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Metal composition on Kawasaki 2005 ZX10 engine cover?

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发表于 2021-8-31 23:48:10 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
Anybody know the metal composition that kawasaki uses on a 2005 ZX10 engine castings?  I layed mine over a few months ago.  20mph corner and some gravel.  I ended up with a broken collarbone.  The bike didn't get much damage except for one cover that sticks out quite far.  It ground/broke off about 1/4" by 2" edge of the cover.  I haven't priced a new cover.  I'm sure it costs less than the effort to repair the broken one, but I want to give it a shot.  You don't learn if you don't try.  Worst case I buy a new cover like I would have done anyway.I'm not too knowledgeable on aluminum (possibly magnesium) castings and proper filler rods.  Can anyone enlighten me?Dynasty200DX w/coolmate1MM210MM VintageESAB miniarc161ltsLincoln AC225Victor O/A, Smith AW1ACutmaster 81IR 2475N7.5FPRage3Jancy USA1019" SBAEAD-200LE
Reply:Could be cast Aluminum..Could be cast Magnesium..Test with a file..Make some shavings and see what a flame does to them...Aluminum will do nothing..Mag will "Sparkle"...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Not sure of the composition; when I raced bikes, we did this all the time. Is there a crack that runs to the edge of the cover?? If so, you need to have it ground flat after welding, or it's going to leak oil, causing problems. (You might get to break that other collarbone!!) Anyhoo, we used to clean them up, and weld a patch piece of 1/8" material on. 5356 filler, the cast alum. has a bit of mag in them, and the heat is not high enough to give service issues from embrittlement. You can use 4043 filler, if you like. You will likely need to maniacally clean that part in a solvent tank, and then cut the crack clean with a porting tool. I found that to be a much better way to get rid of the oily edge of the cast that does not like being welded, no matter how clean you get it.So, clean it up, and then make your patch. Tack it in 2 spots. Bolt the cover back on, and weld it there. Let it cool, then remove it, and paint it. A new gasket, and install it.The ZX10 did not use a magnesium cace cover. Weight was not a huge factor for a bike with the power of an F14 stuffed into a 2 wheel chassis!!!Last edited by Rojodiablo; 09-25-2010 at 12:15 PM.And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:Originally Posted by RojodiabloIs there a crack that runs to the edge of the cover?? If so, you need to have it ground flat after welding,
Reply:Originally Posted by AndyAYes the edge of the cover is actually missing.  I planned on doing a build-up.  Grinding it back fairly close to the original shape.  Then making the mating surface flat using a some adhesive sandpaper on the surface plate.  A little 1104 gasket compound should get it leak free.I haven't even taken anything apart yet.  This may turn into a complete tear-down if there's any possibility of trash getting down in there
Reply:Ask Riceburner. He's the authority on everything Kawi.www.stevericeracing.com
Reply:Kwaka's usually have Magnesium written on the part if they are Mag. My mates ZX12 cam cover is, well it must be It says so on the casting
Reply:Got any pics?It may have the alloy designation letters/numbers cast into it as Shox Dr mentioned.If it is aluminum, I'd recommend getting any bushings/bearings out or masked off, degrease it the best you can and then sandblast with 240 aluminum oxide.  That should get it good and clean for welding.
Reply:I believe the covers are all Magnesium, exhaust should be Ti.
Reply:Originally Posted by riceburnerI believe the covers are all Magnesium, exhaust should be Ti.
Reply:Most covers I have repaired have been cast Magnesium.
Reply:Epoxy it.  I've punched many holes in the magnesium clutch covers on my Hondas.  Epoxy is the best and easiest repair.  Welding will warp the cover.
Reply:spend the 140 bucks and replace it...geez man ya spent 10k on the bike and ya wanna rig it..gez
Reply:Originally Posted by dieselbeefspend the 140 bucks and replace it...geez man ya spent 10k on the bike and ya wanna rig it..gez
Reply:Hey AndyA - I can't say what material your Kawasaki cover is, but if it is anything like a Honda crankcase cover I worked on a few days ago, it may weld up very nicely.I put some pics of that welded cover (before and after welding) here, which you may be interested in checking out:http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=45036Also, as a "metallurgy test", before committing to doing the repair on the final piece, take one of the broken "chips" (as it sounds like a few fractured out in your case you were planning on not using...), and try melting a puddle and dabbing some filler material into it, say some magnesium filler, or some 4043, and see what works best before committing to the final welds.Last edited by jakeru; 09-29-2010 at 06:29 PM.
Reply:I don't know if you priced a new part, but Kawi parts are big bucks.... They wanted $35 for a turn signal flasher, I ended up going to wal mart and getting the exact (same size/same shape) flasher for $1.98... But i love them Kawies.
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