Need paint help

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I'm picking up a "new to me" Knaack gang box this weekend. The box is mechanically perfect but the paint is not. I plan to clean it sand it and spray it a orange or green. I'm just curoius what paint I should use? Should I spray it with clear after to help protect it? I was thinking maybe rustoleum thinned out so I can shoot it through a gun? Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks
Reply:If it was me, I would get a cheap tractor paint with some hardner.  Around here Fleet Fram sales Valspal tractor paint. Under $10.00 a quart.  a pint of hardner about $15.00 ( not sure on that) and Some thinner.  Good Luck  DayePound to fit, paint to match
Reply:Originally Posted by joe6I'm picking up a "new to me" Knaack gang box this weekend. The box is mechanically perfect but the paint is not. I plan to clean it sand it and spray it a orange or green. I'm just curoius what paint I should use? Should I spray it with clear after to help protect it? I was thinking maybe rustoleum thinned out so I can shoot it through a gun? Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks
Reply:try these. brush or use a gun Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by BTDJoe6,I recently completed a fab table / tool box project and originally intended to use the Valspar Tractor paint sold by Tractor Supply.  Application via HVLP gun. I had some issues with the paint and switched to PPG Shopline epoxy primer and 2K urethane topcoat...no clear coat.  I was very impressed with the results even though it certainly wasn't up to Show Car standards.  For photos, see http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=51861About the Valspar tractor paint.  The recommendation I got was to use naptha as a thinner combined with Valspar's hardener.  The results were said to be much improved cure time and a glossier finish for the top coat.  I was also using the Valspar primer...wanted to keep the same mfg product line primer and topcoat.  I thinned the primer per mfg's recommendation but found that this was still too viscous for the gun so I added more thinner until I got the correct viscosity.  Conditions were around 70 degrees and 70% humidity.  After 24 hours the primer was still uncured....not tacky but still soft and easy to dent with a fingernail.  I called the mfg and was told that the additional thinner was not a good idea and that this product was only intended to be applied by brush.  So I stripped off the primer and recoated w/ PPG.I now think that the primer would have cured if I'd waited long enough but "long enough" could have been days or maybe weeks...and I'm not that patient.  I never got around to trying the Valspar top coat but I'll use it on another project and see how it acts.  I've heard reports and seen photos from others who have used this product and had good results....and of course it's cheap...a lot cheaper than automotive epoxy primer and urethane paint....much safer too.IMHO, if you don't mind a brush finish or don't mind possibly waiting a long time for the paint to cure, the Valspar may work fine.I'd like to here how this comes out....post some pics.
Reply:Originally Posted by ed mactry these. brush or use a gun
Reply:I Have a Knaack box, I did the same thing I sand blasted the whole thing, Primed it, and I called Knaack, They sent me all the decals, the 2 big decals for the front and back, 2 medium size ones for the sides, and 4 small ones for the trays.  They also sent me 2 qaurts of actual Knaack paint.  That light Peanut Butter color.  They also said they could give me the paint code, if I wanted to get paint mixed.  Nice Customer Service.Some Blue , Some Red & Some GreyProverbs 16:2-3.2 "All a person’s ways seem pure to them, but motives are weighed by the Lord. 3 Commit to the Lord whatever you do, and he will establish your plans."
Reply:The only problem I have ever had with using Rustoleum on stuff that see daylight is that it tends to get chaulky/faded over time.  Some say that it really isn't UV proof and that could be the issue.Anyone have any thoughts on that?ChrisLincoln Pro Mig 180TMiller Spectrum 375
Reply:I'll throw in a vote for thinned Rust-oleum (or equivalent enamel).  This dude even painted his car with it:http://www.rickwrench.com/index79mas...llarpaint.html
Reply:I have in the past used Rusoleum industrial enamel, thinned with mineral spirits and sometimes added japan drier to speed drying time. Recently, painted my  landcruiser with rustoleum industrial enamel  thinned with laquer thinner. I used a matt finish hunter green mixed with flat black (should have used red instead of black) going for a military look. Worked like a chairm, dried really quickly. I am not sure if this would work well for a glossy finish, but the end result I got was a semi gloss paint job that resists the Arizona sun and the "Arizona pinstripes" you normally get from driving through the thorny brush and trees round here.Mike