Advise needed, design receiver mount for trailer tongue.

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I built this trailer about 15 years ago for my race car.  It isn't the greatest design, but it has held up well.  I now want to mount a 10,000 pound winch using a receiver mount on the tongue.  I would like some advice on a safe design, instead of my usual trial and error approach..lolThanks,Rick Attached Images
Reply:Why such a big winch? It looks like a pretty light duty trlr. with no brakes. Would a boat winch (hand crank) work for you?
Reply:Originally Posted by rustyironWhy such a big winch? It looks like a pretty light duty trlr. with no brakes. Would a boat winch (hand crank) work for you?
Reply:I would weld a cross tube across the trailer tongue and than build the mount off of that you might have to move your jack depending  on where exactly you want the winch.Millermatic 252millermatic 175miller 300 Thunderboltlincoln ranger 250smith torcheslots of bfh'sIf it dont fit get a bigger hammer
Reply:Definately consider 1/2" plate to bold the winch down on.  It looks like your trailer is made using 3" channel.  I'd use 3" channel and 1/2" gussets to brace the 1/2" plate in as many points as possible.  Use the "when in doubt, go stout" way of thinking.  Double pass your welds and you should be good to go.
Reply:I made a mount for a scrapper, for 4,000#--actual pull force,  back geared, hand crank winchto do the same thing you're intending--pulling up cars that can't roll onto trailer bed. This workedwell in service.The winch bottom needs to elevated a good 2' or more above the bed,  to allow for cable clearance on the bed, minimum drag on the bed--especially when vehicle's not on the trailer ramps. Suggest you check this factor out-first.Blackbird
Reply:Originally Posted by dave powelsonThe winch bottom needs to elevated a good 2' or more above the bed,  to allow for cable clearance on the bed, minimum drag on the bed--especially when vehicle's not on the trailer ramps. Suggest you check this factor out-first.
Reply:Easy,Just check out the winch stands used on boat trailers.Build it so it sits lower on the tongue.  Bolt on a Powerwinch and you're set.I agree on the comments about it being a rather "light duty" trailer. (No sign of surge or electric brakes).  You don't need a 10,000 pound winch on that thing.  Rolling/skid loads are very different from "lifting loads".Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Originally Posted by SundownIIIEasy,Just check out the winch stands used on boat trailers.Build it so it sits lower on the tongue.  Bolt on a Powerwinch and you're set.I agree on the comments about it being a rather "light duty" trailer. (No sign of surge or electric brakes).  You don't need a 10,000 pound winch on that thing.  Rolling/skid loads are very different from "lifting loads".
Reply:Yup! That 3" channel frame  shown will only tolerate so much strain froma heavy winch pull. The trailer I mounted the winch on had a much stouter frame.Blackbird
Reply:Originally Posted by rickou812I have been using it to haul cars for scrap and pulling them up on the trailer with a come along is really starting to suck...especially when the damn wheels wont turn So no, I do not want a hand winch of any kind..tired of that sh!t..lol
Reply:Originally Posted by rickou812Just using the 10.000 winch that I already have on a hitch mount...not that it is what is needed.
Reply:Originally Posted by turnerHmmm, If you already have the winch setup for a receiver, why not just use a dual hitch receiver (trailer on the bottom, winch on top)?  then you don't have to worry about mounting the winch to the trailer at all. Just work out a stand arrangement for you roller fairlead.