Welding Table Design Questions/Suggestions

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I've been doing some research on welding tables and found a few designs I like (with some mods), so I'm custom designing a welding table in sketchup.I had a few questions about the design, because I know i haven't considered everything.I have limited space in the garage, so I would probably do something that is 3'x6' on top, and something like 48" tall (I'm 6'3")1) I plan on bolting the top to the frame, as I've heard this helps prevent warping.2) I'm thinking of adding drawers. Any drawbacks to using wood as opposed to all metal for the drawers? The drawers would be right under the top of the plate.3) How thick should the plate for the top be?4) I'd like it to be mobile, so I'll use some castors. Any recommendations on some good locking castors. Obviously, the table will be pretty heavy, so it'll need to support some weight.5) I plan on using the top level for welding, a bench grinder, and a heavy duty vise. 6) The lower level will be used for storage, and may hold the welder if I give up the welding cart.7) Should I add any unique contours or features to the design to make it easier to work around?8) What recommendations do you guys have for the legs (thickness of some square tubing)?9) I plan on adding a few outlets (2 x 2) on each side of the table mounted to the legs for powering the 110 equipment. My welder runs off a 220 connection, so I'll have to extend the cable for that as this table will be located away from any walls in the center of the garage. Haven't figured out that part yet. 10) An overhead spot light for the table.Any other features I should think about adding that I haven't thought of?Last edited by jdlev; 01-16-2013 at 02:29 PM.
Reply:http://www.millerwelds.com/interests...ab7c121b91.pdfJust scale it down to your 3x6 top but it has the material list for a 3/8" Top and the tubing size for the base.I didn't need the Cutting section so I left it out when I made mine.Just tack the top to the frame and you won't have any warping- you don't need to weld the top to the frame all around as that will certainly warp it.http://www.castercity.comEd Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:build in some hooks to hang stuff on. Especially if you are storing your welder on it.
Reply:I'd discourage the use of flammable materials built into your welding table. You can be careful as all get out but sparks and cherries will find anything in reach that will burn. I even set fire to the power cords of my grinders on the bottom shelf of mine before.
Reply:Originally Posted by Broccoli1http://www.millerwelds.com/interests...ab7c121b91.pdfJust scale it down to your 3x6 top but it has the material list for a 3/8" Top and the tubing size for the base.
Reply:There was a thread started yesterday and I said: Originally Posted by zekeMake it as thick as you can afford. But, as you weld up the table, check your surface as you go if you're looking to make a reference table. Thinner material with underbracing can get all out of shape and it might just be better to have some 1/2" or better to start with.Make sure you check out the scrap yards before you plunk down for new. But, take a straight edge.
Reply:Originally Posted by REDONEI'd discourage the use of flammable materials built into your welding table. You can be careful as all get out but sparks and cherries will find anything in reach that will burn. I even set fire to the power cords of my grinders on the bottom shelf of mine before.
Reply:I built That miller table. My top warped a good 3/8 on the side of the chute. I rarely use the plate chute was a stupid idea. If to so it Again I would add diagonals and and some level of support down the middle. Having a crooked welding table is aweful. And not its impossible to fix. Next one I build will have something massive for support and simply not allow warping. Even if I have to do a grid from ibeams
Reply:Hmmm.. I'm in a different place with the wooden drawer.  I have one and it works well. With overhang and 3/4" top I see no fire issue here, at least for the type of things I'm welding.  Lessons learned:  I designed my table for storage of tools AND my old AC/DC transformer welder. Table top is 36x22".  Table top is 37" from ground (originally designed for standing up doing arc welding projects).  Drawer is 4-1/4" tall.  After I built the table I got a TIG machine and realized I no longer need the transformer.  So the bottom shelf supports are now in the way.  I can use a stool, place my pedal foot inside the center and it works, its sorta clumsy.  I should probably cut away the front bar and repaint, but I'm just not that motivated.  Good things: --Single drawer for storage.  Drawer is made from 3/4" birch plywood, rides on two rails (old garage door opener track)  See photo.  --Vertical receiver for vise.  The top of the receiver sits well below table top.--Top is 3/4" thick tapped for 7/16" bolts. Holes NOT thru drilled.--Table is on wheels.--Neat little storage clamp for the TIG torch from a girder grounding clamp.Not such a good idea.  Putting the grinder on the same table is a major pain.  The problem is the grinder makes lots of dirt / mess and I want the table clean when I'm welding.  Much rather have grinder set up somewhere distant for sharpening tungstens.  #1 recommendation is get the overall dimensions right.  If you are going to sit at the table for TIG work, and its got a lower height, then a drawer will be in the way.  If I had to lower my table to sit in a office chair instead of a stool, then the drawer would have to go.  Obviously if you are going to sit at the table you don't want a lower shelf either.Good luck with it, Zip. Attached ImagesLast edited by zipzit; 01-17-2013 at 02:11 AM.
Reply:jdlev,You can check out my post "another welding table" for the table I built.  It was my first welding project and I am very happy with it. I bolted the table to the frame I built, and used 3/16" square tube on the frame, except for the lower portion of the cross supports (more specs in the video description on YouTube), where I used 1/4."http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=186911The casters I used are adjustable for height. They roll over bumps easily and are rated at 1650 pounds each (GD100S). When I get the table where I want it (usually most level place I can find), I can then adjust the center piece that lifts the wheels up off the floor and helps me level the table. CaKress Products, LLC, had the best price, quick shipping, and GREAT customer service! www.casterstore.com 585-671-2220.I went with a 1" top.  Very happy I did!  It was quite a task to work with, but proved to be worth the effort.  The table is very easy to move around in my garage.  I don't recommend wiring your table with 220V outlets to power your welder.  I like having my welder plugged in away from the table, makes working around the table on projects less cluttered.  Same with grinding.Also check out the video in my signature.Last edited by Gar; 01-17-2013 at 02:25 AM.Reason: Added more detail to specs.Lincoln Electric, Power MIG 256Hypertherm Powermax 45 Miller Dynasty 280DXSmith O/A torchGenesis of a welding table
Reply:Gar & Zipzit...those are AWESOME looking tables.  Very impressive...might have to change plans   What do you think the total sticker price for those beasts were?  Also...what welder & wire/electrodes did youz use...those welds look awesome!Last edited by jdlev; 01-17-2013 at 11:45 AM.
Reply:Gar, I will never get tired of seeing your table posted.You can always wash your hands.
Reply:jdlev,Here are the price specs:4’ x 3.7’ x 1” plate (Craigslist): $200.00Water jet cut table top to my specs: $365.00 (Initially thought it was $300, but the receipt says $365)Blanchard ground table (both sides): Free.99(Quoted $275.00, but the guy said, "Its on the house brother," when I went to pick it up.)(4) GD100S casters: $208.40Square tube for frame: $175.00 (approx)The table is bolted to: 3.5" x 2.5" tube.The legs are 3" x 3" tube.The cross supports for the legs are: 2.5" x 2.5"Rustoleum Black Heat Resistant BBQ Finish spray paint: $6.84Misc. consumables (grinding discs, wire, gas whatever): $30.00 (rough est.)Total material cost: $985.24 (Total does not include Blanchard grinding)Machine used: Lincoln Electric Power MIG 180 Dual (on 240V) using 75%/ 25% Argon/ CO2 gas, and Lincoln Electric SuperArc L-56 (ER70S-6) .035 wire.Prior to welding: Ground off the mil-scale, wiped with Acetone, and used anti-spatter.Millermatic 252 with 100% CO2 (.035 wire) for the 1/4" plate (support for the casters) on the bottom of the table legs (used while at welding school).**************************************************  *****************************Reallifedog: Thanks brother!GarLast edited by Gar; 01-17-2013 at 05:44 PM.Reason: Added frame specs.Lincoln Electric, Power MIG 256Hypertherm Powermax 45 Miller Dynasty 280DXSmith O/A torchGenesis of a welding table
Reply:I welded the frame up with 3/32" 6013 rod on an older Century/Craftsman AC/DC Transformer machine.  I did all my cuts with a hand held hacksaw.   Did most of the work in an unheated garage in 20 Deg F in the winter in Detroit. (do I add the price of my insulated overalls into the equation?)I bought that 3/4" plate as part of a welding table off of craigslist.  I think I paid $50 or so.  It had four small c-beams for legs, no wheels.    I used that table to make the the frame for the new.  After I completed my frame, I cut the legs off of the other table and used the top.   I think I had around $60 or $70 in 1.5" square tubing & other misc. steel.  Add in $10 or so for fasteners and bottom tap for the blind holes. I had the plywood and paint left over from other projects. Total was around $125 or so?  Oops.. gotta add in the price of the wheels. They were around $12 each I think  So that gets it in the range of $175, total.  Gar, I really like your table.  Very nice work.   Hmmm. I never thought about the pricing of components and materials before.  When I look at how much your stuff costs (including the grinding) it might even make sense (for me) to consider the retail welding work tables (Strong Hand Tools / Forster / Bluco / Miller ) for the next one.  They offer lots of features for hold down, work alignment, etc..  I suspect the retail work tables would hold value well in the used marketplace. (and I'm like a lot of you guys... I don't really need a new table, I just want one.) --ZipLast edited by zipzit; 01-18-2013 at 03:05 AM.
Reply:Thanks Zip.  I hear ya.  I went way over kill on my table.  Its funny how the price adds up when your taking your time to build something for yourself at home. As far as the tables you mentioned, all good tables, but not something I really needed.Forster: Made in Germany: $: likely the same as BlucoBluco: 30% USA made/ 70% Germany: $8000 Stronghand: Made in China ($2600)Miller: Made from Chinese steel, assembled in USA: 3/8" top, 1/8" thick frame, 1.5" square tube. $500-700 (depending on source)I almost purchased a Stronghand Tools welding table.  The deal killer for me was discovering that they are 100% made in China!  I really liked the idea that everything I was going to manufacture would be built using a base that was made in the USA, with USA steel, and was made by "yours truly."  Could I have purchased a similar table that would serve my purposes for a cheaper price, quite simply, not even close.  The table I built was a custom design I put together so I could build the items I desired to manufacture.  It fits in a corner of my garage and is out of the way when I am not using it.  I am happy making things for friends and charging an honest price. Word of mouth travels fast, and when people see the quality of the table I built, they are sold.  I have a job pending to build a stand for a 2500 pound fish tank only because the guy liked the quality of the welding table that he saw me building (a neighbor).Could I manufacture a welding table like mine for someone else? Sure, but it would not be cost effective for a welder to pay me to build them a table like mine.  If I were to do so, the cost of materials alone to reproduce the table I have from all new materials, including paying for the Blanchard grinding ($275) and a new piece of  4’ x 4’ x 1” plate top ($615) would be $1675.  Then there would be the cost of labor.  Figuring gas and travel time to get all the materials together, and the labor to build it, an honest wage would be close to $500-900.  Then there would be shipping cost.  The person purchasing a table like this would have to really desire a truly, “Made in America,” table made by me.  And to be frank, I really have no desire to build welding tables.  Welding for me is something I do to be creative; its fun and I get a kick out of making things.  Its not something I am considering as a means to make a living, not now anyways.  Cheers,GarLincoln Electric, Power MIG 256Hypertherm Powermax 45 Miller Dynasty 280DXSmith O/A torchGenesis of a welding table
Reply:I'm an amateur welder, mainly making functional art but this is the table I designed.  Not sure how useful it would be to people who make heavy duty stuff.  My old table was 4' x 8' and I was constantly getting annoyed at having to move my project around to get at all sides, especially as the project got taller.  Garage is crowded so couldn't get great pics, sorry.The main frame is made from trailer hitch.  There are eight slidng 1/2" topped sections that travel through the trailer hitch, shimmed up at the ends and slop removed.  Each top is 6" wide x 4' long with a 3" gap (was supposed to be 2") between them.  This allows me to clamp anywhere on the table, which was especially important for me.  Each section can push in or pull towards me 17".   To do inside welds I support the project and pull those slats towards me,  The other ones I push away.  Lets me get 34" inside my sculpture (or 17" if I feel it wouldn't be safe to pull outside the leg base).  There are screws on each section that keep it square as well as can lock each slat in place or put pressure.  Each end of the sliding section I also left open with a screw that can clamp in to what I insert there.  Any tool that I think I may use at my table has a base with male part that can slide into these ends.  In the first pic you can see my sheet metal shears in the lower left corner.  Lets me secure my tools in 16 different spots on my table.  They also serve well as a torch holder.Have a 5' power strip zip tied to the bottom of the main frame so I can keep everything plugged in.  Just need to finish putting the "tent" on above the grinders and power strip (sheet metal above them, pitched in the middle, to deflect sparks). Attached Images
Reply:soupcan, very different design, but i like it....
Reply:soupcan, that's a very cool new take on things. I haven't seen anything quite like it. Thanks for sharing it.I'm slowly moving towards building a table, maybe, and just priced out 3/8 x 6" today, but I hadn't considered the sliding slat approach... Very cool.KeithMiller XMT304 CC/CVBernard TIG coolerSSC foot pedal"It's a poor craftsman who blames his tewls toles TOOLS" (!^$#% keyboard)
Reply:Originally Posted by jdlevI've been doing some research on welding tables I have limited space in the garage, so I would probably do something that is 3'x6' on top, and something like 48" tall (I'm 6'3")3) How thick should the plate for the top be?5) I plan on using the top level for welding, a bench grinder, and a heavy duty vise. 6) The lower level will be used for storage, and may hold the welder if I give up the welding cart.8) What recommendations do you guys have for the legs (thickness of some square tubing)?.Any other features I should think about adding that I haven't thought of?