pokes through the front bumper and gets welded f/r of the plate, but extends back towards the frame mounts, and gets welded directly to the frame mounting horns as well..Miller: 200dx, Bobcat 225, Passport, Powermax 45, Milwaukee: Dry Saw, MagDrill, grinders
Reply:You could weld the mount to a piece of 1/4 stick it through the hole, weld the 1/4 to the back of the bumper, and then weld the front side and fill up the gap. Should make for a strong weld.Offering CNC Plasma cutting and welding projects.Follow me on facebook https://www.facebook.com/nobigdeal.fabSupport those that support WW.
Reply:I asked my Old Lady that very same question once!  How Much of a Gap is Too Much?She slapped the living hell out of me!!
Reply:Originally Posted by InkydoggyI asked my Old Lady that very same question once!  How Much of a Gap is Too Much?She slapped the living hell out of me!!
Reply:I would agree that the rings may be mounted to the frame and poke the bumper opening. That is how most factory hooks are.
Reply:you wanna get slapped, tell her you need to throw in a red shoprag or two for shim.....
Reply:I weld 1/4" gap at work all the time. Just make sure you tack it in enough places to keep the heat from drawing it. If the material is 1", keep most off your heat on the thick material side and allow it to flow over to the thin material. If you blow through just go back and grind a groove in the center of the weld and run another pass.Miller Pro 30068 SA 20064 SAF 300305 G Lincoln gasserMiller 210
Reply:You could weld the mount to a piece of 1/4 stick it through the hole, weld the 1/4 to the back of the bumper, and then weld the front side and fill up the gap. Should make for a strong weld.
Reply:Quick update, I was able to get the bumper welded up without any difficulty.  I ended up using 1/4" backing plates for the hardpoints, and simply stuck them through the cut outs and welded from the front.  I can't remember the exact settings, but I believe I was using around 19v and a wirespeed of 180 or so (.045" wire and 75/25).  The bumper turned out great, and if the bumper bolts are strong enough, you should now be able to lift the entire Jeep by the D-rings.It ain't a gap unless you can fit the stinger in itDisclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:I always figgered if I can step across it, it's not too big!  If I can't, then we have a problem.  6 Miller Big Blue 600 Air Paks2 Miller 400D6 Lincoln LN-25's4 Miller Xtreme 12VS2 Miller Dimension 812 4 Climax BW-3000Z bore welders Hypertherm 65 and 85Bug-O Track BugPair of Welpers
Reply:i would say a rod width.   if you can stick the whole rod in there sideways. its too bigVantage 500's LN-25's, VI-400's, cobramatics, Miller migs, synch 350 LX, Powcon inverters, XMT's, 250 Ton Acurrpress 12' brake, 1/4" 10' Atlantic shear,Koikie plasma table W/ esab plasmas. marvel & hyd-mech saws, pirrana & metal muncher punches.