Welding Table Suggestions Needed

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I've got a section of warehouse rack that I'm going to make into a work table for working outside the shop. I've already got a large bench in the shop.The picture shows what the existing frame is as it sets. The frame is .25x3.5x3.5 square tube.Initial thoughts are to add a top to the section over the legs. Maybe some type of shelving under the the top?The overhang section is where I need some ideas. Seems like it should be handy for something rather then just cut it off. Maybe some type of grating section for plasma cutting? Throw some ideas my way.Al Attached ImagesA man is judged by what's between his legs...always ride a good horseMiller DialArc HFLincoln Classic 300DThermal Arc 181iPowermax 45Scotchman Ironworker(2) BridgeportsOkomota Surface GrinderAutoCAD 2010
Reply:You are going to need some type of stretcher between the front/back legs & L/R legs.  A shelf is just begging to be put there.The overhang needs supported on the end & if you choose to put in a grate for torch/plasma work, you would only need one leg in the middle of the outside overhang.  Then a couple gussets to the leg to prevent collapse.Free metal is always nice to build with.MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:I would definately make the overhang into a down draft grate and do all or most of my cutting on it.  Like mark said earlier you will nee to add some reinforcement into the leg structure but with the fairly large and thick square tubing it should hold a one inch thick top easily.  I would include some reciever type mounts on all 4 corners to allow for grinders and benders that can be removed easily and taken back inside.  I would also bore some holes in an X pattern to allow for using hold down clamps like the stronhold and high end tables like Jessie James has.   A Door grate is pretty easy to find and makes an excellent plasma and torch cutting grate and can be gotten from most building supplies and contractor supplies.  It will save time and be easilly replaceable when it gets damaged and worn out.  Just a few thoughts to help you on your way...BobI'm spending my Kids inheritance, I dont like him that much anyway!!!!!!Enuff tools to do the job, enough sense to use em.Anybody got a spare set of kidneys?  Trade?
Reply:Originally Posted by SmokinPRanchI've got a section of warehouse rack that I'm going to make into a work table for working outside the shop. I've already got a large bench in the shop.The picture shows what the existing frame is as it sets. The frame is .25x3.5x3.5 square tube.Initial thoughts are to add a top to the section over the legs. Maybe some type of shelving under the the top?The overhang section is where I need some ideas. Seems like it should be handy for something rather then just cut it off. Maybe some type of grating section for plasma cutting? Throw some ideas my way.Al
Reply:Thanks for the input guys.Free materials are always within my price range.  Fortunately, I work for a company that scraps out every so often and don't see all the potentials. I've used these warehouse sections for making fence corners, a tractor drag and my indoor bench. Had this section out at the edge of the property waiting to be revived. I definitely need the 3rd leg. Already got the stock rough cut for it. I'm liking the idea of a cutting section. Seems individual slats, like on a Torchmate table, would work pretty well and be able to be removed if needed. I hadn't considered a down draft system but seems that the table being outdoors it would be fairly easy to set up. Have to start scouting around for a blower. I've got some 3' angle and a sheet of 1/8" that should make a good shelf section for stuff that can stay outside. I'll sink some tubing or pipe into the rails for attachments. Got them on my indoor bench and they sure are handy. Being able to slip them out and bring in will be invaluable. I'll try to keep it updated as things start to take shape.AlA man is judged by what's between his legs...always ride a good horseMiller DialArc HFLincoln Classic 300DThermal Arc 181iPowermax 45Scotchman Ironworker(2) BridgeportsOkomota Surface GrinderAutoCAD 2010
Reply:Here's a picture of the rack that is being turned into a fab/welding table for outside the shop.The piece of square is the leg I welded on yesterday as per recommendations. Also got some angle iron welded in place for a shelf.I got (4) 2 3/8" holes drilled to weld in some 2" sch. 80 pipe for tool attachments. Got them on my indoor bench and they work good with 1 1/2" pipe inserts. I'm thinking of welding a couple of pieces of the 3 1/2" square in a couple of the corners for 3" square inserts.Still undecided on the cutting section. Thinking about using 5/8 or 3/4 rebar for the cutting grate.Kind of want something removable and easy to replace pieces as they become cut up. The sheet of 1/8 plate on top is just being stored there. Might use some of it for the shelf. Still have to get a suitable top plate for a working surface.Al Attached ImagesA man is judged by what's between his legs...always ride a good horseMiller DialArc HFLincoln Classic 300DThermal Arc 181iPowermax 45Scotchman Ironworker(2) BridgeportsOkomota Surface GrinderAutoCAD 2010
Reply:Got a little more done on the table last few days in between raindrops here. The drawing shows pretty much how it is now. Iso and top views. The blue extensions are 2" sch 80 pipe with clamping bolts for tool and fixture attachments. The orange pieces in the corners are 3 1/2" 1/4" wall tubing to accept 3" tubing...not sure I'll ever use it but had the scraps.Shelf will be below work table. Still haven't got the working top yet...have to call a buddy that owns a scrap yard to see if he has any suitable plate laying around. Still need some thoughts on the cutting section. As drawn it is 3/4" rebar spaced at 3" c-c. Not sure how rebar will work or if it is the best way to go. Does 3" spacing sound about right? Also need a way to set it so it is secure yet able to replace sections as they get cut up.Al Attached ImagesA man is judged by what's between his legs...always ride a good horseMiller DialArc HFLincoln Classic 300DThermal Arc 181iPowermax 45Scotchman Ironworker(2) BridgeportsOkomota Surface GrinderAutoCAD 2010
Reply:How about welding the ends to angle iron, 3 rebar to a section of angle.  Then you can replace just the section that gets dinged/cut up.I think 2" spacing would be better.  Maybe a short piece between the rebar to form a checkerboard?MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:That's kinda what I was thinking. I guess if I try the rebar it's cheap enough to do some experimenting. Hopefully get some time and decent weather to get a little more done next few days. AlA man is judged by what's between his legs...always ride a good horseMiller DialArc HFLincoln Classic 300DThermal Arc 181iPowermax 45Scotchman Ironworker(2) BridgeportsOkomota Surface GrinderAutoCAD 2010
Reply:Little more done on the table. Fabricated a removable cutting grid from angle and rebar. Ended up with about 2- 9/16 spacing on the rebars as thats what 18 of them came out on the cad. The 2" sch. 80 and 3 1/2" squares are welded in place for tools and fixtures. Got the lower shelf frame welded in place but haven't fab'd a shelf yet. Still need to procure a working top for it. Sure needs some wire brushing and paint too...hate that part. But for right now it's partially useable. Al Attached ImagesA man is judged by what's between his legs...always ride a good horseMiller DialArc HFLincoln Classic 300DThermal Arc 181iPowermax 45Scotchman Ironworker(2) BridgeportsOkomota Surface GrinderAutoCAD 2010