Why do I still stink at welding?

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I keep practicing, but I seem to be getting worse, not better. I don't get it. All my welds seem to be about 30% filler metal, and 70% slag. I've tried all kinds of rods. 7014 seems to work best for me.I'm still using a Harbor Freight AC stick welder. I'm running it on 120V at the moment, but I recently installed a 220V outlet, so I can rewire it for that (the welder is switchable between the two). I doubt that will help, though, because I think it's mostly a matter of me sucking at welding rather than having a cheap rig or not enough volts. Lately I've been using 1/16" rod in 7014 because I've been doing small stuff, but even with these rods, turning the machine down to 40amps, I still seem to burn holes through everything on which I work less than 1/4 thick. Another reason I doubt going to 220V would show any improvement.The only way I can anything that doesn't immediately fall apart now is by cleaning the metal well with a wire wheel, welding, chipping off the slag, grinding away the rest of the slag to reveal a join with only a bit of metal and mostly bubbly black hard foam-like stuff, attacking it again with a knotted wire wheel to remove all the foam, welding again in all the holes that were the bubbly stuff, and chipping again, grinding again, wire brushing again, and welding again, about 3 or 4 times. And then it looks horrible so I cover the hole thing in JB  Weld epoxy and spray paint black over it all so no one can see what a horrible job I did. There's got to be a better way, but no matter what I do or how much I practice, I just can't seem to do anything other than either make a huge mess or burn through everything. Please help."To tell which polarity to use go to the bathroom and pour some water down the drain. If it runs clockwise use straight polarity. If it runs counter-clockwise use reverse polarity. Or if it just gurgles use alternating current." -RandomDave
Reply:I posted a picture a while ago from a completely failed experiment. I've learned a lot since then, and don't try to "weld air" anymore (as someone put it), but even when I'm not doing gap-filling or anything like that, my joints still seem to look like this. Well, smaller, obviously, but still a line of something that looks like this:http://weldingweb.com/showpost.php?p...9&postcount=23"To tell which polarity to use go to the bathroom and pour some water down the drain. If it runs clockwise use straight polarity. If it runs counter-clockwise use reverse polarity. Or if it just gurgles use alternating current." -RandomDave
Reply:Skippii, you found the problem, “HARBOR FREIGHT” welder. The second strike against you is you’re trying to learn at the same time. Strike three, stand on your head and weld with your hands behind your back.
Reply:I'm not trying to defend HF or anything like that, but I honestly think that I suck. I'm sure my HF welder will one day soon explode into a fireball for no reason, but as for now, it's certianly pumping out electricity, and I really think that I would suck just as much with any other AC power source. Perhaps I'm wrong--if so, please explain what effect different brands have on slag inclusion and penetration and stuff like that.For the record, I did put a new heavy duty ground clamp on it, as the one with which it came looked more like the clamp on a battery tender than a welder, since that's something even with my limited knowledge I can understand would make a difference.The thing is, if I suck at welding and am not getting better, there's no point in me buying another welder. I'd rather just keep this one, and make a few weak tacks to hold something so I can pay a pro to weld it. What would the advantage of running at 220 volts be? Easier arc starting, perhaps? Would it be more beneficial to spend $20 on the rather obscure plug to make my welder fit the 220V socket, or spend that $20 on welding rods for practice?"To tell which polarity to use go to the bathroom and pour some water down the drain. If it runs clockwise use straight polarity. If it runs counter-clockwise use reverse polarity. Or if it just gurgles use alternating current." -RandomDave
Reply:Is there any way that you can get some welding instruction, and then you will have good gear in your hand. Mig is much easer to learn than stick. Not HF Mig.  You can take on larger projects with 220 than 120.BTW, you can teach a pig to sing and dance, it makes them very unhappy and in the end you still have a pig?Last edited by transit; 02-26-2010 at 06:49 AM.
Reply:You mean I should quit trying to learn stick and get a Mig welder? I've considered that, or getting flux core, but I'd really like to learn stick now that I've started it. I hate to give up on things. Welding instruction would be good, but I don't really know where to start looking for something like that. Do places do like a weekend clinic where you can go for one or two days to learn? Do they teach stick in places like that?I don't mind having a pig if the pig can sing and dance and weld."To tell which polarity to use go to the bathroom and pour some water down the drain. If it runs clockwise use straight polarity. If it runs counter-clockwise use reverse polarity. Or if it just gurgles use alternating current." -RandomDave
Reply:Originally Posted by SkippiiYou mean I should quit trying to learn stick and get a Mig welder? I've considered that, or getting flux core, but I'd really like to learn stick now that I've started it. I hate to give up on things. Welding instruction would be good, but I don't really know where to start looking for something like that. Do places do like a weekend clinic where you can go for one or two days to learn? Do they teach stick in places like that?I don't mind having a pig if the pig can sing and dance and weld.
Reply:So flux core is more difficult than Mig, and just as hard as stick? I thought it was supposed to be the easiest, noob-friendliest method.Thanks for the help, I do appreciate it."To tell which polarity to use go to the bathroom and pour some water down the drain. If it runs clockwise use straight polarity. If it runs counter-clockwise use reverse polarity. Or if it just gurgles use alternating current." -RandomDave
Reply:Start by putting your locatiuon in your User CP, you might be 4 houses away from anyone posting here. If you're near me you can try my 220v Stick on DC, very smooth.Then you might try looking at some videos on Youtube , obviously find welds done with the same welder as yours. This kid likes his a lot.
Reply:Originally Posted by SkippiiSo flux core is more difficult than Mig, and just as hard as stick? I thought it was supposed to be the easiest, noob-friendliest method.Thanks for the help, I do appreciate it.
Reply:I think it is mostly your equipment. I used to have a 110 volt Montgomery Ward stick welder (so you know how long ago that was) and pretty much came up with the same results you are.Now, I am by no means a pro welder, or even close but my stuff seems to hold. My first step was a Lincoln 220 volt stick welder, there was absolutley no comparision. Then I got a Clarke 130en then recently a Lincoln 180. this is over the course of 25 years though.
Reply:maybe he just sucks.. it does happen ya' know... i suck at alot of things..if you're not livin on the edge, you're takin up too much room..
Reply:This works,  make a weld on a plate or whatever you are working on and throw it in the corner. Keep practicing and in two weeks compare that piece in the corner with a current one. You will see improvement if you have been practicing.It is frustrating, even with good equipment. If you can learn on that HF then you will be a super star when you get a decent machine.Remember, if it was easy, I would be out of a job.UA Local 598
Reply:What you might try is to look for weld shops in your area in the phone book or whatever. Give them a call and see if any would be willing to spend a little time with you getting the basics down. You might get some interesting answers but I'm pretty sure you might find one that'll take you in. Also check with the LWS and see if maybe they have an "expert" to help you get started on the right track.Local colleges and stuff are sometimes good....really depends on the instructor. But they also cover a lot of material that might not really be important to you. But if you have the time it's all good stuff to know. As for the machine I think your limiting yourself but I can understand being reluctant to buy a pro model if your basics aren't solid. That'll be one reason to get outside instruction....work on their machines and see how much difference it makes. Once you do I think you'll be using the HF for a door stop. Even with the pro models there are differences that make each model weld differently. I burned alot of rod before getting real instruction. Learned more in the first 30 minutes with a good instructor than I did in melting 300 pounds of rod on my own. And if you learn stick I think it makes mig and tig a lot easier. The basics are similar. Practice doesn't make perfect, perfect practice makes perfect. AlA man is judged by what's between his legs...always ride a good horseMiller DialArc HFLincoln Classic 300DThermal Arc 181iPowermax 45Scotchman Ironworker(2) BridgeportsOkomota Surface GrinderAutoCAD 2010
Reply:You should really post where you are at because someone might live close enough to help you.  Also  if someone is near you maybe you'll be able to try their machine that way you can see what the difference in between them would be.  I think the biggest problem you have is running such small rod which burns to quickly and doesn't give you enough time to see and learn what you doing.
Reply:I feel your frustration about not being able to stick weld.I took a welding class at college (25 years ago) and have since not welded much.  At that time I could sort of stick weld and actually TIG weld steel also.  I tried mig welding back then and had some difficulty.Years later I bought a little 220 v lincoln fluxcore welder and picked it up pretty quick.  I later converted it to MIG operation and had issues until I changed from .025 to .030 wire, then things got a lot easier with much better results.Later I bought a cheap HF inverter stick/TIG and have had pretty poor results trying both stick and TIG with it!  I even tried doing stick on someone else's big miller and found the problem is ME!!  So I am using my MIG welder to weld things (projects) and the Stick/TIG is just something I practice with and attempt improve my skills.My suggestion to you is:Keep an eye out on craigslist for a good deal on a used Lincoln, miller or hobart wire feed welder.   Sometimes you can find fluxcore ones for $200 or less or ones set up for MIG with the Bottle, kart and every thing for $400 or less.  Buy one and see why wire feed welders are taking over the hobby market: they are easy to learn with, easy to use and provide great results.Bob
Reply:Skippii,  Don't despair;  if an old fart like me can improve his stick welding, you can, too.  I started out with a Northern Tool, $89, chinese made, two-setting (57 or 70 amp), AC little arc welder.  After weeks of frustration at just trying to strike and maintain an arc, I made two crucial decisions.  One, I decided to take a basic welding class at the community college.  Cheap and very student oriented.  Two, I bought a Hobart Stickmate AC/DC.  Not very expensive, but much easier to learn on than the other one.  I read everything I could get my hands on about welding techniques, and along with the hands-on instruction, I finally saw considerable improvement.   I will never be as proficient at welding as most of the readers on this forum, but I have completed a couple of projects that I feel good about.  Once you "see" the puddle, and can manipulate it, the learning  goes a lot faster.  Fit-up is a lot more important than I first realized, along with correct rods/amp settings.  It is also easier to see the puddle and learn to read it on larger rods than 1/16.  Even 3/32's I keep the old welding cart, chair shaped thing, that I stuck together with the first welder.  It is good reminder of how much my welds have improved in less than a year.Nctox,  Stickmate LX  235AC/160DC  HH210
Reply:Skipp,What Transit said is very true when it comes to equipment.  An experienced welder may be able to take the HF machine and make a decent weld.  That's because he's found "a way around" the machine's limitations.  A new guy is fighting an uphill battle trying to learn on a marginal machine.  He doesn't know whether he's being let down by the machine or by his own lack of knowledge.  You'll find that welding at higher amps, on thicker material is much easier for practice purposes.  It would definitely be wise to post your location.  There well may be someone in your area who would be willing to get you headed in the right direction.  In just the last year, I've worked with three guys who were interested in welding but didn't know where to turn.  An hour or so with an experienced welder could be worth 100# of bad practice rods.  If you're doing something wrong, you're probably just getting very good at doing it wrong.By reducing the number of unknowns (machine upgrade) you're allowing yourself to focus on the things you control.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:I've used harbor freight welders. An experienced welder can make them work. But honestly they're a pain. Not the best equipment to learn by yourself on. 1/16 rod is also difficult to run. I would suggest running 3/32 at least for practicing with, maybe even 1/8 if your machine can handle it with 220v. Then work your way down to thinner stuff. As stated already, post your location, some one may be near by that can help you out.I wish I knew how you managed that weld in the other thread. It may not be a good weld, but I see potential as a texturing technique for some of my art work.
Reply:Originally Posted by Grimm1I wish I knew how you managed that weld in the other thread. It may not be a good weld, but I see potential as a texturing technique for some of my art work.
Reply:Not trying to be negative but some people just don't have the eye hand (and often times foot and total body) coordination to weld. I am not going to be good at complex sheet metal work...my mind just does not work that way for whatever reason. Its ok to not be good at something honestly there is no shame in that.As to your problem. I would say keep at it. I would also suggest that you seek out a knowledgable welder to aid you in your learning otherwise you are throwing a fist full of darts at a dart board and hoping to hit a bullseye with all the darts...Burn wire, seek guidance, burn wire, watch welding videos, burn wire, read about welding, burn wire...seeing a pattern here?Best of luck.'Mike
Reply:post pics of your welds skipii
Reply:Hi Skippii,You problem sounds like mine when I first started to weld with a small 110 V AC stick welder.  Search for my posting - "My welds don't stick".My stuff used to fall apart after 'welding'.  My problem was holding the rod tip too far off the base metal - I got a nice looking big arc but the weld metal and black slag was being weakly sprayed onto the base metal.  It looked all full of holes - porosity city... like your photo.  Lucky if I had 15% weld and 85% carbon!I had to force myself to keep the rod tip slightly in touch with the base material all the time... keep jabbing it in (6011) or dragging it (6013, 7014) and Walla, I began getting much better welds - you know real ones that didn't fall apart when removed from the table.Rick V
Reply:Skippi, try practicing on some different materials. You should start on flat plate first; just run a bead in a straight line on some fairly thick material. 3/16" or 1/4". Get to where you can run a stringer in a straight line on flat plate. Then, run a lap joint between 2 flat plates. Bevel the edges, and weld them together. Then, do a T-joint. It does take practice, and what I am seeing you do is trying to learn on material that is not going to help teach you, rather frustrate you.FWIW, I am a terrible stick welder, and it is ALL because I don't practice it. At our shop, we have some incredible stick welders, and I am learning from them. I can hold my own with mig and tig, and we trade what we are good at. Find a guy on Welding Web close to you, and learn from him.And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:Dude...there is no substitute for good tools...HF has some things that are ok...like welders magnets and clamps...if it is electrical...it sucks period.watch craigslist....get yourself a Lincoln AC buzzbox (countless thousands of folks have learned on Lincoln tombstones...)but don't give up...I would think that more guys would say you are using the wrong rod than the wrong equipment. Put the 7014 on the shelf and get some 6011. Compare the two and you will see that there is a large difference in the amount of flux between the two. The more the flux the harder it is to run the rod. 7014 is pretty but not run as the first pass. If that was all I had I would be hard pressed to get a good weld and I have been welding for almost 40 years.I got probably the worst AC welder there is and I weld almost everything with it. AC or DC  6011 for stringer or first pass then 6013. After you master that then try other rods. Just dont be a single pass welder.  Harold
Reply:Originally Posted by Grimm1I've used harbor freight welders. An experienced welder can make them work. But honestly they're a pain. Not the best equipment to learn by yourself on. 1/16 rod is also difficult to run. I would suggest running 3/32 at least for practicing with, maybe even 1/8 if your machine can handle it with 220v. Then work your way down to thinner stuff. As stated already, post your location, some one may be near by that can help you out.I wish I knew how you managed that weld in the other thread. It may not be a good weld, but I see potential as a texturing technique for some of my art work.
Reply:Originally Posted by WHughesThis works,  make a weld on a plate or whatever you are working on and throw it in the corner. Keep practicing and in two weeks compare that piece in the corner with a current one. You will see improvement if you have been practicing.
Reply:Originally Posted by Rick VHi Skippii,You problem sounds like mine when I first started to weld with a small 110 V AC stick welder.  Search for my posting - "My welds don't stick".My stuff used to fall apart after 'welding'.  My problem was holding the rod tip too far off the base metal - I got a nice looking big arc but the weld metal and black slag was being weakly sprayed onto the base metal.  It looked all full of holes - porosity city... like your photo.  Lucky if I had 15% weld and 85% carbon!I had to force myself to keep the rod tip slightly in touch with the base material all the time... keep jabbing it in (6011) or dragging it (6013, 7014) and Walla, I began getting much better welds - you know real ones that didn't fall apart when removed from the table.Rick V
Reply:Originally Posted by RojodiabloSkippi, try practicing on some different materials. You should start on flat plate first; just run a bead in a straight line on some fairly thick material. 3/16" or 1/4". Get to where you can run a stringer in a straight line on flat plate. Then, run a lap joint between 2 flat plates. Bevel the edges, and weld them together. Then, do a T-joint. It does take practice, and what I am seeing you do is trying to learn on material that is not going to help teach you, rather frustrate you.
Reply:I live in Harrisonburg, Virginia, but my welder is in my friend's shed in Clifton Forge, so I do have to drive about 100 miles each way to practice welding (or practice in my bedroom...but that might make me lose my security deposit). If anyone lives anywhere close to the Shenandoah Valley and would be willing to share some of their time teaching me a few things, I couldn't tell you how much I'd appreciate it."To tell which polarity to use go to the bathroom and pour some water down the drain. If it runs clockwise use straight polarity. If it runs counter-clockwise use reverse polarity. Or if it just gurgles use alternating current." -RandomDave
Reply:For sure, every time I tried a new process or technique, I got a little bit better at first, then everything got WORSE. I have NO IDEA WHY. But it is a strange phenomena that has held true throughout my study of welding. Hang in there, because it will get better with time, practice and much faster with instruction one on one by someone already accomplished. Try 6013 yet? I could only run that rod for about ten years of learning on my own...City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:Hey there Skippii.100 miles each way sucks rocks, but you don’t always need a welder to practice stick welding. Here are three “classroom” exercises you can do at the kitchen table. 1.) Get a small flat washer (1/4" or 3/8" should work but it needs to be 1/8" thick or thinner), a clean sheet of paper, and a sharp pencil. Place the flat washer on the paper, put the sharpened end of the pencil in the hole of the flat washer and drag the washer across the paper with the pencil. Do not make a mark on the paper. This exercise is meant to help you control your arc gap. Don't just to it once, do it till your arm gets tired.2.) Get a piece of graph paper (the kind with all the squares) try to find some that has 1/4" squares. Using a welding rod, it doesn't matter what size or type, move across the paper using the squares as a reference. Move forward two squares and back one, forward two and back one, all the way across the paper. This exercise will help you establish a consistent "whip" motion needed for some rods.Practice a weave or half-moon motion moving across one of the lines on the graph paper, using the squares to keep your forward motion uniform. Do this till you get bored, then do it a whole bunch more.3.) this description may get a little tough…… Lets say for clarity that we are talking about your kitchen table but all you really need is the edge of a flat surface that has space below.So here goes. Place a piece of tape on the top of your table, (a piece of graph paper will work too) right at the edge, and mark off six or seven inches. Now with a welding rod "pretend" to strike an arc on the tape at 0" and then place the end of the rod against the side of the table. With the rod lightly touching the side of the table, move it along the tape and continually "feed" it down as if the rod was being consumed by the weld. When you reach the end of the six or seven inches you should have about 1-1/2" to 2" of rod left above the table top. Practice maintaining an even travel and feed speed. If you have more than two inches left at the end, then feed it a little faster or slow down your travel speed. If you have less than 1-1/2" left at the end, then slow down your feed rate or increase your travel speed. Do this till your arm gets tired, then switch arms.When you get good at doing it in a straight line, incorporate the whip/weave motions as you travel/feed the rod. If you really want to get better, put in the time under the hood or any way you can, and you will get better.The next chance you get to run some real beads, run a few on a flat piece of plate, 1/4" if you have it. Just run a few straight stringer beads. Make a note of the type of rod, rod diameter, and amp settings. Take a picture or two then post the info and pics.One last thing. If you type a responce this long, make sure that you are logged in because if you have to log in after it is typed.... you lose it and have do do it all over again    Good luckWill
Reply:Originally Posted by 4on12Hey there Skippii.100 miles each way sucks rocks, but you don’t always need a welder to practice stick welding. Here are three “classroom” exercises you can do at the kitchen table. 1.) Get a small flat washer (1/4" or 3/8" should work but it needs to be 1/8" thick or thinner), a clean sheet of paper, and a sharp pencil. Place the flat washer on the paper, put the sharpened end of the pencil in the hole of the flat washer and drag the washer across the paper with the pencil. Do not make a mark on the paper. This exercise is meant to help you control your arc gap. Don't just to it once, do it till your arm gets tired.2.) Get a piece of graph paper (the kind with all the squares) try to find some that has 1/4" squares. Using a welding rod, it doesn't matter what size or type, move across the paper using the squares as a reference. Move forward two squares and back one, forward two and back one, all the way across the paper. This exercise will help you establish a consistent "whip" motion needed for some rods.Practice a weave or half-moon motion moving across one of the lines on the graph paper, using the squares to keep your forward motion uniform. Do this till you get bored, then do it a whole bunch more.3.) this description may get a little tough…… Lets say for clarity that we are talking about your kitchen table but all you really need is the edge of a flat surface that has space below.So here goes. Place a piece of tape on the top of your table, (a piece of graph paper will work too) right at the edge, and mark off six or seven inches. Now with a welding rod "pretend" to strike an arc on the tape at 0" and then place the end of the rod against the side of the table. With the rod lightly touching the side of the table, move it along the tape and continually "feed" it down as if the rod was being consumed by the weld. When you reach the end of the six or seven inches you should have about 1-1/2" to 2" of rod left above the table top. Practice maintaining an even travel and feed speed. If you have more than two inches left at the end, then feed it a little faster or slow down your travel speed. If you have less than 1-1/2" left at the end, then slow down your feed rate or increase your travel speed. Do this till your arm gets tired, then switch arms.When you get good at doing it in a straight line, incorporate the whip/weave motions as you travel/feed the rod. If you really want to get better, put in the time under the hood or any way you can, and you will get better.The next chance you get to run some real beads, run a few on a flat piece of plate, 1/4" if you have it. Just run a few straight stringer beads. Make a note of the type of rod, rod diameter, and amp settings. Take a picture or two then post the info and pics.One last thing. If you type a responce this long, make sure that you are logged in because if you have to log in after it is typed.... you lose it and have do do it all over again    Good luck
Reply:4on12 has way to much time on his hands. Go find a welding shop and tell them you want to learn to weld and would put in some free hours for some experience. Be sure to take your hood with you as you will probably be put to work. Soon you will be a pro. Harold
Reply:Originally Posted by 4on12One last thing. If you type a responce this long, make sure that you are logged in because if you have to log in after it is typed.... you lose it and have do do it all over again    Good luck
Reply:Better yet, use MS word, and then copy and past.
Reply:Will, Great post.  I too feel my technique needs lots of improvement, but exercise #3 threw me.   Originally Posted by 4on12... 3.) ...Place a piece of tape on the top of your table, (a piece of graph paper will work too) right at the edge, and mark off six or seven inches. Now with a welding rod "pretend" to strike an arc on the tape at 0" and then place the end of the rod against the side of the table. With the rod lightly touching the side of the table, move it along the tape and continually "feed" it down as if the rod was being consumed by the weld. When you reach the end of the six or seven inches you should have about 1-1/2" to 2" of rod left above the table top. Practice maintaining an even travel and feed speed. If you have more than two inches left at the end, then feed it a little faster or slow down your travel speed. If you have less than 1-1/2" left at the end, then slow down your feed rate or increase your travel speed. Do this till your arm gets tired, then switch arms.When you get good at doing it in a straight line, incorporate the whip/weave motions as you travel/feed the rod.
Reply:Originally Posted by zipzitWill, Great post.  I too feel my technique needs lots of improvement, but exercise #3 threw me.  Are you saying your typical burn rate is 6 or 7 inches of travel for 10 or 12" or rod length?   I'm assuming that for 1/8" rod, flat surface straight stringer?Can you give us a feel for the following? (how many inches of travel on steel for a rod's length?)3/32" stringer on flat surface3/32" small weave, say three or four times rod thickness on flat surface3/32" fillet on T joint     <--- I've been doing lots of these, and not very well thank you.  I can only get two t-joint fillets on 1.5" tube with a single rod.  What should I be getting?Many many thanks,zip
Reply:Skippii - if you know anyone that works at the Harrisonburg Barlow powerplant and can get me a tour - I will drive down and spend a half day helping you out!Just another clown trying to be cool
Reply:Originally Posted by jinkzdSkippii - if you know anyone that works at the Harrisonburg Barlow powerplant and can get me a tour - I will drive down and spend a half day helping you out!
Reply:I think you may be strict with yourself, so you think you still stink at welding, in fact, you may be good at welding.lincoln welders
Reply:Wow....this is surprising!Two things: first, I wired up my POS HF 110/240V arc welder to take a 240V circuit, and for the first time ran it at 240. Suddenly, my welds look better!I said "better", not "good"...they still look like something graffiti written on a wall by an epileptic having a seizure. But they look much better!Here's the strange part: I'm now finding it harder to start the arc. I always found it easy to start an arc on 110V, but now it takes quite a few more tries. I thought it would be easier with more current and a higher input voltage. What gives?"To tell which polarity to use go to the bathroom and pour some water down the drain. If it runs clockwise use straight polarity. If it runs counter-clockwise use reverse polarity. Or if it just gurgles use alternating current." -RandomDave
Reply:Finally buying an Auto-Darkening helmet seems to have helped as well!"To tell which polarity to use go to the bathroom and pour some water down the drain. If it runs clockwise use straight polarity. If it runs counter-clockwise use reverse polarity. Or if it just gurgles use alternating current." -RandomDave
Reply:Does 7014 need to be kept in a rod oven like 7018? I think it may and this could contribute to your 'foam'. I am of the opinion that anybody can learn to weld OK if they are dedicated and not half blind. keep at it, take some hands on lessons like others have said and you will get to the point were one coat of paint is enough to cover your work instead of 5 coats and a pound of bondo.