Welding table top/plate - need advice

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I bought a 2m*1m, 8mm thick plate for the "future" welding table.It is now laying on a metal bed frame - 2 long lumbers lengthwiseand a lot of thinner ones across those.When I go over it with a 1.8m level, I see that at the edges, the plate showsa "bend" 1mm-2mm or so starting a few cm from the edges(at least thatis what is noticeable - light/gap under the level). On one end there is also a bend further from the edges. I would like the "future" table to be flat enoughto trust it  when clamping- what should I do - chop off some centimeters all around as well asthe part which has more of a "bend" with a plasmaor will it flatten out ok when it isbolted to the frame (I'm presuming ahead of time that I can make theframe top flat enough  ) ?Also, I was considering cutting slots in the table top(across the width like the Stronghand Nomad) - or is it betterto cut the top into reasonably wide strips ?
Reply:thin metal will always warp and bend.the best way if you can afford is would be to go as thick as you can afford, my table is 1" thick plate (25.4mm)i understand that with steel prices skyrocketing, this is probably not a realistic solution, what you could do is reinforce the underside of the table with angle iron to help prevent warpage. angle from corner to corner diagonal will help a bitwith thinner metal reinforcement is the key
Reply:I understand that and would ideally go and buy a 1" platebut limited workspace, need for moving the table and lack of needfor hammering and working on heavy items has led me tobuy this piece - will support it to keep it as flat as possible.My immediate question is whether for the 8mm (0,32") plate I should remove the outside edge with the plasma(it's flat everywhere except at the edge and one section atone end) or just screw it down to the frame (force it flat) when I build itto try to flatten it - no experience with this/could play aroundbending it etc. but wanted an opinion so I'm not re-inventing the wheel/wasting my time.The other question was whether it's more worthwhile cuttingthe plate into wide sections and screwing them down (for betterease of clamping etc) - does it make sense with this thickness ?OK, probably sounds like a lot of stupid questions but just wanted an opinion ( Tossing a lot of ideas/what I've seen in the project posts/even consideringmaking two smaller tables which can be connected via "receivers"due to space constraints)
Reply:Hello vjeco,Free hand cutting the plate with either a plasma or torch will likely warp it more than it is. If you have access to a metal cutting saw, Evolution or Milwaukee make some nice ones, that would be a better bet. The same goes for cutting slots in the plate. As far as getting it flat. What are your plans for you future table? What will the frame be made of? If you plan on using rectangular / square tube or angle iron, you could make your frame stiff enough to hold the plate flat when you bolt/tack it down.  Just make sure you place the plate on the frame with the bow or warp going up at the edges. That way as you clamp the edges to the frame the bow will force the center down to the frame and, hopefully, the plate will be flat. If the frame doesn’t come out very flat, just shim the low spots. Be patient and use your level/straight edge to check as you go.If you want to make your table out of wide strips it might be easier to buy flat bar to make it out of. Maybe keep the plate for a later project? I’m not too well versed on what is available in MM, so I’m going to use inches for an example. Maybe get some ½” X 10” flat bar, lets say three of them 24” long. Build your frame 30” wide by 20” deep by however tall you want it. Then place your flat bar pieces across it, the 24” length will over hang the 20” frame 2” front and back. Over hang the side plates 2” and center the 3rd plate in the middle. If my math is right that would leave a 2” gap on either side of the center plate. Check it all with a straight edge as you bolt/tack it down.Hope this helps a little.Will
Reply:OK, thanks, will look into the alternative thicker material - if I canget something cheap. Unfortunatelly I paid approx $200 in your currency for the plate (78in * 39 in * .32" thick) , so would like to use it (if I keep going with welding as a hobby etc. maybeit won't be the only table I make ) I said "unfortunately" as I had no experiencewith material this thick and thought it would be thick enough to be reasonablystiff/flat (even though I heard all the guys over and over talking about 1/2" or 1"- didn't listen to the teachers  - learnt something the hard way) To think of it I did see some "rusty" cast iron pieces at the salvage yard(they were (my memory doesn't serve me very well now) approx 2' * 8" * 1"- squareall around except on one short end the corners were indented - not surewhat they were used for - maybe that would be good - approx $0.8/kgLast edited by vjeko; 03-18-2011 at 12:09 PM.Reason: new info
Reply:vjeko,x2 here for the thick plate.  Here's the fab table I completed a few weeks ago...very solid and very flat...kinda pretty too if I do say so myselfhttp://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=51861I but a set of casters on mine and it rolls around very easily.My 1" thick plate was $200.Miller 211 w/ spool gunMiller Dynasty 200DXLongevity 60i IGBT plasmaO/A w/ crappy chinese torch/gaugesSouth Bend 10K latheGrizzly 4029 10x54 millGrizzly 7x12 hor bandsawangle grnders, bench grnder, bench belt sndr7.5 hp 80gal cmprsor
Reply:hi and welcome to the process. when you are in business , you order the material from a supplier to build what is required.  when i get an idea for something i want to make, part of the thinking is "what is in my scrap pile that i can use to make this?".. if you are not inclined to spend money on new material scrap utilization becomes an important skill. whren you are walking through thesccrapyard, the better you can make the leap from  what  initially was thought of to" this is what is on hand" the more successful  you will be at saving $$ and producing what you want. i seldom come across plate, but had access to some other stuff and scabbed together h beams, pipe, channel, angle and grating  into  a pretty good table  for  $0... Attached Images
Reply:BTD - your table looks more like a bar table than a welders table - justthrow a towel over your arm and serve the beers (have the towel readyfor wiping down the table  ) - that looks too good to damage in any way Weldbead - good idea - unfortunately haven't got any scrap yet - not at thatstage yet  , will look around the salvage yard againheck, it's my first table, have to push myself forward (too much procrastination Thanks for all the info - will show what I make (hopefully my welds improve enough )