finished mud motor

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i posted pics before and nobody said anything so here it is againf now finishedand one with all my toys none of them work right yet..things i shoud have done different:1.) used thicker plate to mount motor, i relied on the flat bar to stiffen the plate to save money but it's best to buy plate thick enought o handle it w/o the flat stock.2.) the washer between the two plates is only about 1 3/4 " in diameter, and i have about 4 of them stacked on top of eacthother. try to use only 1 maybe 2 that are as large as you can get, then spread a little grease on them. that is how all the big manufacturers do it, and it is the best way. 3.) i need to put on a new handle. because the plate is so thin the handle bends the plate a little, then with the motor vibrating so much it won't be long till it breaksall these thing are things that wil just make it not last as long but hopefully it'll last this season, then when i get a job it'll be bullet proof
Reply:Looks good, as you say there's things to change but that's part of the learning curve, take note of my signature!!! Not being critical, but I wonder about the U-joint angle. Will it be too great? I started making one from an angle head weed eater while living in Idaho. Couldn't get my only local, lazy machinist to make the adapter for the prop shaft. I gave it to a friend before we moved.                            MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:What exactly is a "mud motor"?  Is it so you can go in shallower water than a normal outboard or trolling motor?  Looks pretty neat.  What did you use for the bearings on the shaft and driveshaft?
Reply:fishon91,Alot of work obviously went into that build and as Mike indicated, we should strive to get better by looking at what we do and make improvements on the next go around.I also agree with Mike on the joint angle which I'd wager is where 95% or more of your vibration is coming from.  The output side of a cardan type u-joint (what you have there) is constantly accelerating and decelerating as it rotates through 360 degrees so your prop shaft is doing the same.  At the same time, with a larger operating angle such as you have there results in significant varying side loading as the joint rotates.  The combination of the two result in excessive and undesireable vibration.A few possible solutions:1) Drive the prop shaft straight off the crank which would probably result in excessive engine operating angle with the prop shaft at the appropriate operating angle.2) Use a two joint setup to split the total operating angle equally between the two to reduce side loading and provide proper joint cancellation and a constant prop shaft speed.3) Pull the driveshaft out of that Bayou 220 and use the CV joint assembly from it for the smoothest running setup of all.Still a good looking job that simply needs a little 'fine tuning'. Last edited by duaneb55; 09-12-2009 at 12:55 PM.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:well that wasn't something i really though of, atleast not the vibration factor. thats a lot of work to change it, but can be done for nothing.  lets wait and see it in the water first.i did start it yesterday for little bit b/c the shaft is dry right now.  but i din't feel much vibration like it was anything more than the motor.  by next week it'll be in the water.btw a mud motor is simply an air cooled boat motor built to push a boat through nearly no water or where the water is so dirty a regular outboard motor could not uck up water or would get clogged up by the mud.
Reply:Well it looks like that joint could be operating close to the maximum recommended depending on how fast you'll be running it.  The faster it turns and the greater the joint operaing angle, the greater the chance for vibration.  I took it you were experiencing excessive vibration from your third comment/observation in the original post.  Run it when you get it in the water and go from there.Keep us posted.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:just a little info on the bayou 220:  i got ir for free from a neighbor whose son went off to a camp and left it in their driveway with half an axle in a box.  i trailered it home, thought long and hard, well as hard as i can atleast, and put it back together.  when i finally got a longer pull cord and got it started gears just grinded.  ive got it now to where it can go backwards easily, but final gear won't catch going forwards.  another $50 in parts and it should be moving, but i still need new brake cables and a starter.maybe i'll just put that bigass pipe on the front, when i need to stop i'll just find somethin to run into
Reply:Now that is sweet I wish we had a swamp to take something like that into,all we get is rain lol
Reply:those bayou 220s are pretty fun and it looks like the OP got pretty aggressive when he cut the rear plastic.  Hope you get it going, the one I just got going is pretty fun.MikeConstans Fides et IntegritasLincoln Weldanpower 150 ACAirco Aircomatic MIGet CAV II w/ spoolgunMillermatic 30a wirefeeder
Reply:alright i got my last parts in today, put the seals and everything together, greased it all up, and started it.  after running for a little whot smoke all of a sudden started coming out exhaust.  dad said it was just moisture and it was fine to keep going.  starts easily but then shaft was slipping.  so i'm gonna get cotter pins(not sure of name but the kinds used on axle/castle nuts).  i know i proabably should make a keyway, but that'll take a lot of time, mostly to take out shaft, and i'm not quite sure of the right way to do it either.
Reply:took it out for the third run today, and ran good.  the throttle right now is hoked striaght to the plate which was a very dumb idea, and lever has no spring so when choke is off, it automatically pulls the lever back.  throttle is very very sensitive.  also it takes a little bit ofr depth to get the prop to really catch, and it feels like it rests against a wall or something, and i've gotta keep it pushed down against that "wall" to keep it moving good.  after making three small circles i was wore outbtw, cotter pins was another dumb idea.  they lasted about half a circle and broke.  i used a steel rod to put through the holes, heated and beat both ends of the rod, so if i ever need to pull the shaft or something i gotta make new rods.  hope i sell it before then.  lol
Reply:http://cgi.ebay.com/mad-long-tailed-...item335e885373Found this on ebay for building a mud motor