draw bar for deere tractor

admin

I need to fabricate a draw bar like the picture below. Only the customer wants me to make it in the shape of a Z. So it steps up from the tractor because the mount is lower on the tractor then on the trailer. The material used on the photo below is 1.250 x 2.500 flat bar. Now is this bar just regular mild steel or is it work hardened? I read a few websites selling these bars with the words "forged steel" below the description.  Any advice would help.
Reply:picture Attached Images
Reply:They are hardened steel, check on ebay some can be had for around $100miller... 225g, s32p, 250x, 304, 12vs, MSW41     victor o/a thermal dynamics cutmaster 50 lenco panel spotter        hobart hf-boxG3 Farms.....raising cattle, hay, kids and hell, ...oh yeah I'm a fire sprinkler contractor by trade.
Reply:I think they get or got made out of just about anything and everything depending on when they were made, cost and country of origin.Swinging draw bar is the phrase. http://www.tractorsupply.com/agricul...inging-0265105"The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." -Theodore Roosevelt
Reply:What he wants you to make is called an offset draw bar.  He could buy one from the dealer but probably expects you to be able to come in at less $.  They are not mild steel.  That one looks like mine for a 5000 series.  Ones a bit older seem to have more radius on the corners.  The big hole is for the implement and is 1 1/4 inch.  The two holes close to that are for the hammer strap which makes like a clevis for attaching something, most implements have the clevis end.  The other three holes are for the pin to attach it to the tractor.  The two ones far from the big hole should be made exact distance from the big hole because they make the center of the big hole end up 14 and 16 inches from the end of the pto shaft. At least make the one for 14 inches that is for a 540 pto. The last hole is to pin it pretty much out of the way and I can't see that working on an offset draw bar at least in the same spot.  It might be able to swing or it might kind of have three sockets depending on the tractor.  Try and file it and see how far from mild steel you think it is or if you are good at the spark test grind on the end away from the big hole.FranLast edited by fran...k.; 01-07-2013 at 01:17 AM.
Reply:Another thing would be to make a section of receiver hitch material available from a trailer dealer, etrailer and some deere dealers that can be attached to the existing draw bar then your customer can get the rise or drop he needs.  I will guess it isn't an ag implement the first application is for.He could also have you make or buy a device to hold the receiver socket that attaches to the three point hitch which would allow the tractor hydraulics to set the height as desired.  Just necessary to chain this set up down if there is a chance the load on the trailer tongue becomes negative.
Reply:I made one from a junk 3 point plow frame . Got the plow cheap and recycled the steel. The frame was same thickness and with of the original equipment draw bar.
Reply:Definitely not mild steel.  Check with ag equipment salvage places such as Abilene Machine in Abilene KS.
Reply:What do you guys think of this idea. Im going to do my best to fully explain it via the computer. How about if I bought one of the draw bars just like the one pictured above. There's two issues with that bar that needs to be corrected. (hence the reason why I am being called). Problem number one - The bar needs to be 42 inches long, not 36. Problem number two - The bar needs to be 8" higher. So the solution I have came up with: What if I bought a 2" receiver tube  thats 24" long. I then welded that tube directly to the top if the existing draw bar and left it to hang off then end 6". Then all they would have to do is insert the 2" male receiver tube into the 2" female side and be done with it...Now do you think this is a bad idea? Good idea. Im trying to go simple and cheap, I don't want to get involved in hardened material - drilling holes - etc....
Reply:something like this would be inserted into the end of the tube... Attached Images
Reply:It should work. I have welded broken draw bars before. As long as it is not serious verticle load if you are concerned you could bolt the draw bar and receiver togeatherMillermatic 252millermatic 175miller 300 Thunderboltlincoln ranger 250smith torcheslots of bfh'sIf it dont fit get a bigger hammer
Reply:Just explain to the owner if he's pulling a heavy load, especially uphill, it will have a tendency to lift weight off the front tires besides putting tremendous down force on the drawbar swing frame.                                   MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:Eight inches is too high in my opinion.  Too much twisting force on the draw bar in anything but straigat and level.  As far as going farther back certainly some de rating for the weight from the manual would be in order.How heavy is the trailer or implement?  With sure track I was specing out a dump trailer and the standard was a fixed ball socket but for an extra $100 you could opt for an adjustable vertically ball socket.http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Coup...2005C0317.html Attached Images
Reply:Hey frank I think you solved my problem. Thank you.  Instead of going this whole draw bar route, I am going to fix the coupling side of the trailer with the adjustable one you showed me. That will adjust to 8" which is what I need. Now I need to add a total of 6" length but I can do that by add to the tongue somehow. That was the best advice you saved me here. The best part about the whole thing, I weld it on and it's done, no switching bars, no hardened material, drilling holes, nothing..