Advice on Backhoe Bucket Repair

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Hi,Was working on the property yesterday with my backhoe. Moving trees and rocks and I suddenly notice that my bucket is cracked. I'm wondering about advice on the best way to fix it?Thanks,Chris. Attached Images
Reply:Carbon arc out the cracks and weld'er back up with some 7018
Reply:If you love burning rod, ya go ahead and weld it up. Gouge out all the cracks and use the machine to push the tooth back into position. Once its bent into position and tacked, put a temporary stiffener of some sort to keep it from warping on the inside. start with a 1/8 rod and weld one side hot as possible without getting too much of an erratic spattery arc, chip and grind it clean and weld a hot pass over that. Then back gouge the other side and weld it hot too, with a hot pass too. Then go to a 5/32 or bigger rod and weld for the rest of the day, rotating and jumping around so often to keep the heat and warpage out of it.I think in this case its time to get a new cutting edge. You can go to a machine/ welding shop and ask for the best stuff they have for a cutting edge. Where I worked we always used QT400. Cut out the old and weld in the new. Preheat it enough to get the moisture out and a bit more than that will always benefit you,Nothing Ever Got Done By Quitting, Never Give Up.
Reply:I'd cut it all out and replace the edge myself. A dealer would have a new cutting edge, but we deal with a supplier who stocks teeth and cutting edges for local quarries and municipalities because they are less expensive than the dealerships.  It's certainly possible to gouge out all the cracks and weld it all back up if this is just for home use. The repair quality would greatly depend on your welding skills however if you piece it all back together. Also what sorts of equipment do you have to do the repair? A small 110v mig  isn't going to cut it for this job. You need at least a 230v stick machine or a good sized 200-250 amp class mig. If you don't think you are qualified to do this, add your location to your User CP at the top left so we know where you are at roughly and I'll bet someone local to you would probably be willing to do the job if need be. Or maybe offer suggestions where you can get the parts at the best prices local..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Thanks for the reply folks.I'll see if I can push the cracked piece back in place with my backhoe and then weld it up. I have a powerful enough stick and mig machine to tackle this but I agree it may make more sense to just get a new cutting edge.I updated my location in my profile (Camas, WA - near Portland, OR) in case anyone knows of a good local source for cutting edges.Thanks,Chris.
Reply:Hi folks,Ended up cutting it all out (with the help of a metal fabricator friend) as DSW suggested and got lucky with a scrap piece of 3/4 - T1 steel. Just cutting out all the teeth, making the grooves in the T1 and welding them back on.I'll post pics when it's done.Cheers,Chris.
Reply:3/4 lol that bucket must be a cute little thing.  The last base edge I did was 2"Bruce DeLaetHeavy Equipment Mechanic and Welder1948 SA-200 short hood1949 LincWelder 1801963 SA-200 red faceMiller S-32-P
Reply:crudolphWhen you reattach the ripper shanks, don't weld to the toe of the cutting-edge, top nor bottom.Hold the weld back to/near the break-line of the slope, both sides.This will reduce 'the dreaded stress-riser' from-which your first edge tore.Opus
Reply:I would call Genalco and get the whole lip with shanks, usually costs less than fixing the mangled one.Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:Originally Posted by TozziWeldingI would call Genalco and get the whole lip with shanks, usually costs less than fixing the mangled one.