Mild steel to stainless

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I have a project I'm working on.  A vertical cabinet style smoker made out of an old stainless steel wheel chair washing machine.  I have to cut it down depth wise, so I'll have extra stainless left over to line it with.I'm going to insulate the firebox with 2" of ceramic mat & want to build my firebox out of 1/4" mild steel.  Then I'm going to line the upper cook chamber with left over stainless over a 1" layer of the ceramic mat.  To stiffen the cook chamber, I want to weld mild steel angle to the inner lining, then weld the stainless in the corners.  When done it will be airtight with a all stainless interior.My question is do I need to use 304 wire to weld the mild to stainless or will regular wire work?  I know I have to use Tri-mix for gas, so I'm already going to be getting wire & another bottle of gas.The firebox being made out of mild steel, will it cause any problems?  Specifically I'm worried about corrosion eating through the bottom/sides or other stainless areas.  Also I figure the 1" insulation on the cook chamber should be enough to prevent burns if someone brushes up against it & the firebox of 2" will help prevent burns also.I'm gonna go through a whole bunch of grinder cut off discs!!!!!MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:tig welding ss to ms use 309
Reply:Welding those 2 metals together should be done with 309 or 309L. But the other question is what type of SS are you using? 309 will easily join to mild steel with 309 filler but other SS makes, although they will join are not well suited for this application, they will be very prone to cracking and fatiguing and can suffer a loss of corrosion resistant properties especially under heat. But you also have to consider the case. This isn't for some high end client who wants to purchase multiple numbers of these things, its for you to use and something show everyone that you built so I wouldn't worry to much about this thing falling apart as long as the welds are good its not going to be looked over by a QC guy, so just go do your thing and good luck..
Reply:Nope, not a high end smoker, I'm building it because I want a bigger smoker.That said, I have no idea what kind of stainless it's made out of.  Just big flat sheets bent into a "U" then capped with another stainless top.  It measures about 30" wide, x 48" deep x ~50" high.  Has a big door on one end & a pump housed outside the internal "wash area".Here's what I'm working with:  http://www.medcoequipment.com/images/mpwasher2.jpgI also don't have a TIG welder, only 2 MIG's.  Both 220volt, one is set up with .024 solid wire, the other with .030 solid wire.  I can get .024 solid wire in 309 or 309L & can get the tri-mix locally.  I'm also thinking about making the racks in the cooking chamber slide out so I can pressure wash it.  But I'll make that out of stainless.Expensive toy, but big enough to feed several hungry mouths if need be.  Maybe I'll start a vending business.............MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:In a perfect world, you'd use the 309 filler. But if you are low budget on it, the er70s-2 filler is a little better choice. Yes, it will rust(Hog fat drippings make a great coating to stop that!!) and the SS filler might be more prone to cracking/ brittlement after the welding and many heating cycles. I like SS filler for adding SS cleats, rings, etc. to regular steel, but for highly heated, you will be better served by the standard filler.And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:Well, I knew I could use the standard wire, but didn't know if the 309 wire would be better?  These machines don't run with much water pressure inside them, but do have hot (180*) water when washing the wheelchairs.  Very similar to a dishwasher in heating the water.I doubt it will see much over 300*, unless it does a load of chicken/turkey, then it might go as high as 350*.  Mostly it will be running in the 225-250* range.  And on charcoal.  Maybe I'll install a LP gas log to light all that charcoal...........MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:If the cost of a spool of 309 doesn't bug you, it's the right choice. It's also good for joining unknown materials together of steel nature, and it works fine on SS to SS joints, of most any grade.And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:I figure I only need about a 2# spool & a 40cf of Tri-mix.  Most of the fabrication will be bending the left over stainless & building the removable rack.  The fire box will be mild steel, so I can weld that with what I have.  The price of even a 10# spool of 309, is cheap compared to the rest of the steel I have to get.MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:Originally Posted by MarkBall2I'm gonna go through a whole bunch of grinder cut off discs!!!!!
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55Need to get you one of those fancy HD flat screen plasma cuttin' thingies.How long does it take to tenderized that chair?Should be fun and interesting build.
Reply:Mark, you can weld it with the same old wire and gas you already have and it will be fine...if it cracks, so what?...its in your backyard and you still have a welder...I dont think it will crack...it just wont be rust proof where you weld it, but half of it will be m/s so who cares, right?
Reply:Originally Posted by MarkBall2..............I've drawn up some plans, but not sure how deep I want to make it.  I'm leaning toward 24" deep x 28" wide inside the cook chamber.  Then have 5 or 6 racks.  Can do a bunch of ribs on that many racks.  Can't post a pic of the drawing, I made it on my 14x24" paper drawing board.
Reply:I just Googled 30" Replacement oven racks & got a lot of hits.  Looks like the average price is about $38-40.00.  I don't see why it wouldn't work, although I'm going to build my own racks.MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:Originally Posted by TEKMark, you can weld it with the same old wire and gas you already have and it will be fine...if it cracks, so what?...its in your backyard and you still have a welder...I dont think it will crack...it just wont be rust proof where you weld it, but half of it will be m/s so who cares, right?
Reply:X3 I did 20 ga ss to 16 ga cs in my smoker and it's just fine.Last edited by pileobones; 04-05-2010 at 10:34 AM.CWB InspectorRed Seal B PressureArguing with an Inspector is like mudwrestling with a Pig.After a while you realize the Pig likes it.
Reply:Well Mark, if the item is a Medco, then just call Medco and -ask- them what grade stainless it is made of.  Next, smoke and moisture combination can be rather corrosive.  Your call as to how much rebuild you want to do because of corrosion.  Or how much you want to brag and show off all that clean and shiny stainless steel.  To me, rusty welds on stainless steel aren't bragging material.   As said, the 'standard' filler for joining mild steel to low-mid grade stainless is 309/309L.Your call.  Me?  I'd probably call Medco and find out what grade stainless they use, and then probably use 309/309L if is compatible with the Medco stainless.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Next, smoke and moisture combination can be rather corrosive.  Your call as to how much rebuild you want to do because of corrosion.  Or how much you want to brag and show off all that clean and shiny stainless steel.  To me, rusty welds on stainless steel aren't bragging material.   Yep the rust and corrosion is devastating.   Clean and shiny? He's building a smoker that will be coated with grease. DUHCWB InspectorRed Seal B PressureArguing with an Inspector is like mudwrestling with a Pig.After a while you realize the Pig likes it.
Reply:I can tell you right off the bat that the original material is almost certainly 316 or maybe 304.  309 is the proper filler.shouldn't crack unless it gets contaminated badly and hot cracks, or you're trying to join it to a high carbon steel. used to build smokers when i worked for a restaurant appliance company. We tigged the whole thing. but 304 and 316 always got us there. I also used to work for a company that made industrial equipment such as wheel chair cleaners. and again at the temperatures those see it's probably made out of 316, but maybe 304 if they are cheap.Should be cake work.  Good luck keeping it clean though.Welding EngineerCertified Scrap Producer
Reply:Originally Posted by MoonRise To me, rusty welds on stainless steel aren't bragging material.   .
Reply:I want to build an interior frame from mild steel, the firebox from mild steel, then line the inside frame with left over Stainless from the cut off end of the washing machine.  That way it will be stainless inside & outside.The firebox will be permanently mounted in the base, I'll have a rack that can be slid out by unbolting about 4 bolts, then pressure wash the rack off if needed.I'll try to draw up a smaller drawing & post it so guys can get an idea of what I'm talking about.MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:I know he will have some parts stainless and some parts mild steel.  He's also going to be welding a bunch of stainless to stainless.But he also said he was going to pressure wash the inside of the food compartment, so that tells me he wants to keep it sort-of clean.    And carbonized grease on a grill/smoker doesn't really bother me, but rust is not really GoodEats to me.  And unless you are vaporizing a whole lot more pork or beef fat than I have managed to so far,  the food compartment will not likely get a nice thick black carbonized coating all over it.  And he did mention putting some rack guides/supports in there.So since he has to get some stainless filler wire anyway, why not just use that instead of swapping filler/machines all the time.  It's just a one-off and not a production run where pennies of filler wire matter to the bean counters.    I usually try to make things look nice.  To me that means stainless filler if welding stainless or to stainless.  YMMV.  I'm personally tired of replacing plain steel parts in my gas BBQ (not a smoker, just a Weber  at this time), so I've gone to stainless for things I can buy or make as the replacements.  The plain steel just doesn't hold up all that well.  For me.I did say "Your call".    And mentioned my preference for just using stainless and the stainless filler.metarinka, I would have guessed 304 or possible 316 as well.  Since the temperature/spec listing on the Medco page just says it uses hot tap water and doesn't heat it any (unless there was a model/option that I missed seeing on my quick check of the website), the operating temperature of the unit is most likely down in the low to mid 100's anyway (hot tap water of 120-160F degree approx, dumping into the steel box and with a room temperature or thereabouts wheelchair stuck into it makes me think that the 'machine' was probably only made for a service temperature of maybe 150F max, the valve/fittings for the incoming hot water maybe rated a little higher than than).  But since Mark mentioned who the manufacturer was, I figured he could just call or email them and ask.    The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Originally Posted by MoonRiseI know he will have some parts stainless and some parts mild steel.  He's also going to be welding a bunch of stainless to stainless.But he also said he was going to pressure wash the inside of the food compartment, so that tells me he wants to keep it sort-of clean.    And carbonized grease on a grill/smoker doesn't really bother me, but rust is not really GoodEats to me.  And unless you are vaporizing a whole lot more pork or beef fat than I have managed to so far,  the food compartment will not likely get a nice thick black carbonized coating all over it.  And he did mention putting some rack guides/supports in there.So since he has to get some stainless filler wire anyway, why not just use that instead of swapping filler/machines all the time.  It's just a one-off and not a production run where pennies of filler wire matter to the bean counters.    I usually try to make things look nice.  To me that means stainless filler if welding stainless or to stainless.  YMMV.
Reply:Figured I'd post up a crude drawing of what I'm doing.The inside will be lined with stainless as the washer cabinet measures 34" wide x 53" tall x 48" deep.  I have to cut it down to an interior size of 24", which will leave me about 23" left over for side walls & full width rear wall.I plan on 1" ceramic wool insulation in the cook chamber & 2" surrounding the firebox sides & bottom.  No insulation will be on the top of the fire box, so the heat will radiate off the top of it.  I am going to put a "drip pan" over it, so most of the grease won't be baked on too badly.I also have to cut the door into 3 separate pieces.  I'm going to split the cook chamber door vertically & make the firebox door a single door with 6 one inch air inlets.  That way I can seal it making it air tight & control the heat inside it.Anyway, here you get an idea of what it looks like.  I will adjust measurements as I start building it. Attached ImagesMarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:Ok, finally got off my butt & went outside to start stripping down the wheelchair washer.  Most of it came out fairly easy & I figured out why it quit working.  First off the screens to the intakes were all clogged, including the ones inside the inlet/outlet pipes, the pump is frozen & it's full of crud down in the sump.Anyway, figured you guys might like to see what I'm working with.  I'm going to cut it to 24.25" deep, which is a touch under half the depth.  Then I'll build a firebox out of 1/4" steel & insulate the daylights out of it (2" insulation from McMaster).  Once that's done, I'll build an interior box out of the left over stainless to slide inside the cabinet for the cook chamber.  The cook chamber will have 2" insulation between the walls also, so it shouldn't be too hot to the touch.I'm going to build it slow, so don't expect this to be done over a weekend.  Although if I had all the parts, I could build it over a weekend.  But have to wait for a paying gig, before spending the money for stainless angle.Here goes, several posts of pictures:  Notice the backside, that's where all the weight was.  2 pumps, one is a 1hp, the other is just a lift pump for chemicals. Attached ImagesMarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:So, I took some more pictures of the inner workings of the pump/controls.  There were a lot of controls there.  Stuff I ain't never seen before, but it all had to come out.  The cabinet is welded onto the backside of the washer cabinet.  The pump cabinet is open in the back with just a turned edge about 3/8" wide.  I can grind out the welds & it will drop right off.More pictures:  The last two are of the 1hp pump. Attached ImagesMarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate BuildNow the inside of the wash chamber had to have the pipe stripped out of it.  It was 3/4" grey hard plastic.  I used my plastic pipe cutter & just cut it out.  I kept it because it has some jets I might need for another project, so won't throw away the jets.Here ya go:  The last two show the air vents that were covered with a louvered panel.  I might leave those in place, instead of welding them up to help allow the outside skin stay cool. Attached ImagesMarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:And all that's left over from the strip down less the 1hp pump, it's in the garage.  Nuttin but a pile of parts. Attached ImagesMarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:I seem to recall something in the Bible about "buttering" dissimilar metals before using stainless filler, but it probably doesn't apply to your situation.And it's too late in the evening to drag the book out"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:I'll use 309L wire for the inner cabinet to fire box welds, 304 to weld the rest of the stainless to each other.  That's what was recommended on the Lincoln site.  The stainless steel is 304 .062 thick.  This stuff is stiff as all get out too.  I'll be sure to test on some scrap pieces before I do much welding on the cabinet.If you have any better ideas, I'm all eyes (not ears, 'cause the laptop has no volume)MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:Ok, got a bit more done today. I needed to take the back cabinet off the wheel chair washer, so I broke out the 4 1/2" grinder with a cut off wheel on it. A bunch of TIG welds later (and a shelf that had been welded in after it was built) the rear cabinet is off.I trimmed off most of the studs that were left over & got to looking closer at the way it was made. Come to find out, the back panel of the washer was just overlaid onto the sides. About 5 TIG welds, cut the corners & the panel lifted right off. It's the same size as the rear cabinet too. I really like using this 4 1/2" cut off wheel!I also secured the 2nd pump from the rear cabinet. It was bolted on through the bottom of the cabinet, so I waited to remove it, until I had the rear cabinet off.Anyway, figured you might enjoy a few more pictures.Pic 1 - Cabinet removed & against the wall of the housePic 2 - Rear of washing machine - without the control/pump cabinetPic 3 - 2nd pump recoveredPic 4 - Dataplate on 2nd pumpPic 5 - Rear panel of washing cabinet up against the wall............ Attached ImagesMarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:Here are the rest of the pics of the smoker cabinet with the back panel removed. I stopped as the neighborhood kids were home from school & parents would be getting home from work. No need to upset the neighbors with all the cutting with that noisy cut off grinder. I hope to have it all cut by this weekend, as I'm due to start teaching a class Monday in Parker AZ for 6 weeks.Pic 1 - Front view with rear panel taken offPic 2 - Rear view with rear panel off Attached ImagesMarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:It's BIG! sheesh, feed small army... ok I will get crackin' on feeding the goats, especially BBQ, he'll get xtra pellets.Nice project, I will follow and see it come to something nice for you. BretU guys ever been to Parker strip iin the spring??? teeheheLincoln Power MIG 215Lincoln WeldPak 3200HDLincon ProCut 25Lincoln WeldanPower 225 AC/DCIf all else fails... buy more tools
Reply:Well, if I have the cook chamber calculated correctly, it should hold close to 100 lbs of meat.  Not a whole hog, unless it was hung up, but with 5 racks, at 20 lbs of meat.......  I'll be eating good for a while.  Would be ok to try different recipe's too.  Haven't et goat before, might have to try it someday.I'm also re-thinking the stainless interior also.  It would be much easier to build a cabinet/firebox out of mild steel as one piece, then slide it in through the back with the insulation.  I'll probably figure out what I want to do as I get closer to building that part of it.  First I have to cut into two large pieces & I don't have time tomorrow.  Hopefully it will be cut in two by the weekend.  Which reminds me, I have to stop & get more cut-off wheels tomorrow.  I went through one today, but it was mostly welds I was cutting.MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:I've been teaching classes in Parker AZ, so haven't done much with it other than just split it in two.  I decided to cut it at 25.25" deep & cut out the top of the cabinet door.Here's the beginning of the cut............This one is with it split in two............I happen to have a few left over parts again...........And I laid it down to cut out the cabinet door frame at the top.  It had a box welded in the front of it for the push buttons & idiot lights.  I made it so it would all be 2" for insulation............And here is another look at it cut & standing upright again.................I'll get to order the steel for the inside this weekend & possibly start welding it up next week.  I'm almost finished with teaching this Medical Assistant course (next Wed) and can start in welding stuff.  I went to Cave Creek a couple weeks ago & picked up a welding table a guy was going to toss out.  I'll also pick up some thicker steel for a new table top.  Then I'll have it up off the garage floor to work on it.  I've ordered 3/16" steel for the firebox & angle iron for the framework.  It's going to be lined (cook chamber) with left over stainless from the cut off portion of the cabinet.MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:Just had a thought & questioned my own thinking.309L stainless MIG wire, but what diameter would be best for this stainless?  It's .062 thick.  I'm leaning toward .023 wire diameter, rather than 0.030 diameter.  Reason why, is it's thin enough I can get a good weld using the .023 diameter & it will also weld stainless 1/8" angle to the stainless.  I'm hoping I can get stainless square tubing & stainless expanded metal locally sourced, but might end up with mild steel for the racks.I have a Lincoln SP 175 Plus that has a really soft arc compared to my HH 175, so was thinking of using it with the smaller wire to make sure I don't burn through.  Me & think sheetmetal don't get along real well, burn through is a problem for me.  I'm thinking of stitching welding this together (short beads no more than 1" long) and skipping around to control the heat.  The soft arc might work in my favor this way.I'm open to idea's, as this will be the first time I've welded stainless.MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:Originally Posted by MarkBall2Just had a thought & questioned my own thinking.309L stainless MIG wire, but what diameter would be best for this stainless?  It's .062 thick.  I'm leaning toward .023 wire diameter, rather than 0.030 diameter.  Reason why, is it's thin enough I can get a good weld using the .023 diameter & it will also weld stainless 1/8" angle to the stainless.  I'm hoping I can get stainless square tubing & stainless expanded metal locally sourced, but might end up with mild steel for the racks.I have a Lincoln SP 175 Plus that has a really soft arc compared to my HH 175, so was thinking of using it with the smaller wire to make sure I don't burn through.  Me & think sheetmetal don't get along real well, burn through is a problem for me.  I'm thinking of stitching welding this together (short beads no more than 1" long) and skipping around to control the heat.  The soft arc might work in my favor this way.I'm open to idea's, as this will be the first time I've welded stainless.
Reply:The back side won't really matter as it will be outside the cook chamber.  Plus most of the welds will be fillet welds in the corners that are supported with angle on the back side.Grinder on the landings of the welds is good advice.  I had forgotten that.  I'll experiment on some small pieces of scrap first.  Once the heat settings are right, I should be ok with a shorter weld bead.  If I have to, I may just do like autobody people do & tack, tack, tack.  We shall see what works best.Thanks Rojo.MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:If you are using a 110 wire feed welder and you think you will get trimix gas and stainless wire and do it - I have news for you....It won't work very well at all.The trimix gas is very expensive too.If you think you will just do it anyway and you think I don't  know what I am talking about, when you get it all set up and it does not work you can turn the knobs all the way up and the best you will do on very thin stainless is a weld that looks like toothpaste coming out of a tube and you have to move VERY fast. Oh ....one more thing the diameter of that stainless wire for GMAW has to be very small.It is a real waste of time.220V wire feed ???? Maybe a better result I am sure.Stainless to steel use #309 or 309LAWS certified welding inspectorAWS certified welder
Reply:The welder's are both 220V.  I was going to use .023, 309L wire - unless I get better guidance for using .030 sized wire.Lincoln manual says I could us 75/25, but I've read on here the tri-mix is better & can use less heat.  With this thin stuff, I'm betting I need the tri-mix.MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:3/32" Stainless Steel ARC rods are the right choice if you ask me. They flow like melted butter on warm rolls. And they bond steel to stainless rather nicely. I wouldn't if it was structural, but for a smoker I would do it with a stick welder.        Sincerely,             William McCormick
Reply:Thanks William, but I don't have a stick welder.  Both are wire welders.MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:Then I would probably use the fattest wire you can get for the MIG, and straight Argon.0.035 is probably the fattest you can run. Straight down no push, no drag, no side to side. Just let it heat up, burn some wire at the start, and move along at a monotonous pace. You have to be exactly on the joint to be welded. You cannot wander or you will not penetrate. Stainless Steel needs time to heat up. The weld will be raised and a little like bubble gum. But Ok for a smoker or low pressure air duct. Unless you have some kind of pulse system. That can deliver more amps to the work piece. But a regular MIG, will penetrate anything less then 1/16". But you can just penetrate 1/16" material. I tried it with 98/2 gas as well, I did not like the deposits it created and the color of the weld. I believe I mixed helium and Argon myself, but I did not like that much better. There is too much surface heat already. No penetration.        Sincerely,             William McCormick