What am I doing wrong (with pics)

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So got the new welder out for a trial run today, and can't get it to work right.  I don't think enough amps are allowing a good strike.First...the welder is a Chicago Electric Welding Systems AC-180 (aka the harbor freight special) that I found on craigslist:I thought it was crappy that I couldn't find an amp setting...then stumbled upon what I call, the "ballpark" gauge on top of the machine:I tried using 2 different types of electrodes that were either 3/32" or 1/16" in diameter:The welder came together with this welding cart and clamps.  I clamped a piece of sheet metal to the cart using the two clamps, and then attached the ground.  When I touched the electrode to the metal it was like it wasn't getting enough current?  The electrode would produce a brief spark and then stick to the sheet.  If I left it touching the sheet, it would get harder to pull away and turn red hot.  Now I have the welder on a 50amp GFCI breaker that sits maybe 15' from where I'm welding.  I figured I'd swap out the welders plug for one that I use with my brewing system to make things easier, so I would have to wire a second socket.  This may be were the problem lies as the plug says it's a 30 amp plug?  Does the welder have to build up a charge or something like that...like the flash on a camera?I'm totally lost, so any help is appreciated
Reply:If you aren't tripping a breaker the plug shouldn't be a problem unless its not wired correctly and only getting one side of the 220 voltage.Millermatic 252millermatic 175miller 300 Thunderboltlincoln ranger 250smith torcheslots of bfh'sIf it dont fit get a bigger hammer
Reply:Try some 6010 rods made for AC current.Vantage 500's LN-25's, VI-400's, cobramatics, Miller migs, synch 350 LX, Powcon inverters, XMT's, 250 Ton Acurrpress 12' brake, 1/4" 10' Atlantic shear,Koikie plasma table W/ esab plasmas. marvel & hyd-mech saws, pirrana & metal muncher punches.
Reply:Switch that thing to DC for starters. No need to try running AC if you don't have to. Thicker steel and the 3/32 rods will make things easier as well. Try 3/16-1/4 steel with the 3/32 rods on DCEP and just worry about striking and maintaining an arc at first. Once ya got that then try to run an even bead.NickESAB CaddyTig 2200iPowermax 45MM140 (Sold)
Reply:Can it run DC if it's on a 220 line? (sorry...I really know jack about electricity).
Reply:Originally Posted by jdlevCan it run DC if it's on a 220 line? (sorry...I really know jack about electricity).
Reply:You got + and - connections on the front panel of that machine. The stinger should be hooked up to the + and the ground clamp hooked to the -. The manual should spell it all out.NickESAB CaddyTig 2200iPowermax 45MM140 (Sold)
Reply:HAHAHAHAHA!!  The DC thing worked!  I was able to strike my first arc and run a bead.  I was already a pyro so I can tell I'm absolutely gonna love this.  Thanks a ton guys!
Reply:Originally Posted by SnuffyYou got + and - connections on the front panel of that machine. The stinger should be hooked up to the + and the ground clamp hooked to the -. The manual should spell it all out.
Reply:Originally Posted by jdlevHAHAHAHAHA!!  The DC thing worked!  I was able to strike my first arc and run a bead.  I was already a pyro so I can tell I'm absolutely gonna love this.  Thanks a ton guys!
Reply:Originally Posted by SnuffyMore pics!
Reply:You're not doin bad. I'de expect you to be blowing holes through that sheet but you're not. Keep the tip of that rod as close to the sheet as you can get it without touching and keep your movement slow and steady. Then take pics after the slag is knocked off lol.NickESAB CaddyTig 2200iPowermax 45MM140 (Sold)
Reply:Originally Posted by DualieTry some 6010 rods made for AC current.
Reply:Originally Posted by SnuffyYou're not doin bad. I'de expect you to be blowing holes through that sheet but you're not. Keep the tip of that rod as close to the sheet as you can get it without touching and keep your movement slow and steady. Then take pics after the slag is knocked off lol.
Reply:Well for starters, get rid of that "HORRIBLE FRIGHT" toy and go out and buy a real welder.  You'll be happy you did and you'll thank yourself in the end.Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:Originally Posted by SuperArcWell for starters, get rid of that "HORRIBLE FRIGHT" toy and go out and buy a real welder.  You'll be happy you did and you'll thank yourself in the end.
Reply:Originally Posted by SuperArcWell for starters, get rid of that "HORRIBLE FRIGHT" toy and go out and buy a real welder.  You'll be happy you did and you'll thank yourself in the end.
Reply:Originally Posted by grumpycricketIt's sh!t machine, but good enough to practice for a couple 100 hours. By then, you'll better know your level of commitment. $ would be better spent on tutoring.
Reply:It seems to be a trend ...newbs drop a boat load of $ on a top if the line inverter, a fancy tattoo'd auto dark helmet. Then they sit in their garage and teach THEMSELVES  how to tig. The first project is usually a cart, then a trailer. Within a few weeks, they're welding nuclear reactors.  Now this is not aimed @ the o.p. ... I think he's doing it right. But some advice for all of you newbs, GET PROFESSIONAL HELP! FIRST! Once you get several hundred hours of seat time, and ideally some classroom time,  then spend the big $ outfitting your garage. Just sayin ...http://www.facebook.com/LockhartMetalArthttp://www.facebook.com/pages/Grumpy...44306259043484
Reply:Originally Posted by grumpycricketThe first project is usually a cart, then a trailer.
Reply:Originally Posted by grumpycricketIt seems to be a trend ...newbs drop a boat load of $ on a top if the line inverter, a fancy tattoo'd auto dark helmet. Then they sit in their garage and teach THEMSELVES  how to tig. The first project is usually a cart, then a trailer. Within a few weeks, they're welding nuclear reactors.  Now this is not aimed @ the o.p. ... I think he's doing it right. But some advice for all of you newbs, GET PROFESSIONAL HELP! FIRST! Once you get several hundred hours of seat time, and ideally some classroom time,  then spend the big $ outfitting your garage. Just sayin ...
Reply:For starters, I would suggest using the Miller weld setting calculator to rough in a suggested amp range. Because you're still learning how to strike an arc and keep your rod from sticking, I suggest aiming towards the high end of the suggested range.Don't bother trying to stick weld anything thinner than 1/8" until you get waaaay better. 1/4" is better. Welding on a big piece of metal will make your life easier. When I first started welding, I tried to stretch my money by buying 1/8" stock and cutting it up for practice. Even the 1/8" was thin enough that it heated up really unevenly and made my life difficult. 1/4" or 3/8" stock is more expensive, foot-for-foot, than thinner stuff, but you can put multiple beads down on it, so on a bead-per-bead basis, it is a better buy. In other words, you could buy some 3/8" stock, weld it into a T, and then continue to lay beads in the T joint until it is full up. Whereas with 1/8", The whole thing would be red hot and warped to heck.With that welder, you are going to have a hard time running some 1/8" rods on DC. It looks like it tops out around 105 amps. Miller suggests a minimum of 110 amps for 1/8" E7018. For 6010/6011, it suggests 75-125 amps, but those rods are a real bear to run well if you don't have the skills. E6013 may be an okay choice for practice, as it runs 80-130 amps with a 1/8" electrode. I have found that 1/8" electrodes are easier to practice with than 3/32. Kind of like "big crayons", you know?As others have said, if you have the option to run on DC, you should pretty much always run on DC. Smoother arc and easier strikes.Unless you are a real masochist, don't try to learn on 6010/6011. 6013, 7014, and 7018 are much easier to run, and will give you a chance to get your feet under you a little bit. I found that, with 6011, no matter what I did, the beads looked terrible, so it was really hard to tell if I was doing anything right at all. With 7018, the rod is kind of working with me, and I have an easier time telling what I'm doing right and wrong.Check out http://weldingtipsandtricks.com for some good instructional videos. Also, watch this video, then watch it again, then go weld some, then watch it again. [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2537L5H7NiY&list=PLEoDm8CFWSc5jvAPuq8nHCTs  lkVTqs5Wk&index=1"]Wall Mountain[/ame]And get an auto-darkening helmet from Harbor Freight for $60 if you don't have one. Will help a lot by allowing you to see the work piece before you strike the arc. Otherwise, when you are striking, you are just kind of poking blind.Last edited by joshuabardwell; 12-27-2012 at 10:30 AM.
Reply:Originally Posted by joshuabardwellAnd get an auto-darkening helmet from Harbor Freight for $60 if you don't have one. Will help a lot by allowing you to see the work piece before you strike the arc. Otherwise, when you are striking, you are just kind of poking blind.
Reply:Not knocking your machine to much , but like they say a poor mechanic blames his tools, in this case the machine will limit you, and it will keep you from developing quickly. It is cool that you will like welding, go get that lincoln and you will LOVE welding. trust us on this one."Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum"Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DCMillermatic 251   Syncrowave 300   30A spoolgunLincoln MP210Hypertherm 45(2) LN 25(2) Lincoln Weldanpower 225 CV(4) SA200   1 short hood    SA250    SAM 400
Reply:deffinatly switch rod to learn. 7018 can be tricky to strike for a beginner. try a 7024. In the field we called it the monkey rod (even a monkey can weld with it) In my opinion its not really good for anything. and it is a flat position only rod, but it will help you learn puddle control and technique. Remember, welding is all about consistancy. If you cant keep a puddle running consistant then your welds will never look good. Steady your hand however possible. I burned alot of gloves when I learned because i would hold my rod from shaking with my left fore finger. At the same time try not to rest your hand on the table to much because you will become a "2 inch welder" you wanna be able to be steady and yet move down the project at the same time.. Good luck!Lead, Certified welder8 yrs Heavy Equipment, Structural, DecorativeMIG TIG ARC Spray Arc, Pulse CS SS Alum.Multimatic 200Millermatic 130Millermatic 210Lincoln Ranger 225Lincoln Invertec V155Harris Torch setHobart Tigwave x2