IS THERE A GOOD WORKING 115volt MIG OUT THERE?

admin

Before I make another bad investment, please voice your opinions on what, if any, 115volt mig welders really are able to weld 1/8" - 3/16"  mild steel in a single pass with great penetration. I made the mistake of buying a piece of sh*t brand before that was useless. I forget the brand name, but it was a 130amp brand that Snap-On was selling at one time. It was totally inadequate. Some people say that Hobart makes the best 115volt migs, and that Lincoln Welders are inferior and over-priced to the Hobart. Miller is a tad expensive also, unless you guys know where to get one cheap. Any ideas?
Reply:You get what you pay for.  I do not own a dedicated 110v machine but, I do have a MMDVI that can be used on 110v.  If the miller MM140 welds anything like my DVI does on 110v, I would be quite happy with it.
Reply:I have a hobart handler 140. I run .023 wire, and 25/75 mig mix, and the thickest Ive welded with it is 1/8" mild steel on the highest setting. It does a really good job of it. I dont doubt that it will do 3/16", but a bigger wire might be in order at that point.Miller Syncrowave 200Hobart Handler 140Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38E-Z Tube BenderPlasma Cam DHC2
Reply:Thanks guys!  Qucifer, that's the machine I have my eyes on at this point. Thanks for reaffirming it for me that it's a good choice. I understand that you get what you pay for, and I'm not a tight-wad... but spending around $425.00 for the Hobart makes much more sense than paying around $725.00 for the Miller. The Miller can't outperform $300.00/worth over the Hobart I'm sure.
Reply:I bought an SP 100 for $850 when they first came out.  Still got it, Still use it.  LOTS of 10 lb spools have gone trough it.  Had it 20 years.  Can ya beat that?DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:i used a buddy's Lincoln Sp 135 for awhile with flux core before i bought a welder it was a good lil machine i think it all comes down to the grade of parts they use in the machine ive seen quit a few of the Hobart's around but never used one 350P 30A spool gun cut master 51  syncro 250 other stuff " take a dog off the street and make him prosper and he will not bite you sad the same cannot be said for man" i didnt use punctuation just to piss you off
Reply:Lincoln SP 135 is a GREAT machine.  I welded up to 1/4" material with that in one pass with .030/.035 innershield with a 1/16" open root and 3/16" no bevel closed root without a problem although the machine was MAXED out and duty cycle would kick on after about 12" of continuous weld and would need several minutes to cool down.  Ran that thing all day long on 16g steel without any problems.Last edited by WelderBoy; 08-19-2007 at 07:08 PM.
Reply:I'll have to take another look at the Lincoln products too!  Thanks!
Reply:I have a MM135, .023, CO2... not sure of what it'll weld in one pass, but gets lots of use from either the generator or plugged into the wall.  No complaints here with it
Reply:I have an old miller. Its been a great machine and has welder a lot over the 15 years or so I have had it. I have tried the licolns as well and thought they worked pretty good. I myself for what its worth would get the miller MM140. I have had to good of luck with the millers and had to many problems with the lincolns, but that just my luck though. I will say I have a older lincoln SP100 pro at work and its a kick a$$ machine and would use it over any lincoln SP135 newer model.Miller DVI2Lincoln Precision Tig 225Thermodynamics Cutmaster 38Everything else needed.
Reply:1/8 inch steel, single pass?  Yeah, the 115/120V machines can do it.  But you are usually talking FCAW and you will be -near- the machine's max capacity for single-pass and the duty cycle will be kicking in pretty quickly.Those class machines can do a little thicker, but not a whole lot.  And there you are going to be doing multi-pass, and still running into the duty-cycle limits.  FCAW will get you better thickness capacity than GMAW.Note that I'm not saying you can't GMAW 1/8 inch steel with the little 115V machines, just that you are stretching the machine's capabilities a little.  Those thicknesses are sort of near the upper-end of the capabilities of the 115V machines, and you might want to consider stepping up to the 240V machines (the 175/180/187 class machines).  The SP175, PM180, HH187, MM180, etc, etc.I've blow-thru 1/8 steel with a Lincoln 115V machine and 0.035 FCAW when the joint fit was a little 'loose', so the machine has enough ooomph for that.  But I liked the final weld better on 1/8 inch butt welds when I ran a pass on both sides, this way I had nicely convex beads top and bottom.  On 1/8 inch lap welds, the top edge melted in nicely and the puddle fused into the bottom piece OK as well.  All 0.035 Innershield FCAW wire.
Reply:One of Lincoln's flux-core machines sounds like what you are looking for.I have the Weld-Pak 100, and it works great for the sizes you mentioned.If you don't need a gas welder, then don't mess with it, just go FCAW.KRS***************************************Lincoln AC225 stick welderLincoln HD100 WeldPak flux core wire feed welderThree of the cheapest grinders money can buy
Reply:I'd love to hear more on the weld-pak 100 review.Anyone else has it and is satisfied/not satisfied with it?
Reply:Originally Posted by Triple-BeastBefore I make another bad investment, please voice your opinions on what, if any, 115volt mig welders really are able to weld 1/8" - 3/16"  mild steel in a single pass with great penetration. I made the mistake of buying a piece of sh*t brand before that was useless. I forget the brand name, but it was a 130amp brand that Snap-On was selling at one time. It was totally inadequate. Some people say that Hobart makes the best 115volt migs, and that Lincoln Welders are inferior and over-priced to the Hobart. Miller is a tad expensive also, unless you guys know where to get one cheap. Any ideas?
Reply:About 10 years ago I bought a Miller goldstar 130 amp from Northern and it has served me well.  I agree with the others about the fluxcore but I also like using co2 on gmaw.  I never have had it cut off by over doing the duty cycle but when fabricating there is a lot of stop and go.  No problems with 3/16.I would recommend not getting anything less than 130 amps.
Reply:so for those smaller 110/115v machines, it's better to use straight co2 instead of an 70/20 argon/co2 mix?Sorry for the noob question.
Reply:I would agree the Lincoln 135 is the best I've used it was light and trouble free.  I bought a couple of Thermal Arc machines and find they are cheaper but very heavy.  Check out my own revue: http://www.aaronstechserv.com/welding1.htmThe next one will probably another linclon.
Reply:Originally Posted by TeckniXso for those smaller 110/115v machines, it's better to use straight co2 instead of an 70/20 argon/co2 mix?Sorry for the noob question.
Reply:Thanks guys!To the ones who replied that I should get a 220volt machine...duh!That's a no-brainer!Nobody would buy a 115volt machine if they had 220volt current readily available... and that's the problem.
Reply:Their is a Lincoln vs Miller 115 volt mig welder comparision pdf floating around this forum was very interesting to see improvements Lincoln has made in their migs.
Reply:My Passport does pretty darn good on 110 volt power.  The Passport is a very efficient inverter power supply and puts out more amps on 110 volts than any other 110v mig that I'm aware of.   The machine is not cheap, but it's well worth it if you want alot of mig ouput on 110 volts.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:The HH140 will do what you said you would like in a 115 volt welder. I have one and use it all the time with .30 flux .35 flux wire on 1/8 to 1/4, it has been a very nice welder for what I use it for. I have MM211 that I use with gas only. I had a 115 volt welder for over 10 years and I am very happy with the results.
Reply:Originally Posted by Triple-BeastThanks guys!To the ones who replied that I should get a 220volt machine...duh!That's a no-brainer!Nobody would buy a 115volt machine if they had 220volt current readily available... and that's the problem.
Reply:Psst.. The original thread date was '07.  .No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWPsst.. The original thread date was '07.Yeah I noticed pistolnoon dredged up 2 from '07 this morning. This one and another.I can understand someone digging up old threads to ask questions about how something was done while searching for an answer, but the generic comments always baffel me..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:HaHa, I didn't even notice the date!MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Originally Posted by Triple-BeastBefore I make another bad investment, please voice your opinions on what, if any, 115volt mig welders really are able to weld 1/8" - 3/16"  mild steel in a single pass with great penetration. I made the mistake of buying a piece of sh*t brand before that was useless. I forget the brand name, but it was a 130amp brand that Snap-On was selling at one time. It was totally inadequate. Some people say that Hobart makes the best 115volt migs, and that Lincoln Welders are inferior and over-priced to the Hobart. Miller is a tad expensive also, unless you guys know where to get one cheap. Any ideas?
Reply:Originally Posted by JohnnyWelderLincoln Welders are inferior? Maybe if you get one from lowes or home depot, but go to the Lincoln Electric, or to your local welding shop where they have the real Lincoln Machines and pick up a 140cIt does .035 as opposed to Miller's 0.45Lincolns comparative to Miller is always giving you more amps for your buck.Both are good, but I wouldnt call Lincoln, "inferior"
Reply:It's the Dynasty 700. Every one should have one.
Reply:Originally Posted by Grimm1It's the Dynasty 700. Every one should have one.
Reply:There is something you might want to consider - operating a 230 volt welder off of two separate 115 volt circuits.You can do this using a home-made jumper cable assembly as shown in the attached figure.  Before you plug in the jumper, you must make certain that your two 115 volt circuits are on opposite sides of the junction box - e.g. measure between the black wires of circuit 1 and 2 to be certain you have 230 volts and not 115 volts.  Don't let apparent lack of 230 VAC limit you to a 115 VAC welder. Check your available 115 VAC outlets.This approach will let you run a 230 volt welder from a couple of different 115 VAC outlets.I do this all the time - and it works just great. Rick V Attached Images
Reply:e.g. measure between the black wires of circuit 1 and 2 to be certain you have 230 volts and not 115 volts
Reply:Originally Posted by Rick VThere is something you might want to consider - operating a 230 volt welder off of two separate 115 volt circuits.You can do this using a home-made jumper cable assembly as shown in the attached figure.  Before you plug in the jumper, you must make certain that your two 115 volt circuits are on opposite sides of the junction box - e.g. measure between the black wires of circuit 1 and 2 to be certain you have 230 volts and not 115 volts.  Don't let apparent lack of 230 VAC limit you to a 115 VAC welder. Check your available 115 VAC outlets.This approach will let you run a 230 volt welder from a couple of different 115 VAC outlets.I do this all the time - and it works just great. Rick V
Reply:Thats really clever Rick V! I'm going to have to make one of those jumper cables. But I have to ask, are the amps limited to what a regular 115v circuit can carry? If you're plugging into two 20 amp circuits, you're limited to a 20 amp draw, right?
Reply:Note,Although Rick's work-around regarding 230V power sort of works, it is NOT all that safe and is NOT 'legal' to do.A big safety no-no is that by jury-rigging the two separate circuits you still have two separate circuits.  If/when one of the 115 volt breakers trips, there is a good chance that the other breaker will not trip and thus the machine/wires will still have voltage.  That and applying only 115V to a machine needing 230V is not so good for the machine.  Maybe not so instantly bad as applying 240V to a machine expecting 120V, but still in the Not-Good category.A 240V (or 230V, same thing in this case) circuit has the two 'halves' of the two-pole circuit breaker mechanically connected so that if one pole/leg/half of the circuit trips then BOTH poles/legs/halves trip and the entire circuit then is shut off with no voltage on it.And yes, I have seen the floor refinishing guys take their 240V sander and run the sorry-a$$ cord that was patched with a bunch of duct tape right to the circuit panel and clip right to the incoming mains.  No circuit breaker protection at all.    That is wrong on sooooo many levels.  Wrong and scary and stupid and dangerous.  And Grimm, yes the breakers involved determine how many amps you can get out of the circuit.  If you tap into two 15amp circuits, you can get 15amps.Also Rick's 'workaround' won't work on a GFCI protected circuit, since the hot leg current on either 115V 'branch' will not be returned through the neutral and thus the GFCI(s) interpret that as the current must have gone through the ground instead of the neutral.  And yes, this is an old thread.  If you have an electric clothes dryer, then you usually have a safe and 'real' 240V circuit available.If you have an electric stove/oven, then you have a safe and 'real' 240V circuit available, but often not quite as accessible as a dryer outlet.Just get or put a 240V circuit in.  Or connect to an existing 240V circuit.  Skip the jury-rigging.  IMO.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Don't forget ground. - Jonesg
Reply:Ummm, Rick,Do NOT use a piece of NM (aka Romex) for a cord!  NM/Romex is "cable".  Cable is made to be certain specs for certain operating conditions.  It is NOT made to bend or flex.  It is supposed to be protected from physical movement or stress, usually by being inside of a wall or in conduit and fastened in place.  The insulation  and sheathing and overall construction of Romex are not made for use as an extension cord or extension cord-like device.Cord is made to be used 'out in the open'.  Use a chunk of that to make an extension cord, not a piece of Romex.And yes, when one of the two independent breakers trips on your jury-rigged setup, you no longer have 240V to the machine or wires.  But that other LIVE wire from the still untripped breaker is still live at 120V to ground.  Thus the machine is still 'live' but no longer functioning.  And depending on the internal circuitry/wiring of the device, it may or may not have various parts still energized.Dryer in the way?  Just unplug it and plug in a 240V extension cord with the appropriate receptacle and plug.Stoves usually are more of a hassle, thus my mention of "not quite as accessible" above.Oh, and don't even THINK of doing such a work-around in a commercial/industrial situation.    Major safety related fines for doing THAT.Work safely.  Electricity doesn't care, therefore YOU have to be careful.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Would it be possible to wire a breaker right into that adapter to make it safer? My dad has projects he wants me to do that would require my bigger welder, but he doesn't have any 230v plugs in his house. all his apliances are gas. Had the same problem at a friends house. No 230v. Wound up using my OA set up. Would rather risk getting zapped than putting my back out or dropping bottles as I lug them up and down stairs.
Reply:Originally Posted by Grimm1Would it be possible to wire a breaker right into that adapter to make it safer? My dad has projects he wants me to do that would require my bigger welder, but he doesn't have any 230v plugs in his house. all his apliances are gas. Had the same problem at a friends house. No 230v. Wound up using my OA set up. Would rather risk getting zapped than putting my back out or dropping bottles as I lug them up and down stairs.
Reply:I just plug into the Bobcat when I need 220v power on-site.   MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:old thread.........but the answer is yes!  alot of quailty 110V mig will weld 1/8"-3/16" in a single pass with full penetration.  if you need a bit more penetration (for 1/4"), switch it up to flux core.  I know from experience that the Hobart Hanlder 140 will easily do 3/16" in a single pass.
Reply:Would it be possible to wire a breaker right into that adapter to make it safer? - Grimm1