Millermatic 211 and wire size vs metal size

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Hey guys. I'm very new to welding, only have probably 2 days of experience. I have a MM211 on 75/25 gas running .035 wire (schedule-40 project metal). I've ran more beads than I can count which seems to be a good way to start. Analyze the beads, make sure there is proper penetration, ect..When I weld I get a solid, shiny, hump type weld even when I weld with that cursive 'e'. Because of this I tend to weld like MIG (not trying to look like TIG). Sometimes however I want to try to play with getting fancy. So this weekend I go over to a friends house who's running a Lincoln 180 with 100% CO2 and .025 wire (schedule-40 project metal again), here are the results after my first try at a cursive 'e' on his machine:Does .025 wire cool faster allowing the bead trail to be able to mold initially then when the 'e' comes back over it remelts and forms the pretty look? I was blown away that I was able to do this. I have probably 10 welds back to back 6" or longer and all penetrating! I'm now thinking I want to switch to smaller wire for metals that are schedule-40!Thinking about this more and more. I think just playing with different metal sizes, wire size/type, makes a difference. I don't have very many options to play with and see what I like. I would definitely choose his setup if I wanted a less penetrating but fancier look over my bead with the MM211. I know for a fact the 211 is an amazing machine and is capable of making the same if not better welds. I just liked what his did in this particular case.MM211 w/Spoolmate 100
Reply:Bigger wire carry's more power, so it's better for thicker material.Miller has a chart that helps you get an idea what wire is right for what thickness materialhttp://www.millerwelds.com/resources...tips/MIG_tips/.Smaller wire allows you to weld a bit slower since you aren't laying down as much material at one time. That means if the chart suggests .023, .030 and .035 wire for a given thickness of material, .023 wire will give you a greater ability to adjust your wire speed to run a slower travel speed. Because you can run slower, it's often easier for newer welders to do "e"'s and other motions without laying down too much wire.That said, small wire will only carry so much energy. When you start welding thicker material, you need that extra power to penetrate into the base material well. Your welds with small wire might look pretty, but you probably will find running larger wire would give you more penetration because you can run higher voltage.I usually run .030 wire because I find it's a good compromise for a lot of what I need to run with mig. I can still do thin sheet metal, and also do thicker material if needed. That said, if I have a lot of thin sheet metal to do, I'll go ahead and load a spool of .023 wire, or if I have a lot of 1/4" to 3/8" I'll load the .035 wire..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Thank you, this is exactly what I needed to hear.  My welds with .035 are very strong, penetrate all of the way thru, but don't look as fancy (which to me is not a big deal).  I'll go grab a spool of .030, as the chart seems to show most of my metal thickness work right around .030 (and I already have .035).I also found it much easier to weld that metal thickness with smaller wire.  I felt like there was much more leeway. .030 should do the trick I'm thinking.  Thanks a bunch for your input!MM211 w/Spoolmate 100
Reply:Trying to be fancy with 2 days experience is gonna hinder your learning curve big time. You need to learn the basics first. For instance, would you learn to do figure 8 donuts in wal marts parking lot before you drove on the highway. A little at a time bud I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Originally Posted by weldermikeTrying to be fancy with 2 days experience is gonna hinder your learning curve big time. You need to learn the basics first. For instance, would you learn to do figure 8 donuts in wal marts parking lot before you drove on the highway. A little at a time bud
Reply:Originally Posted by weldermikeTrying to be fancy with 2 days experience is gonna hinder your learning curve big time. You need to learn the basics first. For instance, would you learn to do figure 8 donuts in wal marts parking lot before you drove on the highway. A little at a time bud
Reply:The only thing I don't like about the Lincoln table is that they do not have the Top with any overhang.Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:That's an easy fix tho. I'll just extend one side. I need to price the metal but I don't see it being very much. The miller table is super heavy duty but I don't need anything like that by any means!MM211 w/Spoolmate 100
Reply:I appreciate the heavy hitters posting up in here. Thanks guysMM211 w/Spoolmate 100
Reply:Originally Posted by wgr73That's an easy fix tho. I'll just extend one side. I need to price the metal but I don't see it being very much. The miller table is super heavy duty but I don't need anything like that by any means!
Reply:The Lincoln table plans are for a 'light-duty' table.Nothing wrong with that at all.For a light-duty table, if you are clamping near the edge, just clamp to the top surface on the top and to the frame underneath.  No biggie.If you want some overhang, just make the dimensions of the top plate/sheet bigger.  Or adjust the frame dimensions smaller (but then the entire table gets smaller and has a smaller footprint.  Might be good for you or it might not.)A table is pretty much a top, some legs, maybe a frame for the top, maybe a lower shelf and/or frame to collect dust, grit, and tools and to help tie the lower ends of the legs together.    The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWYou might want to extend more than one. You will find clamping things much easier if there isn't a chunk of tube or angle iron in the way.There have been tons of cart and table threads here. Many with very good ideas. Lots of guys opt to instal a 2" receiver under their table so the can quickly mount and dismount vices, grinders and other tools. Tables that fold, tables with slots or holes so you can clamp in the middle of the table. Tables with wheels, tables that raise and lower. Ones with cutting areas... the list goes on and on.You'll find carts with retractable cords, convenience outlets for grinders, drawers, hose and bottle racks, ones with big tires for "offroad" use, just to name a few. Sit back for a few hours and simply browse thru old threads and you'll find tons of ideas.
Reply:Originally Posted by wgr73I've seen most of the cart threads, but have yet to find a good table thread.  I'll keep looking!  I definitely want more ideas!
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWA few folding table designs to save space. Some are more than a little complex though.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=90021http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=84801http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=55244http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...740#post289740http://weldingweb.com/showpost.php?p...1&postcount=29http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=40704http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=53158A few showing how you can mount other things to your table and other ideas.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=108281http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=35195http://weldingweb.com/showpost.php?p...6&postcount=18http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=39787I know there have been a lot of other ones posted up in the past. These are just a few I've got saved on this computer.