Practice welds with Front and Back Pictures

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Hello, I'm trying to practice using some flux-core wire, While dealing with some feeding problems, I think over-all the machine is working well and doing its job, but my skill seems to be lacking quite a bit.I have attached 5 pictures showing 5 different welds.If you can please identify which weld is closer to what I need to be looking for, and what I should avoid seeing.A couple I had the power too high i know, as it was melting all the way thou the bed frame, lowering it, got what I think is the desired penetration. but please correct me if needed.I'm trying to go slow, and not rush in moving along the bead, but i noticed quickly when I go too slow, I get a hole in the metal.One upgrade I made today was to trash the hand held mask (I could not see what I was working on)and got a pair of $10 welding goggles from home depot, much much better.and I bought a 10 pound spool of wire, sadly it does not fit on the wire holder as there is a huge hole where it should be little, so for now I'm having to take it off the new spool and put it on my 1lb spool. time consuming, but i don't know where to get the fitting i guess to allow the use of a 10 lb spool.Thanks.--Lincoln Electric Weld-Pak 3200HD Attached Images
Reply:For that lincoln, there is a plastic hub adapter for the 10lbs spool. Should have com with, well, at least my Lincoln did.Furthermore, you better not be welding with welding goggles. You need a welding mask or welding helmet. But not goggles. They are not dark enough nor do they cover the rest of your face. Not being able to see what you are doing is part of the fun, and the reason they invented auto darkening masks.You didn't mention, but are you running flux core wire or solid core wire with shielding gas? Are you sure your polarity is right for the process you are using?One important thing is that you should clean up the metal so it is bare and rust, paint or scale free. Flux core has some tolerance for dirty metal but not much. Judging from the amount of splatter your material is way too dirty and/or you have a setup problem related to polarity or running solid core wire with no shield gas (though the welds look too good for that).Also once you obtain the proper mask, work on steadying your mig gun with both hands. What you need to do is set the tension on your welding mask so that you can nod and have it flip down. You won't be able to see **** until you spark the arc. And if you are welding outdoors which is looks like you are, you might find that background light coming into the mask makes it impossible to see. Work in the shade with back away from the sun.Good start but you have a ways to go.And if we don't hear from you it's probably because you're in agony over how much your eyes hurt after welding with improper goggles!EDIT: To answer your original question the last picture looks the closest to what you're trying to accomplish. But you need to work on setup and material prep before anybody can really assess the welds. Also, I encourage you to actually try fusing two pieces together. You can only tell (and learn) so much from a surface weld.Last edited by chicksdigwagons; 03-05-2009 at 06:19 PM.
Reply:dude   PUT DOWN THE GOGGLES ONLY FOR O/A  welding go get a $20-$25 mask (hood) look for at  pawn shops and as said clean metal.. grinder/or sanding disc in a drill will workquestion????? do you have the manual for the welder.... should have a guide for settings.. read itwhen ya get a hood try again and let us know  but  please please DONT  USE THE GOGGLES
Reply:Sorry, as for the splatter, I am using flux-core wire, innershield NR-211-MP.I bought the machine used at a pawn shop, and assumed it did not have the adapter, after some digging around i found the gas regulator bag and it was in there, so I'm happy about this, though i wasted over an hour rolling a 2 pound spool.ok.. EYES.I'm confused.  I was under the impression that welding goggles, masks, etc were rated by the lens.the mask that comes with the welder is numbered on the lensH Z87 10GogglesSFH Z87.1989. CSA Z94.3I Can see much more light in the goggle lens but if needed i can put the handheld mask shield in the mask.as for safety, i father always used these masks with stick welding commercial ac units, is mig different in the brightness?
Reply:If your goggles look anything like this:Then you definitely have the wrong equipment. Those are only for O/A welding/cutting. Stick, MIG or TIG, you need a full face, darker shield. Any of those welding processes will give you the worst sunburn of your life if you run a lot of weld. They'll do way worse to your eyes if you let them. The Goggles should at filter the UV and keep your eyes from melting.What you need is something that looks like this: That face shield that comes with the Lincolns is pretty dark, maybe as dark as 13. You probably don't need one that dark for low amp basic MIG. I'd probably run a 10. Those goggles might be somewhere around a 5? But it's impossible to know what you bought.
Reply:yeah my face does feel kind of sun burnt, i needed a tan anyways, no more of that.As for the type of goggles, they have a single long lens, the same license from the Lincoln mask fits in it, but I'm going to return them to home depot tomorrow and try to beg a pawn shop to get cheap on a auto-dark mask.here is a pic of the goggles. Attached Images
Reply:Well I haven't seen anyone try to weld metal that rusty in a longtime. Everyone above has it correct you seriosly need to clean up that metal before you try running a bead along it. Their also right about those goggles- strickly O/A. Depending on what your funds are consider wandering by harbor frieght or a similiar store and buy an autodark helmet. There are several good threads about helmets in the Harbor Frieght forum. Buy during sale or with a coupon and you might just save enough to buy one of their grinders to cleanup that metal.check around at your local welding suply shop ypou might be able to pickup that spacer.Last edited by specter; 03-05-2009 at 08:43 PM.Co-Own CNC shop:Miller :1251 plasma cutter, MaxStar 700 TIG/Stick, & XMT 456 Multiprocess Welder.&  2 Hypertherm HPR260's Plasma CutterSorry I had a bad stroke but now I am back.
Reply:For God's sake, please get a good hood.  No. 10 shade, and go from there.The following are 3 different wire welds.  Not the greatest, but I don't do much wire weldingThe welds show my "dialing in" the proper heat.First weld...... too cold.  Notice the high bead.Second and Third weld.......... right heat, only problem is my inexperience with wire welding.  Little bit of undercut, and not such a uniform bead.  Materials are 10ga sheet metal welded to 11ga square tubing.I hope this gives you a starting point.The most important thing is to almost drag the gun, with side to side motion.  Don't try to run it like a stick.  The machine sorta does the manipulation for you.  Don't know how to explain it any better.You will get a slightly concave bead if everything is set up right.These aren't the best examples of high quality flux core welding.  There's a lot better skill out there.  But it will give you an idea of what to look for in a reasonably competent weld. Attached Images"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Thanks for the advice, the pictures help a lot, I'm going to return the goggles in the morning and get my $10 back to put to a mask.I need to get something to clean the metal, I was just playing around with it and not much time went into cleaning it, I only used a small wire brush on the top, and nothing on the bottom.The bedframe was on the side of the road, so no telling how long it has been there, lots of rust.Anyone have any advice on wire type? I do not have a shop to work in, and its been pretty windy here lately, so I hope my investment in the wire was a good one. they had 3 brands, but i stuck to a Lincoln brand.
Reply:I've heard that Lincolns wire is good.  I think it's called Innershield.I use the cheapest stuff goin'.  Weldmark.  But considering my skill level, I guess it's ok.  At least it sticks to the metalThe biggest thing I seem to notice about wire welding is the low voltage, and low conductivity.  Seems that the metal has to be cleaned pretty well in order for half a$$ed good results.  Just enough to get it shiny seems to work wonders.  It may just be that I have a really low powered machine."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by shadowshieldyeah my face does feel kind of sun burnt, i needed a tan anyways...
Reply:Originally Posted by TensaitekiA tan, maybe. Skin cancer, no.The goggles you have appear to have a number 10 filter in them which is dark enough for arc welding but they don't provide full-face shielding from radiation burns and spatter (note: there is no "L" in 'spatter').It shouldn't be 'sticking' to the metal, it should be fusing with it, there is a big difference.
Reply:Originally Posted by TensaitekiA tan, maybe. Skin cancer, no.The goggles you have appear to have a number 10 filter in them which is dark enough for arc welding but they don't provide full-face shielding from radiation burns and spatter (note: there is no "L" in 'spatter').It shouldn't be 'sticking' to the metal, it should be fusing with it, there is a big difference.
Reply:Working out on the mine sites here, I used almost all flux-core wire with shielding gas as well. It's been a couple years, I think most of it was Lincoln wire, possibly Innershield. We were working on 1/2" and thicker mild steel plate, wear bar, things like that. Being a mine site, everything came in grubby. We did a lot of grinding and some wire wheel to clean things up, but we were also using heavy duty machines, 440V supply, so turning up the heat was always an option. I'm pretty sure most things I worked on had a light layer of dirt on 'em, but it worked! Of course this definitely is not critical welds, for the sides of the shovel buckets and critical welds the metal was squeaky clean first.(Just my $.02)Ruth
Reply:WOAH, I'm learning a lot of pointers from this post. Nice job by the way. Pretty impressive!Midwest Metal ProductsMetal Wire Forming Fan Guards Delta-Larm
Reply:On your fifth picture of front and back, it looks like the heat was correct but the wire speed was a little to fast. And as every one has said clean the metal it's half the battle!Miller Thunderbolt 225Millermatic 130 XPLincoln HD 100 Forney C-5bt Arc welderPlasma Cutter Gianteach Cut40ACent Machinery Bandsaw Cent Machinery 16Speed Drill PressChicago Electric 130amp tig/90 ArcHobart 190 Mig spoolgun ready
Reply:Just for s&its and giggles; why not go over to the "www.lincolnelectric.com" web site and down load an operators manual for your welder.   While your there; poke around and read some ot the numerios articals on MIG and FCAW.   BTW Northen tools has a nice autodarkning helmet for around $50.00   Last edited by Billdacat; 03-06-2009 at 08:25 AM.
Reply:I just bought this helmet and peeled off the stickers.  It works GREAT for beginners like you and me.http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...-_-1206-_-CONF
Reply:oh and by the way i have the same welder and I'm running flux core Innershield as well.  Here are a few of my first beads on an old mower blade with .035 wire.  Over on the far right you can see what it looks like if you try to use flux with the polarity reversed.  Then you notice the previous owner had the machine setup wrong and the results are to the left/center!  I wrote my settings down as well for future reference - speed was about half way between 2 and 2.5 and power on B.  Cleaned before and after with a large Lincoln wire brush from Home Depot.  Good luck!
Reply:Here's a pretty good and informative video I found on HTP's web site, click on the link and then scroll down to it, it might be of some help!http://www.htpweld.com/products/mig_...s/mig_160.htmlGood luck!Ken.#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:Shadowshield,Congratulations on your ambition to get started to  weld--and welcome to the site!  You got to start somewhere.  Don't be descouraged, just START RIGHT AND BE SAFE!Protective gear for your face/eyes is #1, number 2 is your hands, number three is any other part of your body that could come into contact with "heat" With a little internet web search you can find lots of information on your machine and the welding processess that it can perform.Download the manual and read it thoroughly firstMake sure the machine is set up properly to perform, get your self set up to make it perform and then set up some practice metal to work on.As others have said the GMAW (mig) or FCAW (fluxcore) process requires the material to be fairly clean to get descent results.Some of us ole guys started like you with a Dream to weld, some fashion of a machine and trial and error!  You have it much easier as you obviously have a camera, the internet and the "smarts" to ask questions.When you get the machine set up, a full face hood (at least a #10 lense) gloves and have read the manual, give us the parameters you have set on the machine, the approximate thickness of the material you are welding and the wire size/type and you will be on your way to a rewarding experience.If you have a HF or similar within driving distance you can get a lot of "cheap" welding supplies there that will get you started.  Heck, I have 10k in equipment and 3 $29 HF grinders that each have a different use and for the most part they work just fine!!Another suggestion is to Google "Mig Welding" on the computer and when you get to "www.tonyweld.com" pull up a comfortable chair and watch his well done videos, they will answer a lot of questions!!!Enjoy the journey!TimA rich man is not the one who has the most but instead one who needs theleast. Retired IUEC local 19AK Bush pilot,  Chaplain  CMA Chapt 26victor torchesMiller110v migDynasty 200dx (new in Dec 08)Hypertherm PM-45MM-252 (new 2/09)
Reply:Thanks for the replies, there is starting to be a lot of very useful information, keep in mind other people will find this thread looking for the same information I am, so you are helping everyone, I for one am grateful.I watched some videos last night on both Lincoln and millers website, and a few on youtube, I think one of the biggest problems I noticed right away is the speed as to I was moving, yes the machine was not setup right as well.So today, I took the #10 lens out of the goggles, and put them in the handheld shield, and went to work on that scrap bedframe with a wire brush until i saw shiny metal. I did not get crazy, just enough to clean that rust off.About that point i remembered a tip in one of the videos, "watch the puddle, and NOT the flash"Harder said than done, but I started to get the hang of it after a few tries.Attached is my results from today's experiment, I think they are starting to look cleaner, I can see on the edges where the rust is still there, but a grinder should prevent that look?or is that the flux in the wire?Here I was trying to practice watching the puddle, and trying to control where it is going, and keep the wire from running away too fast.I know it looks like crap.  This one I am trying to use what I was practicing about the puddle, and I think I did a so-so job at it, You can see some rust coming thou, keep in mind this was taken with a Nikon Digital SLR camera, so every bad detail jumps out in your face and looks 1000 times worse than when using a standard point and shoot camera.My welders settings were set to:Voltage: BWire Speed: 2I was guessing on the metal thickness, I think I got it close.-I should also add that Another issue is I'm crouching down on one knee and the beam is propped up on a small log on each end, I do not have anything higher to work on at this moment, so its very difficult to stay steady, and hold the handheld shield.Last edited by shadowshield; 03-06-2009 at 03:35 PM.
Reply:If you don't already have one, get you a slag hammer, use it then wire brush the crap out of the weld bead, there is still a lot of slag on there, making it hard to see the whole bead well.#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:You need to up your wire feed, voltage, and slow down.
Reply:Here is my huge wire brush I'm using to clean with, its all my wife would let me buy for the money  Attached ImagesAs mentioned several times, SAFETY FIRST !!!!Yes, I'm yelling.Arc welding safety gear included a welding helmet/hood and welding gloves as a MINIMUM.  You already were told about what/why welding goggles are NOT the right protective eyewear and facewear for Arc welding.To arc weld, you need a welder (check).You need some kind of electrode, in your case a wire electrode (check).  The Lincoln NR211-MP Innershield FCAW-S wire is pretty good stuff. (check).You found the included spool adapter to mount the 8 inch diameter spool (10-12 lb of wire on them typically) (check).You need the owner's manual if you don't already have it or didn't already download it from the Lincoln website.   www.lincolnelectric.com  Then go to the "Products" page, and from there to the "Operator Manuals" page.  Type in your machine type/model and you can get the complete operator's manual in PDF format.Also go through the "Knowledge/Training" section and read through the articles about arc welding, safety, wire-feed welding ,etc.Other resources are at the Miller website www.millerwelds.com and at the ESAB website www.esabna.com  and others all over the web.Back to safety.You also need welding gloves to protect your hands and forearms from hot metal, sparks, and the intense IR (infrared) and UV (ultraviolet) energy/radiation that the arc and the molten metal all make.  You also need to protect the rest of your body from those same things, so wear a long sleeve cotton shirt and long pants and (preferably) leather boots when welding.  No welding in shorts and a t-shirt and bare feet!  Read the welding safety info on the websites if you didn't already.The IR can give you a burn, the molten metal can burn you, and the UV can give you a bad 'sunburn' and cumulative skin damage (read that as possibly causing skin cancer).Those same dangers are also there for your eyes.  You only get two eyes, they don't handle damage well at all.    Are your eyes worth $50?  Then get a proper welding helmet/hood.  You can get something decent, if not 'fancy', for about $50.  The included welding shield works OK, but as you found out you have to hold it with one hand and then use your other hand to do everything else.Next, you weld METAL.  You can't really weld rust (some welding processes can -tolerate- certain amounts of 'not-metal', others can't handle much if any).  So you have to get the rust (and anything else that is not clean shiny metal) off before you weld.  A wire brush is a handy and necessary tool, but it really won't get the heavy rust off.  A handheld electric grinder, with a grinding wheel or other abrasive 'thing', is the usual tool of choice to clean the metal down to bare shiny steel.Take the reclaimed piece of bed frame, clean an area to clean shiny steel, and then lay one piece of bed frame angle on top of another piece.  Then weld the EDGE of the top piece sort of like farmersamm did in post #8 up above.  Welding on the edge (with a lap joint, which is what that kind of joint is called) lets you look at the edge and watch as the arc MELTS the metal and the wire fills it in.Practice, read, ask, practice more.But SAFETY FIRST !!!For some bedframe steel (which is usually about 1/8 inch or so steel), with 0.035 inch diameter Lincoln NR211-MP wire you should have the machine set to about voltage D and wire speed 3.  So B-2 is too low of a setting.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:I know about all the safety items, i have that down using the shield, i cant afford a mask right now, and i do have gloves, and wear a cotton hoody when welding.as for your suggestion of power setting, the metal is not that thick, its somewhere between 16 and 12 ga steel.the unit has a chart showing how thick something is and the power setting to use, even for 14 ga its only C, and speed 2.5, but using C causes me to blow through the metal when going as slow as suggested.Using D I can actually cut the metal in half like a torch.
Reply:OK, then that bedframe is a bit thinner than I remember bedframe steel.D-3 too much and B-2 too little?  Try C-2.Yup, you use the chart on the inside of the wire-compartment door and measure/estimate the metal thickness (or just measure it somehow), and then go down the chart for the suggested settings and the size/type of wire you are using.Practice, practice, practice.  Try the lap-weld and watch the arc melt the edge and the melting wire fill it back up.  Well, you don't really usually want to watch the arc when you are welding.  You want to watch the puddle of molten metal just behind the arc.  But you get the idea.Note:  You can change the wire speed on that machine AS you are welding in order to adjust things.  But if you are holding the shield in one hand and welding with the other hand holding the torch/gun, then you need three hands  or an assistant in order to adjust the wire speed while you are welding.  Or you try a weld, stop, adjust slightly, try again, repeat until it's 'good'.But you have to STOP welding before you can change the voltage setting knob oryou will damage the machine.  Just the way some machines are.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Moonrise!You where thinking right, just the wrong era!The old frames where made of 1/8" angle, more recently they have been getting thinner by the year starting a hand full of years back!Before long, they will be made of thin gage sheet over plastic, then? #1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:i found some piece of a car?it was a little thinner than the bedframe, but i figured i would try voltage c, and 3 for speed.here are the results, i realize now after cropping the images, that i should NOT have run back over my original weld to fill in the gaps, as it made piles of blobs everywhere.also There were two holes in the car piece, can't have that, so i tried to weld the edge of the holes, then use the wire as a filler, in daylight i think a better job could have been done, its already 7pm here, and I did it with little light.here are the pics, including the back with no welding showing heat discoloration.UPDATE: I tried standing on the welded part from the unwelded side, and it did not snap, (i weigh 245lbs)I guess that is good. Attached ImagesLast edited by shadowshield; 03-06-2009 at 07:13 PM.
Reply:also in the last picture, yes that is a burnt spot in the grass. i had to do a little tap-dance to put it out.(there was a fire extinguisher next to me, I just don't want to use it unless i have to)
Reply:Hey welcome Shadow,  I am relatively new to welding, also like most, I learned the hard way.  You are getting some good advice you should heed.  Early on I got some serious burns on my arms by being lazy and not putting on long sleeves, I have gotten hot slag in my eye chipping w/o safety glasses on, (Always, Always, Always wear safety glasses in the shop!), I burnt a hole in the top of my foot welding w/ tennis shoes (That hurt like hell) , got abit of welding fever from breathing too much fumes, and those are the ones that just come to mind.  Have alot of fun welding, read, practice, ask questions but please be learn how to be safe!!
Reply:A lot of new mig welders think that they can run the gun with one hand, but it is nearly impossible (even the best will use both hands)  To get a uniform weld bead the distance the wire is from the metal is critical!  What I see is that your are varying that distance quite a bit.  Your weld bead shape and , penetration will be impossible to maintain without being steady!  You are making progress!  Tell the misses that it a safety issue that you have a hood that you don't have to hold (you can get one for less then the price of one boot! and you definetly need a chipping hammer and a 4-1/2" grinder.  (as my wife says)  "I can have anything I want as long as I sell something I am not using to buy it!"TimA rich man is not the one who has the most but instead one who needs theleast. Retired IUEC local 19AK Bush pilot,  Chaplain  CMA Chapt 26victor torchesMiller110v migDynasty 200dx (new in Dec 08)Hypertherm PM-45MM-252 (new 2/09)
Reply:Originally Posted by Ultrachop(as my wife says)  "I can have anything I want as long as I sell something I am not using to buy it!"Tim
Reply:Even when I did have my wife, what ever I needed I got. I make the money, I pay the bills.Tim Beeker.
Reply:"man that think he make all the decisions in the house has a very smart wife" ????I don't  think I will trade either, the older I get the better she cooks! or was that looks?TimA rich man is not the one who has the most but instead one who needs theleast. Retired IUEC local 19AK Bush pilot,  Chaplain  CMA Chapt 26victor torchesMiller110v migDynasty 200dx (new in Dec 08)Hypertherm PM-45MM-252 (new 2/09)
Reply:I was just jocking!I couldn't get rid of mine either.She makes thee best home made biscuits and sausage gravy, this side of the mason dixon!#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:tha t is a good brush it will get into tight spots.. if its windy geta piece of tarp and build you a shield...good first project...light metal frame to support your wind shield...then you weld a hook on it for your brush...then add a shelf and a table and a place for your fire extinguisher...welcome..
Reply:Besides all this other great safety advice, I'd like to add that angle grinders can also be dangerous. They can fling metal and blade debris at high speeds. And they will cut flesh, so wear gloves while cutting and grinding. I sliced a tendon in half a few years back - it only took 1/4 of a second. I was lucky a surgeon was on call that only does hands.If you don't have a HF near you, Walmart has cheap Black and Decker grinders for about $30. They're decent enough.I haven't done FC for a long time, but it appears that your beads are mostly laying on top of the steel. You don't want the wire to act as a glue to hold 2 pieces together, you want it to cause the 2 pieces to flow into each other. Once you achieve that, the joint will look like one piece. Then you will smile, knowing that you have 'plucked the pebble from the masters hand. '"We live in an age when unnecessary things are our only necessities. "   - Oscar WildeMaxstar STL150Eagle CPM30 Bender
Reply:nothin more from him.... *wonders if he never got a hood and burned holes in his eyes*nothing fancy, just a few hot glue guns for metalwww.sicfabrications.com
Reply:I have discovered the joy of using a needle scaler to clean up rusted/weathered metal before welding.  If you have access to compressed air and will be working with rusty metal then get a needle scaler ($60 at Northern Tool) - especially if the metal has weird corners or hard to reach areas.Repairs on my equipment trailer went from hard to almost not hard once I switched from wire wheel and sander to the needle scaler.  Best money I have spent for metal prep.Hobart LX235Victor 250 Oxy-Acetylene Rig (welding and cutting)Bobcat 773F-350, 1999, 4x4, 16' 10K# trailerOutdoor Wood Burner - 10 cords/year
Reply:The answer to the all of the questions that have been raised is easy, it is.......drum roll....................COMMUNITY COLLEGE.