.065 wall 1" od tubing.

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Hello, i just bought a hobart 140 and my goal is to produce a couple of automotive performance products.Im using .030 flux core wire and no shielding gas.volts on setting 2 and wire feed is around 25. I have tried many different positions speeds travel angles ect ect i just cant seem to get a decent weld on this tubing. I asked a close friend of mine what i should do and he just replied with a snappy, "get gas and smaller wire" Is he right? Should i invest in a 75/25 argon c02 tank and some smaller wire or are there some other ways i can produce better welds with my current setup? heres the prototype i was working on today. EDIT: I welded on some 1/8th inch steel plates and the welder is fully capable of producing some very smooth consistent beads i was very impressed with the strength of the welds i was getting. I just cant get it to work worth a crap on this tubing.Last edited by Derv; 10-09-2009 at 04:27 AM.
Reply:Originally Posted by DervHello, i just bought a hobart 140 and my goal is to produce a couple of automotive performance products.Im using .030 flux core wire and no shielding gas.volts on setting 2 and wire feed is around 25. I have tried many different positions speeds travel angles ect ect i just cant seem to get a decent weld on this tubing. I asked a close friend of mine what i should do and he just replied with a snappy, "get gas and smaller wire" Is he right? Should i invest in a 75/25 argon c02 tank and some smaller wire or are there some other ways i can produce better welds with my current setup? heres the prototype i was working on today. EDIT: I welded on some 1/8th inch steel plates and the welder is fully capable of producing some very smooth consistent beads i was very impressed with the strength of the welds i was getting. I just cant get it to work worth a crap on this tubing.
Reply:I would personally recommend TIG for appearance, and strength quality.On such a small part, it would be difficult to get purdy weld using wire feed.Unless you had some kind of turning jig made up to roll the piece being welded.6"XX P5P8 6G
Reply:I'll 2nd the TIG suggestion.If that is not an option, get the gas and solid wire.....them welds is nasty lookin'.Do you turn your own ends for the tubes? If so, you might want to use your lathe when you weld them up.Reexamining the first pic, why don't you consider using adjustable rod ends at each end instead of having the adjustment point in the middle?RexLast edited by rode2rouen; 10-09-2009 at 03:27 PM.
Reply:Your machine is plenty capable for that job and the welds themselves are not difficult to do with practice.   More practice is what you need - lots more.
Reply:Make sure the metal is ground down to shiny before you weld.  Definitely test (and retest and retest) if your welds are structural (or hazardous in any way if they were to fail).  You can grind the finished product smooth to make it more presentable.  But more practice is the only way to make the welds look (and hold) better.Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:Ha! Everybody missed the easy answer, so I'll make it easy for you. You need to preheat the threaded bushing with a mapp torch to get it around 400+degrees to start off. You are sending all your energy to heat that base material, and it is THICK compared to the .065 tube. The tube also wicks away heat faster with the extra surface area. Get a torch, propane or mapp gas, and heat that thing and try it again, see how the weld changes for you. Get the welder set up so you can weld 1/8" plate well, and start with those settings. I bet an ice cream cone you will be doing much, much better. (I don't drink any more, so no beer bet for me...)And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:Your machine is set too low for thickness of the metal, from the looks of it.The pre-heat idea is a good one too.You can do it with the wire and machine you have.  Solid wire and gas will be alittle cleaner.I agree I would use tig instead of mig, but if mig is all you have, then mig it is.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Originally Posted by rode2rouenReexamining the first pic, why don't you consider using adjustable rod ends at each end instead of having the adjustment point in the middle?Rex
Reply:I'm not familiar enough with the Hobart 140 to determine much regarding your machine settings although the welds do look cold.Just curious, do you have it set up for the proper polarity for flux core?  Should be electrode (wire) negative.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:I have never run this welder I have however run many different brands of 140a 110v "mig" guns. This thread is not about the proper settings or useing FC wire this is about welding 101 and the OP failed miserably. Sir with all respect I can muster you have not welded... maybe ever. Your lacking of any real fusion shows me you don't have much of an understanding of what welding is. My advise get some instruction. From people you can look in the eye. Good Luck
Reply:He said he just bought the machine.  It's probly his first mig welder.  He is going to have to keep practicing and asking advice.  He may not know anyone personally who can teach him.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op