Advice/Opinions Please

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OK guys, I'm really just getting started in welding.  I'm restoring a car and eventually, I'm going to build a chassis for another car (that's probably a few years down the road, though).  I'm soliciting opinions on what to get.  Right now I've got an O2/Acc. set up that I'm learning on (making my coupons, so-to-speak), but will purchase a "Buzz" box pretty soon.  I was looking at an Hobart "Stickmate", but some on this forum have suggested I purchase a used Lincoln, or something.  What say you on a used Lincoln AC 225?  How about a Century K2790-1?  I kinda like the Miller Thunderbolt, too, but I know nothing about what to get.  Also, I need DC to weld aluminum, correct?Thanks"Never mistake education for intelligence."AIRCO Oxy/AccMiller Thunderbolt
Reply:Give up the idea you will stick weld alum. It's not easy at all and generally is only useful if you need to weld thick alum. The results will simply be "ugly".As far as a machine, the Century you listed is fairly limited. The Lincoln AC225, Miller Tunderbolt or Hobart ( pretty much a clone of the Miller) are better machines. Dc would be nice to have, as most rods run smother on DC, but that will add to the cost some what.Note that a stick welder will be of limited use in car restoration. Most of what you will be capable of doing at your basic skill level will be sheet metal repairs. Stick is a poor choice for sheet metal however. Stick is better suited for heavier steel. You will find very few parts of a car heavy enough to be a good project for a stick welder, and those pieces are usually structural like trailer hitches, and your skill set is a very long ways away from doing structural welds on vehicle parts.Mig would be a better choice for thin sheet metal work. Also mig is a much better choice for alum. You will need to at least a 180 amp or better 230v mig to even think about alum. 180 amps will max out doing 1/8" alum. A 200 amp machine would be a better choice and give you up to 3/16" alum and more control on thinner alum. A 200 amp class mig can be turned down to do thin sheet metal, or turned up to do about 3/8" steel. The down side is you will be looking at a much higher price tag. New figure $800-1000, and then add maybe $200-300 for a spoolgun minimum to do alum..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Alright!  This helps tremendously."Never mistake education for intelligence."AIRCO Oxy/AccMiller Thunderbolt
Reply:DSW is right MIG would be preferred for sheet metal but if you really want a stick machine I would get something like this. Maybe even new, not somebody's old junk. Good deal if you can get it for under $400. Forget the buzz boxes. Having a stick machine is good, maybe get a MIG at some point in the future.http://www.bing.com/shopping/lincoln...20dc&FORM=HUREUsing the stick machine you can also weld sheet metal, just get the right set up. Eastwood makes a stitcher attachment that works good. I've used one of them for years. They used to sell a special rod for it (they were reddish in color, ran very good) but now apparently you just use any of the quality 1/16" 6013 rods. They should say Quik or Easy Strike, most will. With a lil practice can do a fairly good job. Part of it is getting the sheet metal fit up good, doing a lil flange overlap is good. Eastwood also sells couple of tools to do that. This method in general will be cheaper than MIG. No real reason to buy the rods from Eastwood, probably a bunch cheaper local suppliers. I might not try to use those Harbour Freight rods for this purpose. You want a good quality rod, I sort of like the ones from Campbell Hausfeld if I can get them cheap enough. Whatever they should be easy to start and run smooth, done right you don't really get much burn thru, bead will be pretty much flat. You can even fill holes using it. Should be relatively easy to master. Not only good on sheet metal but many smaller welding jobs where there ain't a lot of mass.http://www.eastwood.com/stitch-welde...ncluded-1.htmlRead the reviews for the stitcher. Maybe some issues today, maybe they didn't follow instructions, it takes a wee bit to master it. Cost a lot more than I paid many years ago. I still got and use the original one from way back when. The guys having problems could have been using the wrong / cheap rods. I've still got some of the original ones designed for the purpose. Like the one guy sezs you just lay it down and don't get fancy, let the machine do the job.http://www.eastwood.com/flanger-punc...atic-7-32.htmlhttp://www.eastwood.com/panel-flange...nd-x-wide.htmlTo do aluminum you can't use this.
Reply:If given the choice, it's Tig for Ali every day of the week. But Mig can do it. Tig is a closer set up to what you're practicing right now anyway. THe issue is price. Tig machines are typically more expensive. new and used. Many of them will also work as a stick welder too. so there is that added benefit.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:...... Liken your situation to a man who needs to travel from Point A to Point B.1) - You have two good legs, simply walk.2) - Desire for speed comes into play and you consider a bicycle.3) - Having the capacity to carry a package would be good... perhaps a scooter.4) - It would be nice to carry a friend with you, perhaps a side car.5) - The rainy season is approaching ... hmmmmm maybe a two seater convertible....You see where I'm going with this line of thought?By the time you obtain a lot of stuff that really doesn't fill the bill..... you could have purchased a lot more welding machine than you could ever need. Read all the post from guys who are needing to "trade up"..... How many post can you find from a guy that says "I've got more machine than I need"?????Buy more now than you think you will ever need.Thanks,HoboLincoln SA200's... at least 15 - 20. They come and go. Growing partial to the "Short Hoods" in my old age. Last count on Short Hoods was 13 in possession.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWGive up the idea you will stick weld alum. It's not easy at all and generally is only useful if you need to weld thick alum. The results will simply be "ugly".As far as a machine, the Century you listed is fairly limited. The Lincoln AC225, Miller Tunderbolt or Hobart ( pretty much a clone of the Miller) are better machines. Dc would be nice to have, as most rods run smother on DC, but that will add to the cost some what.Note that a stick welder will be of limited use in car restoration. Most of what you will be capable of doing at your basic skill level will be sheet metal repairs. Stick is a poor choice for sheet metal however. Stick is better suited for heavier steel. You will find very few parts of a car heavy enough to be a good project for a stick welder, and those pieces are usually structural like trailer hitches, and your skill set is a very long ways away from doing structural welds on vehicle parts.Mig would be a better choice for thin sheet metal work. Also mig is a much better choice for alum. You will need to at least a 180 amp or better 230v mig to even think about alum. 180 amps will max out doing 1/8" alum. A 200 amp machine would be a better choice and give you up to 3/16" alum and more control on thinner alum. A 200 amp class mig can be turned down to do thin sheet metal, or turned up to do about 3/8" steel. The down side is you will be looking at a much higher price tag. New figure $800-1000, and then add maybe $200-300 for a spoolgun minimum to do alum.
Reply:Originally Posted by CosmicRamblerhttp://www.bing.com/shopping/lincoln...20dc&FORM=HURE
Reply:Originally Posted by EspritThe Lincoln Tombstone is what I've been thinking about purchasing.
Reply:If you go the mig route, it is faster than tig.  So if you have a lot of bead to lay, the mig is better and most people find it easier to learn.  But if you go the mig route and want to do aluminum, make sure the unit is "spool gun ready".  Otherwise you not only have to buy a spool gun, but you have to buy the controller gizmo for it.  Aluminum wire is softer and difficult to push from a mig, so the spool gun is used.
Reply:for auto restoration, I would go with at least a 180 amp mig welder... the Thermal Arc 181i or 211i would be just about perfect for automotive restoration..  180 amp being the least I would go..tackleexperts.comwww.necessityjigs.comhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/mach...dingequipment/
Reply:In my opinion I'd say go with a smaller mig I started with a millermatic 130. It's good for sheet metal and most repairs you'll find on an older car. As for the chassis I'd go with a good tig. My friend bought a dynasty 200 for his chromoly chassis.