vertical up stringers .. stick .. 7018 .. your settings?

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just wondering what your settings would be for aStick (7018) 1/8thvertical up stringer3/8 thick mild steel with 1/4 back plate , one square edge one beveled (CWB plate)just curious the settingsThanks in advance for any information
Reply:not sure how the back plate affects it...maybe 80-90  amps...
Reply:Hello then3wguy, unfortunately, I don't believe there is a simple answer to your question. I only put it that way because of not knowing the type of machine that you are using, whether you have a calibrated meter to set the amps by, and other variables that could come into play.      Here's my example: we have a Miller 8-pak in our school shop(amongst many other types of power sources) and it is hooked up to 208V 3-phase input power, to make the type of weld that you have inquired about I would probably ball-park the amperage at around 110 to 115 amps. On the other hand, I could move that same machine over to some of the industrial property right down the road and power it up with 575V 3-phase input power and experience the same heat at the stinger with the machine set to 65 to 75 amps. I believe you get the idea here and I am not trying to be a smart*ss. I might suggest that you look to how the puddle is behaving to fine-tune your machine amperage setting. Generally, when a bead is "cold" it won't have sufficient energy to spread and attain the proper profile and will likely stack outward and tend to be narrow, the toes of the bead won't wet-in and make a smooth transition to the base metal, there will likely not be much undercut on it's edges in this case. If it's too "hot" it might still be narrow, yet it will also likely exhibit undercut on both of it's edges and might possibly "fall out" and run back down over the bead underneath it. It might also be hard to advance upwards without burning a trench that can't be readily filled. With the heat about right you should be able to get the bead to progress upwards without exhibiting a lot of undercut on it's edges and you should also be able to maintain an even, convex bead profile. In many cases, the way that the slag come off of a finished bead can also give you an indicator as to proper amperage setting, however, grooves can be difficult to clean slag from even when the settings are correct so this isn't always the best way to judge. With all of the various types, ages, conditions, and other variables related to welding power sources it is very difficult to nail down specific parameters for making specific welds. Using calibrated equipment and taking into account a few other considerations it can certainly be much easier, yet, I believe you will still need to observe, analyze, utilize non-destructive and destructive testing to come up with the types of specifics you are looking for. Best of luck to you and best regards, Allanaevald
Reply:I ran uphill right at 117-118 amps powered by 460 volts with a Lincoln V350 Pro burning 1/8" 7018. The same output works from a 220 volt powered XMT 304. By the time you start burning rod from a thirty year old transformer machine that has a big, sluggish dial, then it becomes a matter of running what works best. Those machines don't have digital readouts, but they usually burn very smooth. City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:Originally Posted by weldbeadmaybe 80-90  amps...
Reply:I'd be using somewhere around 110-120 amps for 1/8 7018.I use 80-90 amps for 3/32 7018.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Thanks for all the comments .. very much appreciatedi havn't practice to many SMAW vertical stringers .. but the first part of my weld looked great but as it was happening ... i was thinking it might have been to hot because i seen slag drooping behind. (something i'll have to get used to over practice)but as i went .. i think my angle may have changed and become to great or steep because .. then weld looked like "stack outward and tend to be narrow," and as the rod was burning, instead of seeing just the puddle .. i could see the rod melt off (into the puddle) in drops (guessing to see this my angle may have been to great)Just gonna have to practice moreThanks again for the comments
Reply:Originally Posted by then3wguy i could see the rod melt off (into the puddle) in drops
Reply:Originally Posted by snoeproeI'd be using somewhere around 110-120 amps for 1/8 7018.I use 80-90 amps for 3/32 7018.
Reply:as you go up you gotta raise  up to keep the angle constant..dont just use yer wrist..
Reply:its best if you can find a setting that works for you in all positions, that way if your in a situation where you are far from your machine , youre not running back and fourth.And of course if you know you are going to be welding flat you can turn it up a little higher just to go faster.For 7018 1/8 i like right about 120, and if i know im welding flat about 150
Reply:I ran all my CWB plates at 120 amps and it worked out fine.  Will this be x rayed or bend test ?
Reply:I run 1/8 7018 right around 130. I use the same setting in all positions.The difference between art and craft is the quality of the workmanship. I am an artist.