Quick question - Need help with tapping a hole

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Ok, so I have been working on a new welding table for a while and I just messed up.  I was trying to tap some holes in 1/2" plate (the top) so I can attach it to the frame.  I was slowly twisting away and SNAP!!!!!   My tap broke off in my hole.  It pretty much broke off flush and I can get it out. Any suggestions????
Reply:Stick a nut over the top, weld it to the tap, and try to back it out.
Reply:thats the nice thing about lube. give what supe said. otherwise the drilling out and backing it out. or maybe taking a cutting wheel to the top and put a slit in and try backing it out with a screw driver.
Reply:tool trucks carry tap extractors, or you can use a torch to blow it out. the tap, being much harder than the mild top, will melt before the the table heats up too much. this works better on cast, which is where i have done it, but it should work on mild tooDynasty 200DXPassport plus w/ spoolmate 100victor 315c oxy/(act and prop)Miller digital elitemilwaukee power tools
Reply:first off what grade of tap is it ?  a well made tap vs a HF cheapie can be a bit different to get out the hf style are pretty brittle you maybe able to drill it and whack it out  if your hole goes all the way through  or heat it like already suggested350P 30A spool gun cut master 51  syncro 250 other stuff " take a dog off the street and make him prosper and he will not bite you sad the same cannot be said for man" i didnt use punctuation just to piss you off
Reply:A 1/2 inch hole is big enough to blow the tap out with a small cutting tip."The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." -Theodore Roosevelt
Reply:I was using lube while trying to tap the hole.  I will have to try the welding a nut to it idea because I do not have a torch to blow it out.  I was about to drill a hole in some flat stock and weld it kind of like the nut, but I haven't tried yet because I had to leave for a while.  It is an Irwin tap and die set.  Thanks for the help.
Reply:You can also take a small chisel or punch and break it up and (chip) turn it out. I doubt that you can turn it out by cutting a slot , maybe welding a nut, IDK. The cutters have bound up with metal on both sides this grabs and causes breakage. The other common cause is using a wrench instead of a tap handle which will pull it uneven and break it. I have extracted hundreds for my co workers and maybe a couple for me too. I have never had any luck with extractors. If you don't have a torch available, use my way and you will usually save the threads for the most part.
Reply:Originally Posted by springer 45Ok, so I have been working on a new welding table for a while and I just messed up.  I was trying to tap some holes in 1/2" plate (the top) so I can attach it to the frame.  I was slowly twisting away and SNAP!!!!!   My tap broke off in my hole.  It pretty much broke off flush and I can get it out. Any suggestions????
Reply:Dave's right it may be a good time to review your technique. Having said that who hasn't done it ? I've never  had success with an extractor either, often I need to resort to destroying the tip of tap left in ,, situation allowing.On a side note , a bit confused why you are tapping the top not the frame ? I could understand it if it was a clamping station , its 1/2" mmm not sure how windy it is up your way but I suspect it wont blow off??A good guess is better than a bad measurement
Reply:I got it out.  just drilled a hole in some flat stock and welded to the tap and it came right out.  and to answer your questions dave:1. 1/2"x132. 27/643. liquid wrench lubricating oil (similar to wd-40 i think) - im sure some will criticize4. used the tap handle that came with the dies - like a t-handle thingi was going until it started to bind and then backed it up to break the chips, about 1/4-1/2 turn at a timei appreciate the help, but i don't think i really need a lesson.  its not that hard of a process (even though i still muffed it up), i think i just got a little overzealous (lesson learned there) as i had already successfully tapped the other 3 holes.  anyways, problem solved and thanks for everyones help.  hopefully i will be able to finish my table today.Last edited by springer 45; 01-15-2011 at 05:27 PM.
Reply:i tapped into the top because if i tapped into the frame, i would have to leave a bolt head sticking out of the top of my table.  since i wanted a flat surface for the top, i figured this was best.  however, i am far from really having any sort of clue what i am doing, so my method might be way off...
Reply:I was thinking along the lines of a countersunk 1/2" set screwA good guess is better than a bad measurement
Reply:Originally Posted by springer 45I got it out.  just drilled a hole in some flat stock and welded to the tap and it came right out.  and to answer your questions dave:1. 1/2"x132. 27/643. liquid wrench lubricating oil (similar to wd-40 i think) - im sure some will criticize4. used the tap handle that came with the dies - like a t-handle thingi was going until it started to bind and then backed it up to break the chips, about 1/4-1/2 turn at a timei appreciate the help, but i don't think i really need a lesson.  its not that hard of a process (even though i still muffed it up), i think i just got a little overzealous (lesson learned there) as i had already successfully tapped the other 3 holes.  anyways, problem solved and thanks for everyones help.  hopefully i will be able to finish my table today.
Reply:ahh... didnt think of a counter sunk screw.  thanks for the help dave, i will keep that in mind next time.  i figured wd-40 wasn't preferred but i have read that its ok for light duty stuff and i kept plenty of it on there.  i very very rarely have to tap anything, but its all a learning process for me.thanks