Making oval holes round

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The ripper shank holders on my tractor have ovaled out due to use.  Currently the pins are 1/2" and I want to upsize them to 5/8". The shanks are already 5/8" and show no wear.  I tried drilling them, but the drill bit catches.I considered laying some weld to get them closer to round.  A 5/8" tapered reamer would probably do the trick, but that's $50.Any ideas what would work best.Last edited by orezok; 01-01-2013 at 07:29 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by orezokThe ripper shank holders on my tractor have ovaled out due to use.  Currently the pins are 1/2" and I want to upsize them to 5/8". The shanks are already 5/8" and show no wear.  I tried drilling them, but the drill bit catches.I considered laying some weld to get them closer to round.  A 5/8" tapered reamer would probably do the trick, but that's $50.Any ideas what would work best.
Reply:In similar situations where a hole was slightly off or damaged and I could correct it with a bigger bolt I have had luck with tacking a plate over the hole and drilling through it using it as a drill guide and keep the drill in the propper place.
Reply:+1 on a reamer. 5/8"reamer will have other uses like trailer hitch receiver pin holes. This is how I justify tools like this to the wife.Millermatic 200Hobart Handler 120Victor O/A & Ramco BandsawLincoln 225 ACSnapOn AD HoodMiller XMT304/22AHypertherm Powermax 1650 G3Lincoln Idealarc DC600 w/Extreme 12 VSMiller Digital Elite "Joker"
Reply:Originally Posted by Gerry1964A reamer is the best option you have,  a drill bit will just snag, Can you not use a mag drill and a broach drill?
Reply:http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-8-Construc...-/110923368371$30 bucks instead of $50. or take your 1/2" bit and waller the hole out slightly up and down. That will give you a better chance of using a 5/8" twist drill. Gonna need some patience either way.
Reply:5//8" bridge reamer is your best bet.Vantage 500's LN-25's, VI-400's, cobramatics, Miller migs, synch 350 LX, Powcon inverters, XMT's, 250 Ton Acurrpress 12' brake, 1/4" 10' Atlantic shear,Koikie plasma table W/ esab plasmas. marvel & hyd-mech saws, pirrana & metal muncher punches.
Reply:Would a unibit work ???
Reply:I might try to shave the edge of the hole just a little with a O/A torch to make it more round.  Then try the drill bit.  This depends on your skill with the torch.  The torch can also make a raggedy mess.Dynasty200DX w/coolmate1MM210MM VintageESAB miniarc161ltsLincoln AC225Victor O/A, Smith AW1ACutmaster 81IR 2475N7.5FPRage3Jancy USA1019" SBAEAD-200LE
Reply:the odds of you making it better with a torch are very slim to absolutely none.Vantage 500's LN-25's, VI-400's, cobramatics, Miller migs, synch 350 LX, Powcon inverters, XMT's, 250 Ton Acurrpress 12' brake, 1/4" 10' Atlantic shear,Koikie plasma table W/ esab plasmas. marvel & hyd-mech saws, pirrana & metal muncher punches.
Reply:I had good luck getting them closer with a die grinder, then drilling. I also had good luck recently by clamping a piece of 1/2" plate to something like that to support my mag drill, then just using an annular cutter.
Reply:You could weld a slug into the hole then drill it out again.  50 bucks for a reamer or 50 bucks in drill bits?  Maybe braze it to save the drill bits.Or could you weld on new hole----a plate with the size hole you want.Last edited by tapwelder; 01-02-2013 at 12:34 AM.
Reply:If i had some similar material I would cut those two out and replace with new, Just get a large 9" grinder with cutting disk in there cut them out and make two more up with a bit of channel the same size or a bit of angle.The reweld, might save time as opposed to playing around with drills and reamers
Reply:I'd used a die grinder and eye ball it. Even with the reamer you'll need to get it close to diameter first.
Reply:If those started as 1/2", 5/8" ain't gonna make 'em round again.I like forhire's idea.  BTDT.  Drop a shank in and use it for a guide.If you want the holes round again, find some copper or aluminum for a backer.  Weld the holes shut and re-drill.$50 for a reamer ain't nothin'.  I spend a lot more than that on tools to fix farmers stuff.My name's not Jim....
Reply:As mentioned 5/8 is not going to make those holes round. Either weld the holes up and redrill or make new mounts. I would think that it would be quicker and cheaper to make new mounts.
Reply:Get some heavy wall 1/2" pipe, sched. 80 if available, but regular wall sched. 40 pipe will do almost as well.Cut some collars 1/2" long or so from the pipe and weld them on the outside of each of the plates.  The pipe collars will outlast just a hole in the plate many times over.Of course you will need longer bolts if you do this."The reason we are here is that we are not all there"SA 200Idealarc TM 300 300MM 200MM 25130a SpoolgunPrecision Tig 375Invertec V350 ProSC-32 CS 12 Wire FeederOxweld/Purox O/AArcAirHypertherm Powermax 85LN25
Reply:Open up the holes to 1 inch and press or tack weld in a hardened bushing(s) with the proper 1/2 or 5/8 I.D. hole. You won't have this problem next year. If so, just change the bushing(s), use class 8 bolts and your good to go.
Reply:Forget about fixing the holes just weld a plate across the front of the brackets so the shank bears on it then the bolt or pin just has to keep the shank from falling out.Lincolin Power Wave 450, Lincoln Powermig 255, Lincoln Pro Mig 140, Lincoln Squarewave Tig 275, Miller Big 40 G(with Hobart Hefty suitcase), Thermal Arc 95S and Esab PCM875 in an already full machine shop.
Reply:I know you said that space was limited for a drill, but for future reference...A 2-point drill bit is going to catch and have a hard time cutting on irregular shaped holes...ALWAYS. You need 3 or more points. Specifically, look up "core drills". They were originally used to size the holes that had been cast into castings. These need a starter hole. But they work very well. Used one just the other day to enlarge a hole that had been made by a torch. The free-hand torched hole would pass a 1" bolt. Needed clearance for 1 1/8" bolt...dug through the drawer and found a 1 3/16" core drill. Drilled it out in no time. Core drills are "usually" Morse Taper shanks...As you can see, there isn't much room in the flutes for chips. You should really only be taking max 1/4" off the diameter anyway. As well, the thicker center makes the drill more rigid which helps with concentricity and alignment of the new hole.AndrewLast edited by Andrew_D; 01-02-2013 at 08:16 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by ZZWELDOpen up the holes to 1 inch and press or tack weld in a hardened bushing(s) with the proper 1/2 or 5/8 I.D. hole. You won't have this problem next year. If so, just change the bushing(s), use class 8 bolts and your good to go.
Reply:I'd weld a plate, and brace on it where this will fit, and redrill. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by ZZWELDOpen up the holes to 1 inch and press or tack weld in a hardened bushing(s) with the proper 1/2 or 5/8 I.D. hole. You won't have this problem next year. If so, just change the bushing(s), use class 8 bolts and your good to go.
Reply:Here's the plan, thanks to several of your collective suggestions.  I'm going to round up the hole first with a step drill.  I've ordered a 5/8" bridge reamer to complete the process.  But, to prevent this from happening again, I'm going to weld in some shims per the attached to take the load off the pin.  This should be a permanent fix.The pins shouldn't have beed designed to carry the load, just hold the ripper in place.Last edited by 983-over; 01-03-2013 at 11:09 AM.HTP 2400, HTP 131 TIG, O/A and a ton of fab and mechanics tools.
Reply:Torch em out a bit larger then weld in a short stub of DOM tubing that has a 5/8 ID.  No need to waste money on drills and reamers and fighting with a friggin electric drill.If you use a tube that has a really thick wall you'll be pushing daisies long before the holes stretch out again.  That's what I call a lifetime warranty!- MondoMember, AWSLincoln ProMIG 140Lincoln AC TombstoneCraftsman Lathe 12 x 24 c1935Atlas MFC Horizontal MillCraftsman Commercial Lathe 12 x 36 c1970- - - I'll just keep on keepin' on.Quit monkeying around and put some filler metal on the worn area, then grind it to fit with a grinding stone http://www.toolzone.com/acatalog/Grinding_Stones.html  Flexovit, and others, make these. Fits your grinder, and makes life easy.Besides, it's not the space shuttle, and nobody's gonna ever see it"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:One more idea is to tack on a 5/8" washer and use it for a guide to run a hole saw through. It all depends on what's in the shop.__________________
Reply:Why do you guys have to make it so hard??"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:In case ya wondered.........it's beer nite It's my "night out".And MOST IMPORTANTLY..........................K'kins went to the hairdresser today  Twas around 3:00PM, and I ain't seen her yet  She promised to come home with a new short haircut.  SHORT  Methinks they ain't enough beer on the planet for when she walks thru that door tonite"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Gawd amighty"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by 983-overHere's the plan, thanks to several of your collective suggestions.  I'm going to round up the hole first with a step drill.  I've ordered a 5/8" bridge reamer to complete the process.  But, to prevent this from happening again, I'm going to weld in some shims per the attached to take the load off the pin.  This should be a permanent fix.The pins shouldn't have beed designed to carry the load, just hold the ripper in place.
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammQuit monkeying around and put some filler metal on the worn area, then grind it to fit with a grinding stone http://www.toolzone.com/acatalog/Grinding_Stones.html  Flexovit, and others, make these. Fits your grinder, and makes life easy.Besides, it's not the space shuttle, and nobody's gonna ever see it
Reply:Originally Posted by SuperArcI was thinking the same thing.   I'd try farmersamm's approach before anything else.
Reply:Yup 2 welding rods & stone n die grinder job done!
Reply:Originally Posted by PavinsteelmanYup 2 welding rods & stone n die grinder job done!
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammQuit monkeying around and put some filler metal on the worn area, then grind it to fit with a grinding stone http://www.toolzone.com/acatalog/Grinding_Stones.html  Flexovit, and others, make these. Fits your grinder, and makes life easy.Besides, it's not the space shuttle, and nobody's gonna ever see it
Reply:You have to remember it's a ripper on a tractor,I don't think you need the precision of a reamer, or even a electric Mag drill. I would wallow it out with a 5/8"-11/16" bit and use a 5/8" pin, or go way bigger and weld in bushing (tubing, bushings or sch 80 pipe) material in the holes. Welding bushing material in would be a good idea if you have many holes that have to be lined up at the same time.  Put them all in with an alignment bar before tacking.  Again, remember what it is, it's supposed to be a little loose so you can install or remove them in a hurry by yourself after the ripper hits the water line.
Reply:Originally Posted by forhireThought about hard facing the holes? Weld them up, die grind them to diameter and use your original pins. Hard faced they will wear much slower. If anything then pin will likely wear faster and pins are easily replaced.
Reply:That looks real similar to plow riggin to me and I have been there.I made some large countersinks to get the rim round so that a drill won't catch so hard. trying to go next size oversized in this situation is often the hardest.If you follow some of the previous ideas and drill large enough for a piece of pipe to pass through both holes and the tack or weld it in place will be a life time fix.However good luck
Reply:983-over has it right. A little build up and die grinder to get the hole to take the pin and shims to the frame so the ripper frame takes the load and the pin does its designed job of retaining the shank. If you wanted the pin to take load and last you'd be looking at 3/4"+ pins and probably bushings.Millermatic 200Hobart Handler 120Victor O/A & Ramco BandsawLincoln 225 ACSnapOn AD HoodMiller XMT304/22AHypertherm Powermax 1650 G3Lincoln Idealarc DC600 w/Extreme 12 VSMiller Digital Elite "Joker"
Reply:Where are the photo results of pin and hole fit?The story needs an ending.AWS certified welding inspectorAWS certified welder
Reply:May have been suggested already, torch the holes a bit bigger and weld new plates on each side with the proper size hole.
Reply:Originally Posted by Donald BranscomWhere are the photo results of pin and hole fit?The story needs an ending.