Fireplace Blower

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I have been wanting to build one of these for a while. This version was just a quick test run. I am not sure if I will make another because I plan on moving and will have to tailor it to the new fireplace. I have a bunch of people who give me free wood so one of these seemed like a great idea. I made it yesterday and tested it. It worked great and I think it would definetly be worth building a more elaborate one. Attached Images
Reply:Looks pretty good, They sell square U bolts.You have to learn the rules of the game. And then you have to play better than anyone else. Albert Einstein
Reply:Yeah I know, I had to pick up a fuel filter for my car yesterday so I figured I would just grab some muffler clamps and save myself a trip.
Reply:where you join the tube to the angle piece, if you would have cut both tube sections at an angle (instead of one at an angle and one straight) you could have avoided that jog in the tubing and improved airflow.If that makes any sense.good concept though
Reply:I am aware it could be improved upon. "This version was just a quick test run." I built this on my porch in 20 degreee weather with a sawz-all, angle grinder, workmate, and my hobart handler.Also I am aware of airflow restriction, besides the fact that it was a "test run" I figured restricted airflow wouldnt hurt too bad considering the air will just have more time to heat up as its restricted.
Reply:i was thinkin slow that blower down to get some time in the heat..even a small  blower like that can get air up to several hundred feet/second, which means its whistling through and not heating up...
Reply:Originally Posted by weldbeadi was thinkin slow that blower down to get some time in the heat..even a small  blower like that can get air up to several hundred feet/second, which means its whistling through and not heating up...
Reply:Great idea! I've been trying to come up with a way to keep some heat in the living room instead of 80 % of it going out the chimney. What kind of blower is that?
Reply:You can get more heat in the room if you build the fire differently.  I took the idea here http://texasfireframe.com/ and just stack the wood that way - no metal frame needed.Use a larger round back log (8"-10"), a smaller top log (6") and support the ends of the 6" log on a couple of short pieces (6" - 8", depending on the size of the grate).  Fill the "hole" in the center withh smaller wood pieces and let them create a good bed of coals.  I quickly see a 4 degree rise in the temperature of the sofa that's 8 feet from the fireplace when building this type fire.  Forcing the radiant heat out through the "window" does keep more heat in the room.  Since this is a welding forum, I expect that anyone who wants a "fireframe" can build one in a matter of hours.My fireplace has a 4 foot wide firebox and smoke marks on the brick indicate that a previous owner thought the chimney could handle a fire with logs nearly as wide as the firebox.  I never use anything bigger than 24" long wood - the chimney is a good size, but not intended for a castle kitchen fireplace (for those who've seen the almost-walk-in fireplaces in some of the castles in the UK).JohnLast edited by papaof2; 12-16-2010 at 03:51 PM.
Reply:The fast air speed shouldn't hurt anything.  Yes, a particular bit of air doesn't get as hot, but you'll transfer more heat overall with faster air flow.  The more difference in temperature the better a heat exchanger works.You really want to put the heat exchanger above the fire.  You'd like to keep the flames really really hot so you get a really good burn.  Put a cold surface in the flame and you'll get carbon on the cold surface.  That carbon could have been burned to make more heat.  In this setup it probably won't make a noticable difference either way.  Also any heat above the flames is just going to go out the chimney.  You'd like to put most of that heat into the room instead of sending it up the chimney.  You need to leave some heat in the chimney to keep it a proper draft.  I doubt your heat exchanger can remove enough heat to cause chimney problems so I wouldn't worry about that either.Dynasty200DX w/coolmate1MM210MM VintageESAB miniarc161ltsLincoln AC225Victor O/A, Smith AW1ACutmaster 81IR 2475N7.5FPRage3Jancy USA1019" SBAEAD-200LE
Reply:I'd love to see how that works out for you.The biggest improvement I made in heat output to my fireplace, was placing a large 8 gauge stainless sheet against the back wall.  It reflects so much heat that I must wear gloves even when I place logs in with my tongs (I've got a pair of Tillman 850's by the fireplace, which I need to use or else I end up burning the hair on the top of my arms).  An iron fireback serves the same purpose.I've seen these blowers in all sorts of designs, but all I can say is don't go too crazy with it.If you remove too much heat from an open fire, you'll drop the flue temperature and build up creosote faster.  If you're really serious about heating with wood, a stove is the way to go, but for the occasional fire, getting more heat into the house than it sucks up the flue is still a good improvement.Oh, and typically, you don't use these with a log rack, you make it into the log rack.Weld on a couple of feet to get it off the floor, and something in the front to act as andiron guards.Last edited by rlitman; 12-16-2010 at 04:44 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by austinpaceGreat idea! I've been trying to come up with a way to keep some heat in the living room instead of 80 % of it going out the chimney. What kind of blower is that?
Reply:good idea using square tube, usually I see these using round which geometrically speaking will give the air the least amount of contact with the hot surfaces. Really thin rectangular tubing would be best.and if the restricted flow at the beginning and end allow for slower air movement between the double tubes give the air more time to heat up and more surface area to contact, all the better!I'm considering a VERY complex design which will use ALOT of thin rectangular tubes and BE the grate and surround the whole fireI think you are on the right track Last edited by kenklingerman; 12-16-2010 at 06:21 PM.HH187Hobart 500i plasma cutterClark 4.5" GrinderDewalt 14" chop saw30 gallom 1.6 hp compressor10 gallon pressure pot sand blasterlots of hand tools
Reply:I built one of these when I was younger.  We used 4" gas line pipe.  It worked well, but you had to keep the old coals cleaned out, or they acted as insulation.  If I were to do It again I would find a way to attach it to the upper part of the fireplace, before the flue.  According to fireplace size, it would always be in the flames and you wouldn't have to worry about the ashes.Making dirt dobbers proud with every weld!!!!!!!AHP Alphatig 200X
Reply:Great idea, much along the lines of a heatolater, If you REALLY want to get more heat out of your fireplace do a google search on "upside down fire" I know it sounds crazy, BUT IT WORKS, you use MUCH less wood, have more heat, burn the wood more completly so you have less ash, etc etc. I tryed it in the fireplace with a stack of wood that reached the flue, No stand, build rite on the floor of the heat box, it takes about 40 min to really take off, but man does it work,and with your blower unit it will burn you out of the room!SA 200square wave 175 proairco 250airco dip pacsouth bend lathemilling machine
Reply:If you really want to get the heat out of your wood, take a look here http://mha-net.org/MillerMatic 252, HTP 221 w/cooler, Hypertherm PM45, Lincoln IdealArc 250 AC/DC"I'd like to believe as many true things and as few false things as possible"