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Aluminum Alloy Diffrences ?

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发表于 2021-8-31 23:40:34 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
I am starting to Tig weld aluminum, just running beads. There is a pretty big learning curve and there’s allot going on. I have noticed that some of the pieces of scrap I have been using are easier (more predictable puddle behavior) to weld they also look better after running a bead. I am using 4043 1/16 filler rod. The alloys are unknown.QuestionWhat alloys are the most common and which ones are the most predictable. As far as puddle control and ascetics of the weld?I understand the 2000 ? series aluminum are not weld able, any tips would help. Any way to identify alloy like the spark test on steel.Mountain MetalDynasty 200DXCoolmate 1Miller Trailblazer 302 W/ KohlerMiller Suitcase 12VS Wire feederWeldcraft 26 TIG TorchMiller 210 Spoolmate 3035Thermal Dynamics 51 PlasmaVictor O/AJet  7x12 L Cooled Band SawDelta Drill Press
Reply:No ways to identify alloys that I know of that do not require high dollar equipment.  I believe that every alloy can be welded with certain processes but normally the ones you find in fabrication are 3xxx, 4xxx, 5xxx and 6xxx series.  All are pretty similar as far as puddle fluidity and weldabllity goes though 4xxx might be slightly more fluid due to the fact that the major alloying element is Si.  5xxx generally offers better corrosion resistance, and 6xxx can be heat treated to get a variety of different characteristics.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:Hello Mountain Metal, if you go to www.alcotec.com you should be able to navigate to a part of their site that discusses and gives information on a vast variety of available aluminum alloys and also provides some information on their specific uses as well as strengths and other metallurgical information. The 2000 series and 7000 series alloys are generally considered un-weldable due to some of alloying elements in them, they are generally used for machined parts, a lot of billet parts used in the aerospace industry are made from these alloys. As far as identification goes: spectrometric identification with a material sciences lab is one way(yes very expensive in the whole scheme of things), I believe there is also a hand-held type of unit, not familiar with it's particular technology(once again, expensive). Occasionally, materials will be stamped with identifying numbers that can still be made out, or you might have access to the drawings/prints that the parts were made from which would indicate material type and grade. If it isn't marked, you are somewhat at the mercy of chance without the use of some of the methods that I mentioned above. Do a bit of reading on the Alcotech site and I believe you will come to a much better understanding of the many variables that apply to work with and welding aluminum alloys. A bit for your consideration, best regards, Allanaevald
Reply:As said in some cases it's marked on the piece. I lucked out recently. I needed a chunk of alum to fix an alum pump bracket. Digging thru my misc scraps, I found a length of 6' 1"x3/4" that would be perfect after a bit of cleaning and mill work that I picked up some where years and years ago. Luckily The cut off still had the alloy numbers in blue ink on the chunk. It was a 2XXX series so I passed on that piece for what I needed to do since I had to weld it to the original.When I get scrap I always try and ask what alloy it is. I nabbed some scrap alum diamond plate cut offs a few years back from a place that was doing shearing. All 6063 IIRC when I asked about buying the scraps for tig practice. I took a sharpie and marked that on the backs of the larger pieces I planned to save long term. I also try to do this with any SS scrap I have left over. 3-4 years down the road that 316SS 1/4 x 2" 4' piece can look like almost any newish piece of steel if you aren't careful..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Hello DSW, great points and also a great practice. I have worked in job shops before where the guys were lax in marking rems., alot of the time they would have to toss some of those pieces in the scrap because it wasn't worth trying to chase down their exact alloys. Good points for all to consider, thanks and regards, Allanaevald
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