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Need some ss help

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发表于 2021-8-31 23:44:55 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
I'm currently working on my 6g 6 inch stainless steel certification. I was hoping some one could give me the best way to set up. Best way to purge? Knife edge or 1/16th landing? I'm walking the cup lay wire, still have sugaring and barely any penetration. Anything helps old tricks. Best size wire for root etc. thanks!!
Reply:The way I go about it would be no land with a 5/32" gap. I use cardboard and masking tape to make a purge dam for top and bottom. Make a small hole in the bottom cardboard and run your purge hose through it. Make sure you got some cloth or fabric wrapped around the end of the purge hose that way it disperses even instead of just streaming out. Lol I use my kids old baby socks around the end of my purge hose. On the top purge dam make a few small holes and then tape them up. I would use 1/8" for my filler. Make sure you tape up you bevel and just open up 1 quarter of the pipe at a time. I don't really use my flowmeter to gauge how much purge I'm using. I lick the back of my hand and hold it up to the bevel and adjust by feel. Feather the crap out of your tacks and make sure your keeping your wire down below the weld gap. If your just laying it in there you will not get much penetration. Freehand your bead in for now. Later when you are skilled enough you can walk the bead in but don't necessarily have to. That may be another reason for the lack of penetration. Also when your coming into your last tack pull the tape off the top hole in your purge dam that way you don't have pressure inside that will keep pushing your tie in to that last tack out. If you got any more ?'s just ask.Last edited by slim83; 08-23-2012 at 09:26 PM.
Reply:Don't "lay" the wire.... Increase your angle just a bit so as you melt the wire your pushing just a little more wire into the pipe.Feathered edge (no land) with just enough gap so your rod doesn't drop into the pipe. The stainless will draw the gap closed as you run the root. If your putting in 4 tacks you may want to insert wedges between the tacks to hold your gap open a little. Make the wedges really short so they don't interfere with your filler wire and you can run up close to the wedge.Sugar = 1) Increase your purge until it causes you a different problem like pushing the root out. Then cut back a little on the purge. Like slim83 says above ... be sure your purging through the lowest point and venting the high point. 2) Decrease the size cup your using on the root and suck the tungsten back in a little. You have 1) increased filler rod angle and 2) gone to a smaller TIG cup and 3) don't have your tungsten sticking out as much. This will increase the angle of the fire (heat) coming off the end of the tungsten. Basically you will be "focusing" the end of the filler rod and the fire off the tungsten toward the center of the pipe.Good Luck.HoboLincoln SA200's... at least 15 - 20. They come and go. Growing partial to the "Short Hoods" in my old age. Last count on Short Hoods was 13 in possession.
Reply:I have a good walk. I did a six inch carbon steel came out flawless. Looking back at the first time my instructor and I realized the vent was way to big leaking all the argon out. So basically I just want the verY end of the filler rod on a bevel? Don't leave it in the center of the two? I feel free handing would be a little harder then just walking the cup. I picked it up pretty quick seeing how I did it for about 20 hours over a few days. Thanks for all the info guys I'm sure it's going to do wonders
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