Samurai roll cage

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here is my latest project.  The factory "roll bar" was not actually intended for rolling over.  I decided if i wanted my family to ride in it that I would make it safe.  Here is a few pictures to see what you guys think.  Some of the pics were on my phone, so it looks like it's really dusty in the shop.  It is not complete, there will be a similar "halo" around the rear seat also. Attached ImagesThere is no failure...only feedback
Reply:one more pic, this is kinda nice because you can see how the tube goes under the front seats to minimize interference with the back seat passengers. Attached ImagesThere is no failure...only feedback
Reply:cool, good job
Reply:looking good, keep it up, excelent job!
Reply:Looks good, I've been thinking about a samurai to play around with.Hopefully adding plenty of padding is on the "to do" list. Wouldn't want exposed steel tubing that close to my head in an accident.
Reply:Originally Posted by backspaceLooks good, I've been thinking about a samurai to play around with.Hopefully adding plenty of padding is on the "to do" list. Wouldn't want exposed steel tubing that close to my head in an accident.
Reply:I can tell you from experience that the factory roll bar holds up pretty good in a roll over!
Reply:you should check out zookpower.ca if you a suzuki owner lots of cool info there
Reply:It's funny.  In the track car world, where helmets are always worn, guys go a little crazy when you talk about street driving with a fully-caged car -- the concern is about low-speed impacts and what the steel will do to your un-helmeted head.  In the off-roading world, there's far less concern about exposed tubing.  And you don't see too many helmets used, even when you're out crawling around on rocks.My 1983 Jeep left the factory with padding that's somewhere between a nerf ball and a foam seat cushion.  It keeps you from hurting yourself when you're crawling around inside the Jeep, but it would be useless for protecting your head in even a low-speed impact out in normal driving.  I keep meaning to replace mine with the sort of padding I have in my road/track car, which is high-density stuff that's SFI-approved and won't melt in a fire.  It isn't soft enough to make an entry/exit bump any less annoying, but it will ansorb siginificantly more energy if I get sideswiped at an intersection, and my unprotected head gets shoved into the bar.The SFI stuff isn't cheap at $5 a foot, but if you extend a line out about 18" from your head, you'll see all the places you're likely to hit in even a low-speed crash.  On the Samurai cage, the driver's head is vulnerable to the main hoop, the diagonal behind his head, the upright along the A pillar and the roofline connector between the A and B pillar.  I can't point any fingers, because I haven't done it with my own Jeep.  But the safe advice would be to pad all of them -- and not with the nerf bar stuff.Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:I do know people that have rolled these and survived with the factory roll bar.  But I wanted something that will cover the back seats too, and the factory bar was mounted to sheet metal, so it can't be that good.thanks for the info on the padding, I definitely don't want anything to melt or burn in a fire.There is no failure...only feedback
Reply:It's a strong looking cage, by the way.If you want to save a little money on the high-density padding, I/O Port Racing has what they claim is the same stuff, only without the SFI sticker -- and without the cost added that comes with getting SFI approval.  They claim it's made of the same flame-resistant material as the stuff they sell with the SFI sticker.Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:we got a bit more work done today.  the rear cage tie in is done inside the bodywork, there is a tube running inside the rear panel and attaches to the frame by the tube that is sticking out the side.  The top is a two piece clamp from ballistic fabrication, I am not crazy about the fit, finish, the design of these clamps, or the customer service of ballistic, so anyone looking into them, try poly performance first. Attached ImagesThere is no failure...only feedback
Reply:Looks like a lot of fun, both the building and the use.  What kind of tubing bender do you have and how do you like it?As for the back seat passengers, I would be a little concerned about them chipping a tooth in case of a frontal impact.  I  had a 54 Willys CJ3b and had a 6-pt roll cage built around it (I don't have a tubing bender), but no cross-bracing.  Made it so I could make a custom vinyl top using the rollcage as a framework.  Since it was used for non-competetive rock crawling and general low-speed fun, crossbracing wasn't deemed necessary.  It was built by a shop that DOES rock crawl competetively, and they were satisfied that it was more than sufficient.  Looks like your cage could withstand some pretty heavy abuse!TonyMiller Maxtron 300Miller Spoolmatic 3Victor Journeyman II"Twern't my ignorance done me in, but what I knowed that wasn't so."  Uncle Tom's Cabin
Reply:I am actually not building it for rock crawling, but I do want it strong enough to take any kind of impact since it is a daily driver in the summer time.  I felt so tiny looking up at most vehicles in this thing, that I just didn't feel safe having my daughter in there without doing a full roll cage.  I agree, if there is a front impact, those cross bars will at best leave you with a nasty headache.I actually do not have a tubing bender, we are doing all the tube work at a friends shop: Adamik offroad in Tebbets, MO.  He uses a JD2 from pro tools.  He has it setup with electric hydraulic, according to Bob, this bends much faster than the previous air/hydraulic setup.  This is my first time doing any tube work, but it seems to work really nice.  The only thing about using the horizontal style, is that you need lots of clearance around it when the tube swings.  We are almost always moving things around in the shop when bending a long piece.There is no failure...only feedback
Reply:I have been considering a JD-2 mechanical bender.  I do so little of that stuff anymore that a hydraulic just wouldn't make sense, unless it was one of those barrel jack units.  I have used one of those and wasn't impressed at the quality of the dies or the quality of the bends.  It was difficult to get accurate bends.  Now that I have a decent welder I have been thinking about getting back into it.I have seen some pretty awesome Suzuki Samurai rock crawlers in my time.  Used to live in Farmington, NM, where they have some of the bigger competitive events.  I have thought about buying one myself.Again.  Nice job.TonyMiller Maxtron 300Miller Spoolmatic 3Victor Journeyman II"Twern't my ignorance done me in, but what I knowed that wasn't so."  Uncle Tom's Cabin
Reply:Very nice.Looks plenty strongDave ReberWadsworth Ohio
Reply:thanks for the compliments....much appreciatedThere is no failure...only feedback
Reply:I'm sure you planned on it but pad the hell out of it.Dave ReberWadsworth Ohio
Reply:yeah, i plan on doing the self adhesive padding from I/O racing Attached ImagesThere is no failure...only feedback
Reply:a couple update pics.  This is really eating up time to get everything lined up.  The 2nd pic is the first complicated notch that I've done start to finish, and I'm pretty happy with it, any feedback?  What kind of tricks are people using to hold things in place while lining up or marking on the work piece? Attached ImagesLast edited by AaronL; 01-28-2010 at 07:26 PM.There is no failure...only feedback
Reply:The JD2 model 3 is a manual bender and can be converted to hydraulic.The JD2 model 4 is hydraulic. It can be purchased with air/hydraulic or electric hydraulic. If you know what you are doing, you can switch back and forth between power sources if needed. The unit came with a QD. (quick disconnect).I have the model 4 air/hyd. and I can tell you it does a decent job. But the setup is a pain if you do a lot of bending.The Baleigh setup is way better. The difference being that the tubing is "caged" in on the JD2. The tubing is just clamped on the Baileigh unit. I don't know the words that describe these setups. And I am sure there is a term for both. Help?Lincoln Power Mig 210MP MIGLincoln Power Mig 350MP - MIG and Push-PullLincoln TIG 300-300Lincoln Hobby-Weld 110v  Thanks JLAMESCK TIG TORCH, gas diffuser, pyrex cupThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 101My brain
Reply:Originally Posted by Jack OlsenIt's a strong looking cage, by the way.If you want to save a little money on the high-density padding, I/O Port Racing has what they claim is the same stuff, only without the SFI sticker -- and without the cost added that comes with getting SFI approval.  They claim it's made of the same flame-resistant material as the stuff they sell with the SFI sticker.
Reply:Originally Posted by AaronLa couple update pics.  This is really eating up time to get everything lined up.  The 2nd pic is the first complicated notch that I've done start to finish, and I'm pretty happy with it, any feedback?  What kind of tricks are people using to hold things in place while lining up or marking on the work piece?
Reply:I understand wanting cj7 axles, but if you have a good bone yard near you, look into the toyotas and land crusiers. Alot of them came with factory diff locks. That can save you alot of money and increase your mobility in the long run. Way more axle than that sammy would need too.
Reply:cage is looking very sturdy! I also think the foam is a great idea. Your head hitting a bare tube in an accident can be very bad. also I am not sure if you plan on running seat harness in it or not but your cross bar might be to low as it is to mount belts directly to. you may need to add another bar for the belts to make sure they dont pull down on your shoulders in a wreck. Just something to be aware of. keep up the good work!Originally Posted by gimpyrobbI understand wanting cj7 axles, but if you have a good bone yard near you, look into the toyotas and land crusiers. Alot of them came with factory diff locks. That can save you alot of money and increase your mobility in the long run. Way more axle than that sammy would need too.
Reply:Score!
Reply:toyota mini truck axles from the early 90's is the most common swap and easiest to find upgraded parts for...that's what I ran on mine with 36's and I beat the snot out of them and only broke one birf the whole time...
Reply:man that thing awesome....I like the rear bumper.  I'm going to fab up front and rears for mine, going with 6X2 rec. tubing in back, not sure about front yet.There is no failure...only feedback
Reply:trailtough rear bumper, I already had it for another project, it was easier to tie the rear exo into that than rebuild another one, plus it already had the mount for the swingaway tire carrier...but I'm too poor to be able to afford another 36" for a spare anyway...zuks are awesome....low budget and then some
Reply:The zuki will be coming back to my shop to finish up the cage.  All the bending is done.  Basically there is cleanup work to do, and select a finish for the cage; paint, powder coat, or spray on rubberizing.  There will also be a angle tube from the top of the b-pillar to the back bottom corner of the cage, but it will be removable for easy entrance/exit. Attached ImagesThere is no failure...only feedback
Reply:for anyone who might be interested, I have a few update pics....finally.  I haven't had much time to work on it the past few months, but the roll cage is finally completed just waiting for a couple coats of satin black. Attached ImagesThere is no failure...only feedback
Reply:Looks like a nice, sturdy roll cage.  Maybe even overkill for a vehicle that light.  I was looking at the cross braces behind the front seats.  Looks like they might interfere with a helmet, or at least become a nuisance by restricting head movement with a helmet on while crawling at odd angles, particularly downhill.  Also, I imagine the back seat is going to go away.  Those cross braces would make a pretty obvious dent in a rear passenger's forehead in a frontal impact.  Having said that, however, I can't see any other way to do it, other than what you did.  I had an old Willys CJ-3B on which I put a 6-point cage.  I left out the upper cross-braces for the above reasons.  Nice job.TonyMiller Maxtron 300Miller Spoolmatic 3Victor Journeyman II"Twern't my ignorance done me in, but what I knowed that wasn't so."  Uncle Tom's Cabin
Reply:I don't know if it's been mentioned before, but inexpensive padding can be had by using neoprene pipe insulation.  You mentioned that you've already decided, so maybe this info can help someone else.Great looking work, I hope you never need it.Fegenbush
Reply:I had three guys sit in this vehicle before deciding what to do, there was actually a guy who is 6'4" and probably 300lbs who sat in the back seat and sat comfortably.  With me back there, as long as I had my seat belt on, there will be no issues.  I actually moved the rear seat back 5".  All you have to do is rotate the rear bracket 180* and drill two new holes.I will be using padding where I see fit, trust me, by now I know for sure how hard that tubing is.and yes, it is overkillThanks for the comments.  AaronThere is no failure...only feedback
Reply:looks good, can you still get the full top on? that was a detail I didn't factor in with my cage..so I got a little chilly in the winter
Reply:Originally Posted by bcrewcaptainlooks good, can you still get the full top on? that was a detail I didn't factor in with my cage..so I got a little chilly in the winter
Reply:We've been making a bit more progress. I'm getting close to being able to drive it again. Attached ImagesThere is no failure...only feedback
Reply:Wow it looks better than new with the satin finish and that roll cage is really nice looking.
Reply:Originally Posted by Big65moparWow it looks better than new with the satin finish and that roll cage is really nice looking.
Reply:That looks great, nice work.What are your plans for the Zuk?
Reply:sqnby- thanks.  I know a few people with trails on their property, some pretty knarly ones.  As of now, i'm going to build a lift for it, get a top made for it, and see where it goes from there.  I really like driving the little thing, so I don't want to tear it up too bad.There is no failure...only feedback
Reply:keep it small...it's more fun embarrassing people in 20K jeeps with your nearly stock 'zuk...most fun I ever had was the 'zuk with 31's and a rear locker...you can fit on a 4wheeler trail and pass everyone..
Reply:I've heard about people having these huge modified zuki's and buying a stocker cause they're more fun.  I've got 28 inch tires right now, i will probably keep them till they wear out, then go to a 31.  I believe they recommend 4-5 inches of lift for a 31" tire.  A locker would be great too.  I love that the zuki's are the same size a rhino but street legal.There is no failure...only feedback
Reply:the one I had on 36's was ok, it was sold and a $500 stocker on 29's replaced it.That stocker with a rear mini-spool beat several 40K+ buggies thru a course in the woods since it could go between the trees
Reply:I love how small these things are, I can't wait to get it on the trails.  For now here is a couple updates, building a rear bumper for it.  The material was given to me by a friend, though not exactly what I wanted it worked OK. Attached ImagesLast edited by AaronL; 08-19-2010 at 03:22 PM.There is no failure...only feedback
Reply:So dumb question for you roll cage gurus, why would you want to have the tubes tie into the b pillar above the top of the tube? what is the reasoning there?"...My pappy was a pistol I'm a son of a gun...""...God is great, beer is good, and people are crazy..."
Reply:There is no structural reason, in fact it's probably weaker doing that.  The reason was to keep the front hoop up as high as possible for head room when you enter and exit the vehicle.  Plus we thought it looked cool, but it made all the coping a PITA.There is no failure...only feedback
Reply:That bumper is gorgeousMiller Dynasty 300 DXMiller CST280Miller Maxstar 150 STH
Reply:I thought you guys might like an update on the zuki.  I drove it a few times this summer, and had a few ground clearance issues when offroad, so I decided to go big.  This time I'm doing it correct, toyota axles w/ disc brake conversion on rear, power steering, 33" tires, 8K# winch with new bumper to match the rear.  Total lift is around 12". Here are a couple pics. Attached ImagesThere is no failure...only feedback